Slant six cam

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Slantsix64

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hey guys! bought a 225 motor with a clifford cam already installed by the pervious owner (264 duration 206 @ .050 .474 lift 1.6 ratio) but he used the stock valve springs will that make an issue should i replace them? or leave them? the motor is just going to be a daily driver with a super six set up. I was told the cam would help the motor breath and a two barrel would be good to run on it but a four barrel would be over kill what do you think?
 
I would check the cam in the motor. That sounds like a lot of lift, for that small duration. The stock spring would work with the lift or duration, but if those numbers are correct that cam has a fast lift rate, and the stock springs might not control the valves.
 
I would certainly upgrade the springs'; the stock /6 springs are pretty weak, and have significantly lower spring rates than the comparable era low performance V8 springs. That is the mildest Clifford Hyd cam in their catalog, and their kit lists HD springs with dampers.
 
Kinda depends on your driving style too. As a DD, and if it's an automajic, if you never go past 3500/4000 it might be fine. and with solid lifters at least you don't have to worry about lifter pump up. And if you have flat tops,the likelihood of piston to valve interference is low. So even if the springs do give up, the onset will be noticeable, probably/most likely, without any damage.....................Unless it spits out the locks........uh-oh.................

But if that 6 has hydraulic lifters....OR, if you like to buzz it up...........Better put some springs on it.

Alright, alright, you convinced me; put some springs on it, cuz they're cheap insurance.
 
LA springs work, 340's probably being the heaviest (360/4bbl the same?)
 
Kinda depends on your driving style too. As a DD, and if it's an automajic, if you never go past 3500/4000 it might be fine. and with solid lifters at least you don't have to worry about lifter pump up. And if you have flat tops,the likelihood of piston to valve interference is low. So even if the springs do give up, the onset will be noticeable, probably/most likely, without any damage.....................Unless it spits out the locks........uh-oh.................

But if that 6 has hydraulic lifters....OR, if you like to buzz it up...........Better put some springs on it.

Alright, alright, you convinced me; put some springs on it, cuz they're cheap insurance.
Thanks for the reply yes the owner said it does have solid lifters and it does have flat top pistons installed he said that would boost compression as well he told me i would be fine unless i am redlining or reving the crap out of the motor it is a automatic car right now
 
the valves are smaller so the weights are lighter for the springs to control ,but should get camshaft maker recommend, also were the guides cut down ,there's not much room for a seal in there with that lift ,the last one I did would only clear .430 without a seal so I cut .100 off each guild for a .430 cam.
 
oh okay so used one would fine? unless they are broken would a 318 be fine because i find those alot.
Used springs may or may not be OK. They can get weak from use.

Stock /6 spring rate is around 250 lbs/inch. Any spring with a wire diameter of around .19" will be the same, so you have to go up to about .20" wire diameter got get any stiffer spring with a single spring. And, you have to look at coil bind height for this cam since the lift is a good bit higher than stock (at least compared to the early /6's). The 340 springs do that but it is a dual spring. Sealed Power VS-678 may do it too, but check the OD to check fit. At $4 per spring, it is also a dual. (Not sure what you end up with if you pull out the inner.....)

BTW, the stock piston is a flat top.... so the CR will only be higher if the head or block was shaved.
 
Where did the 1.6 rockers come from?
 
Clifford lists this cam as a kit with the .474" lift for 1.6 rocker ratios......if the HD springs are not in there, it is questionable on any such rockers for sure.....good catch.
 
Right!,lol, that is why the lift spec seems high for the dur.,that is
theoretical based on design lift plus a 98% nobody's running 1.6 rocker.Divide by 1.6 and multiply by 1.5,subtract your valve lash,and your lucky to get the above mentioned .430 lift.
Springs are relatively cheap for what they do for you,get a new set
for crying out loud,LA SB,slanty,and w/a retainer/keeper swap 2.2/2.5 4cyls all use the same
series spring ht. I personally ran a crane blazerII in a 318 w/stock springs,and it ran great,
but the valve float cut the top end off around 5600,still I beat the snot out of it and never
had a problem.If your not planning any radical upgrades,the 318 springs are a step up,so if
you insist on used that's your choice.Have them checked and go.
You can probably find a set of 340 HP springs(red single w/damper)
inexpensive,and that would allow you plenty of upgrade "room", OE part#2863439,and the
Direct connection/MP part#P4120249 -same spring.
 
Right!,lol, that is why the lift spec seems high for the dur.,that is
theoretical based on design lift plus a 98% nobody's running 1.6 rocker.Divide by 1.6 and multiply by 1.5,subtract your valve lash,and your lucky to get the above mentioned .430 lift.
Springs are relatively cheap for what they do for you,get a new set
for crying out loud,LA SB,slanty,and w/a retainer/keeper swap 2.2/2.5 4cyls all use the same
series spring ht. I personally ran a crane blazerII in a 318 w/stock springs,and it ran great,
but the valve float cut the top end off around 5600,still I beat the snot out of it and never
had a problem.If your not planning any radical upgrades,the 318 springs are a step up,so if
you insist on used that's your choice.Have them checked and go.
You can probably find a set of 340 HP springs(red single w/damper)
inexpensive,and that would allow you plenty of upgrade "room", OE part#2863439,and the
Direct connection/MP part#P4120249 -same spring.
Cool thanks for all the response im just going to grab some 340 springs on ebay Thanks again for the input
 
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