68 Barracuda aftermarket tachometer

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MrJLR

MrJLR

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Wondering what models people are using for 67-69 Barracuda tachometer replacement?
I think it's 2 5/8" diameter - yes?

Also what about mounting issues?

Jeff
 
Not quite. I've seen the carnage of some aftermarket tach attempts in the rally bezel. Remember, instruments have a depth also.
 
RedFish said:
Not quite. I've seen the carnage of some aftermarket tach attempts in the rally bezel. Remember, instruments have a depth also.
Click to expand...

Ya...carnage is the LAST thing I want. ..!
48 year old dash.....I wanna be gentle.
Any recommendations on model that works best?
 
The one suggested above from Year One. Replacement tachs for the a-body rally panel were once only found at Year One. Today there are other vendors, Classic Industries maybe ? Those could very well be the same mfgr. Special instruments having limited application market aren't commonly produced. Google mopar a-body rally tachometer.
 
RedFish said:
The one shown above. Replacement tachs for the a-body rally panel were once only found at Year One. Today there are other vendors, Classic Industries maybe ? Those could very well be the same mfgr. Special instruments having limited application market aren't commonly produced.
Click to expand...

Ya....not common at all...
I guess a couple calls to yearone and classic are in order.....

I appreciate the help and advice
 
I been looking pretty hard at these too. Classic industries has then for $199 each. I think year one sells them for $245

I have a 67 cluster, and cant decide on the 67 style tach or the 68/69 sidewinder style tach. The 68/69 style is decidedly cooler looking, but the 67 style fits in better numeral wise with my stock speedometer. I like them both for different reasons.

I will likely make a final decision when classic industries has a sale, and i will pick one then, and that will be that.

Matt
 
The one that Classic Industries and others sell is made for the instrument cluster with the correct mounting bracket. I think it is made by Charger Specialties. This will probably fit better than just any 2-5/8" tach. It is 0-8000 RPM and would have newer electronics which is an advantage for different type of ignition systems.

I personally liked the look of original '67 much better and waited until I found one. The original only goes to 6000 RPM. I've also seen where people said that the older original tachs need to be recalibrated.

Of course after I paid too much for mine, one came on eBay for a lot less -- but that's another story.
 
MrJLR said:
Wondering what models people are using for 67-69 Barracuda tachometer replacement?
I think it's 2 5/8" diameter - yes?

Also what about mounting issues?

Jeff
Click to expand...

Had a vacuuming gauge in my 67 coupe & convertible and factory tach in my 67 Formula S

If you want it for looks the tach looks cool

If you want to use it not as easy to see as larger tach mounted on steering column
 
WildCat said:
Had a vacuuming gauge in my 67 coupe & convertible and factory tach in my 67 Formula S

If you want it for looks the tach looks cool

If you want to use it not as easy to see as larger tach mounted on steering column
Click to expand...

The car is an automatic but I like a tach to know how many RPM I'm running on the highway etc.....

I'm not a fan of a tach on the column. .....I like a more original appearance. ....
 
WildCat said:
Had a vacuuming gauge in my 67 coupe & convertible and factory tach in my 67 Formula S

If you want it for looks the tach looks cool

If you want to use it not as easy to see as larger tach mounted on steering column
Click to expand...

Mine has the factory vacuum gauge and a small Autometer tach on the column
 

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One more question. .....
The wiring diagram shows 2 wires...one to the dizzy and one to the fuse block. But my original tach has 3 wires. I think red, black and green.

I would consider sending my original tach out for restoration. ....who's a good source for this?

Lol....I guess that was two questions!
 
Best to ignore wire color since they could be moved.
The original tach has only 2 insulated studs for wire connections. The shorter stud is sender so that wire goes to tach. Longer stud is the 12 volt supply, goes to fuse box. Adding a chassis ground wire to the tach is a very good move. I always add that to the lower one of the 3 mounting screws.
 
RedFish said:
Best to ignore wire color since they could be moved.
The original tach has only 2 insulated studs for wire connections. The shorter stud is sender so that wire goes to tach. Longer stud is the 12 volt supply, goes to fuse box. Adding a chassis ground wire to the tach is a very good move. I always add that to the lower one of the 3 mounting screws.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip on the ground Redfish. I ordered the '67 faced one from Year One last night because of the 30% off sale. The total came to $185.03 including shipping and insurance. The Discount Code was "meal".
 
jbc426 said:
Thanks for the tip on the ground Redfish. I ordered the '67 faced one from Year One last night because of the 30% off sale. The total came to $185.03 including shipping and insurance. The Discount Code was "meal".
Click to expand...

Wise choice. The stock tachs were sluggish in movement, limited to 6k rpm, and easy to kill with some of the aftermarket ignition systems.
 
I wish I could offer more specifics, but it’s been a number of years since I went down the road of ralley cluster tach rebuild vs the aftermarket option.
My first ralley tach replacement was in a 71 Duster. I sent an original factory tach out and had it rebuilt & calibrated. I wish I could recall where I sent it, but it’s been to long ago. It has performed flawlessly.
My second ralley dash tach replacement was an aftermarket tach purchased through Classic Auto Industries . Not so flawless. The needle has stuck on occasion. I don’t know if Year One & Classic Auto use the same mfg. But, I will say, I’ve experienced more problems with Classic Auto aftermarket parts where I haven’t experienced any issues with Year One aftermarket products. Maybe luck, maybe not?

On another note. When purchasing certain parts that require highest quality and precision I’ve found Laysons the best supplier. They do tend to be more expensive, but their products in my experience fit and work like original Mopar parts.
Maybe others can support or will differ with what I’ve experienced. I welcome the feedback.
 
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