906 head porting

Every time the topic porting iron heads come up it gets side tracked into a get your wallet out aluminum head discussion.
It cost nothing but a little time for a guy that can run a burr or stone. The gains are well worth
the efforts.
Even if you have never done this before you can send away for templates from Mopar
to get you familiar with where to remove metal.
For the most part a good gasket match and unshrouding the valve will get you the biggest
gains. Stay off the short side of the port. Leave the intake ports with a slightly rough finish
to break up fuel droplet's. Exhaust ports can be polished smooth if you wish and advised
if nunning a blower. The valve job is important to making all your grinding efforts worth while.
Your machine shop should know to back cut the valves.
It don't take much work to run with the standard port aluminum heads and they can be made
to flow more with some porting experience.
Used to be it was just something you did or you got beat by the guy who did.

Do you have access to a flow bench?

I ask because I do, along with a full machine shop, and I'll be damned if can make iron heads flow with standard port aluminum heads "without much work."

I'm going pretty balls out with a set of 452's right now. Why? Because I'm bored and curious. And I have a devious scheme for a sleeper car with iron heads. I'm talking 2.19" inch, 7mm stem titanium intakes with a 55 degree seat, stuff that is unacceptable for a street car, and I will tell you, it's going to be bloody hard work coming near what you get with out of the box aluminum heads, be they 440 source , E-brock or whatever.

FWIW, opening up the valve seats for a 2.19" 55 degree seat, a 75 degree bowl cut and blending that into the bowl achieved flows of approx 235at .500, 255cfm at .600 lift. I'll post more, possibly in a month or two, as I'm having fixturing made to consistently and positively locate the head on the flow bench. S/F....Ken M