Clutch not disengaging

Well YOU could post what you have. "The angle" in theory is easy. Let's take the upper pushrod coming down to the leg on the z bar. As it moves from "one end to the other," you normally would want the lever on the Z bar to be at 90* to the pushrod IN THE CENTER of the travel. In other words, the extreme "each end" of travel, the lever should be at "equal but opposite" angles to the pushrod.

The same is true of the pushrod on the bottom, to the fork, and the bottom lever. "Same deal."

That may NOT be possible always. But there are other considerations, designed into the factory stuff, that "we" are not aware of. "It just might be" that as the fingers are at the top of their travel, (fully engaged) they take less pressure than when "1/2 way down." Bear in mind these were ORIGINALLY designed, in high performance situations, for a BB cover which had centrifugal weights!!!!

What am I saying? Hell I don't know. But if you don't KNOW that you have each and all the correct factory parts, then you might just have troubles.

Everything is factory and original to the car BUT the transmission. Originally it was a 3 speed. So, the same factory bell housing and linkages. I did replace the rod the goes from the z-bar to the clutch fork. Original clutch fork for the 3 speed too. New throw out bearing and McCleod clutch (diaphragm).

I pretty much transferred everything from the 3 speed to the 4 speed including engine, bell housing, z-bar, ball studs, bushings, etc. The 3 speed tranny and clutch linkage worked well when I had the hooker headers in AND with the Hayes clutch.