My stroker build thread

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younggun2.0

younggun2.0

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I am starting my new low deck stroker build! I finally found a decent block. It is a 76 casting and the wall sonic checked pretty good. It is virgin bore. I got the block washed and magna fluxed. It was crack free so I took the block home and cleaned up all the casting flash.














 
The plan was always 470" kit from muscle motors with 3.91 stroke crank with 2.20 Chevy rod journals. But I have several folks telling me I should go up to the 511" kit. It also uses the smaller Chevy rid journals but is 4.25 stroke.

I have a set of the new trick flow heads ready to go. I plan to run a solid roller cam with .600 lift, 260 @ .050 duration. Eddy performer rpm intake and run pump gas. Would like to keep internal oiling.

Looking to make 600-650hp and run low 10's in my dart. Bottom end will be stock main caps and studs.
 
Similar to my build cept 248/254 @.050 with 1.6 rocker arms .I ordered trick flows 2 days ago
 
younggun2.0 said:
The plan was always 470" kit from muscle motors with 3.91 stroke crank with 2.20 Chevy rod journals. But I have several folks telling me I should go up to the 511" kit. It also uses the smaller Chevy rid journals but is 4.25 stroke.

I have a set of the new trick flow heads ready to go. I plan to run a solid roller cam with .600 lift, 260 @ .050 duration. Eddy performer rpm intake and run pump gas. Would like to keep internal oiling.

Looking to make 600-650hp and run low 10's in my dart. Bottom end will be stock main caps and studs.
Click to expand...

My 470 is making more than 650 hp with a set of Trick Flow heads. I'm at 10.5 compression ratio. I don't think you want to run a Performer RPM past 600 hp. You'll have distribution issues which can hurt the engine. At that power level you'll want to be single plane.
 

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AndyF said:
My 470 is making more than 650 hp with a set of Trick Flow heads. I'm at 10.5 compression ratio. I don't think you want to run a Performer RPM past 600 hp. You'll have distribution issues which can hurt the engine. At that power level you'll want to be single plane.
Click to expand...

What intake would you recommend for street strip? What are your cam spec? Did you do a stud girdle? Can I expect my bottom end to survive at 650hp with stock caps and studs alone?
 
fratzog lover said:
Is this to replace the 383?
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Yup!

I will be bolting my trick flow heads onto the 383 and seeing what it can do start of this next season. I will be building the new stroker in the mean time. Then soon as the short block is done I will swap all the top end stuff from 383 to the new short block. That's the plan anyways. My trans is still hurt from last time out to the track though.
 
younggun2.0 said:
The plan was always 470" kit from muscle motors with 3.91 stroke crank with 2.20 Chevy rod journals. But I have several folks telling me I should go up to the 511" kit. It also uses the smaller Chevy rid journals but is 4.25 stroke.
Click to expand...

just for info

A 4.5" stroke crank with 2.20 rod journals
can still use internal oil pickup

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tsi is who you want the trans built by they are by joiliett Ill . never seen a tougher trans with a 3 year garentee
wow now thats a car i need to TRY IT ALL My brother in law just sold his cloned Super Bee , it had a pro built 440 was like a 571 825 hp at the rear with a tsi trans ,We went to try a few runs at byron speedway . the first run was 11.02 but he said it shook like hell,the second run the car looked like it was riding sideways up to the line , he tached it up and hammerd it ,we got vidio( the wheels never spun) it hooked hard , he shut it down , wegotit back to the workstation and looked underneith and it bent the cal-tracs , ripped the perches off the rear end and put 1 1/2 inch twist in the drive shaft . All he could say was phuk me MICKEY in the vidio you can see the car twisting but those Mickey Thompsons just wrinkled a little bit and launched they hooked so hard they never spun even 1/4 turn . never hurt the tranny but from the shaft back was carnige.
3300.00 in damage 400.00 in beer lol he just sold the car for 39k and bought a new camero with a turbo 12 Mopars later.
I"m wishing for the 650 hp small block with lots of nitrous but will settle for 550 hp and a 200 shot Can I borrow your small block for a month lol. gl with your ride
 
younggun2.0 said:
What intake would you recommend for street strip? What are your cam spec? Did you do a stud girdle? Can I expect my bottom end to survive at 650hp with stock caps and studs alone?
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The bottom end will survive for a while at 650 hp. Maybe several years, maybe longer. Just depends on how good the tune up is and how hard you beat on it. If the machine work is done correctly and you have good oil pressure and you never beat on it until the engine is warm (oil temp is 160+) then the bottom end should last a long time. If you're the kind of guy who fires the car up in the morning and does a burnout in the driveway when the oil is cold then the bottom end won't last very long at all.

