I would seriously consider making it "NHRA compliant" even if you never plan to race. Crackedback has a good diagram for the disconnect, which will involve your starter / Ford setup, and I prefer a slightly different means. I use a heavy duty 4 terminal disconnect. They have 2 large and 2 small terminals, known properly as DPST (double pole, single throw) You use the small terminals to kill the ignition system or fuel pump (EFI) relay, and of course the large terminals in the main battery HOT lead
WHAT are you using for an alternator? That one is the old Delco 10/ 12SI of years ago and may not apply to yours. The factory Mopar EFI regulator is contained within the factory computer. So what for alternator, and that will set the wiring and whether or not you need an external voltage regulator
I'm not sure what all the relays? are for? But the main feed to / from the battery for both loads and charging is a no 10 and no 14 fuse link. That is probably too small depending on what all you "have"
Be careful with your main feed to your relays that you do not build a "single point of failure." In other words if one relay circuit has a really bad failure, you don't want to take out the main feed / fuse / or fuse link, leaving you sitting.
The alternator lamp, if that's what you really plan, is not fused. It would be a shame to burn up something and sit there "with nothing" all because of a shorted idiot lamp socket
If you are going to run the main ground "clear up front" I would not ground "the doghouse" at the battery. Rather, run a jumper from the engine block to the body, a BIG jumper, like no4 starter cable.
Stick or auto? What are you planning for neutral safety? "There exists" a Ford look alike solenoid with an extra terminal for that purpose. I'll have to look it up if you need. I can never find it, LOL. Was used on AMC /Jeep for a few years
