The OP has only $800-1000 to work with and realistically 5 months maximum. He needs suggestions that will help him in this budget and time frame. This is limiting and will put him on a path that is likely to be suboptimal if he were starting from scratch and going for max HP, but it is what it is. He has his whole life to do it again and better, and ANY build will be good learning!
- Other heads are out unless it is the 302's but he has the 360 heads already bought
- Magnum conversion is very probably out due to the budget limits
- New pistons are out due to budget and time, so getting to a higher CR is only going to happen if he moves over to the 302 heads or shaves the 360 heads
- Not likely going to be able to do a new torque converter on this budget to support other mods. So high revving, large duration cams are out.
- He MIGHT be able to change rear gears IF he has the support from his grandpa or someone else to get it done cheaply; he does not have the budget to have it professionally done. better valve springs go hand in hand with a higher rear gear, so that is a cost of the higher rear gear; the 2 together can buy a lot.
- SureGrip is probably out due to budget unless he just gets lucky shopping around. With out this, going too high on the rear gear is a mistake as it will just be spinning all over the place. But it WILL do great burnouts on one side! Keep the rear gear in the moderate range.
- Being the 'fastest in the parking lot' depends....not necessarily going to happen on this budget. And 300 HP is likely out of the budget here. So just be aware of that, OP.
OP do you have someone to help you do a rear gear change? That can buy you a lot for the $$ IF it can be done by you and your grandpa in his shop. (Which I am assuming he has.) Do you know the rear gear ratio in your car now?
OP, do you have any access to other heads like the 302 heads? Do you have any decent junkyards around? (And we are not talking about Ford or Chevy 302 heads but small block Mopar 302 heads!)
I can see a coupla paths that I would do here:
1) 302 heads if he can find some cheap and sell off the 360 heads. Get a high quality multi-angle valve job with a deep angle cut right under the seats to open them up there. If he is skilled enough and so inclined, he can do some basic porting with some help. This will be a better CR combo and keep the rear gear if it is not too low, and a moderate cam. This makes it a lower RPM, better torque engine, and should work OK with the stock TC. Use a moderate cam like the Voodoo 262 duration with new dual valve springs. Throw in a rear gear in the 3.55 range if that is in the budget and scope of abilities.
2) Use the 360 heads with the same good valve work, and mill them maybe .050-.060" with a matching cut on the intake side. Will help the CR and get the cc's down in the mid 60's range. Make up for the larger ports with 256 duration, gobs 'o torque type of cam. (Like the Crower Baja Beast.) Keep the stock TC. The larger intake and headers will do a lot more than people think to make up for the lower duration cam on the high RPM's. But he will need better valve springs for any higher RPM's. Do the rear gear if in the budget and scope.
OP, with either option above, the tuning for ignition timing is critical. It is tedious but is critical and very important to do.
OP, since you will be using a flat tappet cam for budget reasons, it is 100% important for you to read up on using the proper break-in oils and procedures and the oils you use for regular running. The proper levels of Zinc additives need to be there.
Best of luck with this!
