Decent handling susp setup?

225's won't cut it. 245s is the place to start. Unfortunately to fit them with 15s onto the car is very difficult. These require 8 inch rims.There is just not enough room on the lowered front to center those 15s between the BJs and the fenders, without cutting the fenders, or banging into the BJs. The rims will have to be tucked as close as possible to the BJ, and then after the tire is on, the fender will need to be cut so that you can turn. Then the tire will want to rub on the frame rails at the rear edges, so the stops may have to be built up. If you are not willing to go this far, the 235s will work on 7 inch rims. But the selection of sticky 235s seems to be history. So then it doesn't matter if you put 15s or 14s on the front, cuz you are tire-limited right from the get-go.
My solution for this, was to slow down early.
Yes, I have the 1.03s and the big Hellwig, and de-arched HD rear springs,lowered, etc,etc. But since I,too,am tire-limited, I depend on my brakes a lot. I charge UP TO the corner, slam on the brakes, and power-slide the back around while the front drifts hopelessly wide. This is not the fast way around the course, but it sure is fun!
So if you are into fun, try to get 235s on there at the least. You need the rubber for braking;if for no other reason! And get some performance pads with fresh or freshened rotors.And those brakes better be tuned for progressive,predictable,stable,performance; cuz they better be controllable when the time comes. That means you may be playing with bore sizes of the Master cylinder and rear wheel cylinders.I chose a 15/16 M/C cuz it gives me lots of pedal-travel to modulate with. And if I panic-brake I won't get whiplash in the first 2 inches of pedal travel. I also run the teflon lined front hoses, cuz they transmit the pedal-force right-now.I also run 295s in the back with 10 x 2s and large w/cs, and no proportioning valve; all to help with slowing down.
Or you can slow down early......NOT. heehee