For street driving use the Performer RPM. For drag racing switch over to a Victor 383 or a Mopar 4500 M1 with an adapter. It only takes a few minutes to swap intakes if you prep the bathtub gasket correctly.
 
Ahhh, the old stock block won't handle it worry. Tons of guys making 800hp on these stock blocks and they are just fine. Good machine work, a girdle and a good tune up and you won't have any problems.
 
I'd go with the m1, victor, or when trick flow releases their new intake. My dads motor uses a victor intake and everything seems to work fine,street and track. its hard to tell if it lost low rpm torque with a 5000 converter though
 
junior636 said:
Ahhh, the old stock block won't handle it worry. Tons of guys making 800hp on these stock blocks and they are just fine. Good machine work, a girdle and a good tune up and you won't have any problems.
Click to expand...

Yep got a friend running 5.30 in the eighth 511 cid on alky
 
Bigdummy said:
Yep got a friend running 5.30 in the eighth 511 cid on alky
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I'm more concerned with the street/strip aspect. I plan to put miles on this engine. I will be driving to and from the track. Around town, work and back etc. I just don't want to build a ticking time bomb. If that means lowering my performance expectations so be it.
 
younggun2.0 said:
I'm more concerned with the street/strip aspect. I plan to put miles on this engine. I will be driving to and from the track. Around town, work and back etc. I just don't want to build a ticking time bomb. If that means lowering my performance expectations so be it.
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There is a member here 440dartsport I think is his screen name and he had a 750hp street strip deal on the stock block, he said after 3 years everything looked great inside. They took it apart because he broke the flat tappet cam....
 
junior636 said:
There is a member here 440dartsport I think is his screen name and he had a 750hp street strip deal on the stock block, he said after 3 years everything looked great inside. They took it apart because he broke the flat tappet cam....
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That's good to hear. My thinking is that I will be turning a much lighter rotating assembly with a competition level balance job so it should be easier on the internals.
 
Ok guys I think I am going the 470" route. It's going to make more power then I need. I have heard great things about Molner cranks. What do you guys feel about the Molner 3.91 stroke crank part# 383-3910nc6f?

Then where do I find the correct 6.70 rods? I need them with the 2.20 big end and .990 pin but with Mopar big end width.

[ame="http://s370.photobucket.com/user/johnnydart_photo/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsrhjzrm1s.png.html"]image_zpsrhjzrm1s.png Photo by johnnydart_photo | Photobucket[/ame]
 
I did a spread sheet on all the stroke rod combos for low decks with the piston comp heights. I will list the for you tomorrow to help you get the correct rod for an off the self piston. Then you can call Tom and ask him.
the rods you are trying to find will be in the bb chevy section on his site.
 
The numbers second in from far right is the piston comp height. The far right number is rod ratio.
the top left number is the stroke. Numbers taken with 9.980 deck.
 

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Dependent on the weight of your car, 550 hp would get you into mid 10's, a heavy A body would need nearer 600 hp.
440 in my sig is around 3150# race ready and close to 600 hp, it's gone 10.14 at 132.88 mph with a wheel spinning 1.47 60ft.
Mick
 
I'm interested to see how those heads do on your 383... Since I'm going that rout myself.

But to your striker I say go for it, my uncle had a 472 from a muscle motors kit that was 13.5:1 with stage VI heads and a 650 flat rapper cam that went 10.40s all day in a 3600lb belvedere, he ran that motor for about 5 years and when he sold it the bearings looked like he just built it. That motor didn't have a stud girdle or anything. A 6-700 hp big block will go for a long time as long as it has good oil pressure and keep the rpm reasonable
 
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