freshen up tired original paint 68 barracuda...

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Chryslerkid

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Hi everyone,

I have a 68 barracuda with original gold paint. The paint is old and faded but i wonder if there are any methods/techniques on how i can freshen it up without repainting. There are also several small spots with surface rust and I wonder if I can sand them down and touch them up as well? I'll be the first to admit that although i am not afraid of getting my hands dirty, i know absolutely nothing about paint and body work. Any tips or suggestions on how to clean this original paint job to show better? Thanks!
 
I would suggest some type of cleaner compound. Meguiars makes a cleaner wax that works well. Follow that up with a regular polish wax.
 
I would suggest some type of cleaner compound. Meguiars makes a cleaner wax that works well. Follow that up with a regular polish wax.

x2 plus
Use the cleaner wax with a 3M foam pad on a low speed buffer. Wash entire car and apply good quality wax or poly sealant.
 
that sounds very doable. generally speaking, will small surface rust spots buff out as well or do they require additional help before using the cleaning agent?
 
Use the least aggressive product that gets the job done. If you break through the top "skin" of the paint it will create light and dark spots and look worse then had you left it alone. Rust , if not perforated, would need cleaned, treated, maybe a skim coat, primed etc. And that area usually becomes much larger when you dig into it.
 
Find a nice shady spot and wash the car with Comet in the green can. The can that says won't scratch delicate surfaces. Use a terry cloth rag, sprinkle the comet on the rag and use a circular motion on a 2 or 3 foot square area. Wash the chrome, rubber, glass and paint and rinse thoroughly as you go.

Once done washing twice, add a half cup of kerosene to 3 gallons of warm water and rinse the car with it. Wipe it down thoroughly with a soft dry terry cloth towel.

It will look like someone spent hours polishing and buffing the car. This whole process should take you and hour or two at the most. Just don't put the Comet directly on the paint. Sprinkle it on the rag.

Learned this over 3 decades ago from an old timer. Been washing my '68 like this for over a decade and it still looks amazing. Don't use it on dark colored cars.

Leave the rust spots and such alone. It's called patina, and adds to the original paint look. Some folks even attempt to create it using paint and other techniques.
 

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Yeah the comet thing does work. My 78 wagoneer was a real rot box. Paint was dead flat. Was shot with a paint ball gun many years ago. I repaired the rot. Painted the panels, and scrubbed the entire truck with comet an the finest steel wool I could get. I then compounded,polished, and waxed It. Looked unbelievable compared to when I got it. My duster I did the same but no steel wool. If the paint is thick enough you can work wonders. For the rust, after cleaning it all up, but before wax I would touch up those areas with clear "chassis saver". I think that's the name. It's pretty much same thing as por15 but I know it comes in clear.
 
not sure which route is a better option for me cleaning agent and wax or comet...? hmmm. how can i tell if the original paint is to thin to work with?
 
not sure which route is a better option for me cleaning agent and wax or comet...? hmmm. how can i tell if the original paint is to thin to work with?

You can get a paint depth gauge that'll tell you exactly how much paint you have to work with. They can be expensive though.

In recent years, detailing has come a long ways. There are many ways to skin this cat but what I would do is take the approach that a professional detailer would. Wash the car thoroughly by hand, go over it with a clay car to remove ASBC's (Above Surface Bonded Contaminants, aka the junk imbedded in the paint which you can feel but not see), wipe down the car with a 50/50 mix of isopropyl alcohol and water to help remove any oils that may be left behind, and then polish the paint. When you're done, put a proper coat of wax on it and use proper wash techniques so you keep the paint in tip-top condition. You can try a million old school ways to bring the paint back or you can just do what needs to be done which is remove the dead paint and scratches by polishing to reveal the fresh paint underneath.

What you want to use is a dual action polisher (Like the Porter Cable 7424xp, Griot's Garage 6", or Torq 10FX which is what I have), not a rotary, and not a wax spreader (Often referred to as a buffer, usually looks like a big sander with a wool pad or a bonnet). Polishing by hand will take an eternity and you will get better results with a machine anyways. A rotary will burn through paint much easier and will leave behind swirls that will need to be removed with a DA polisher. With DA polishers you've got random orbital (The ones I listed above) and forced rotation (Like the FLEX XC3401), the random orbital is your best bet because it won't burn through paint and a forced rotation polisher will. Both types of DA have the same pattern except the FLEX mechanically forces the pad to rotate, with a random orbital you can freely spin the pad and it rotates on it's own as the machine oscillates. They really are fool proof, if you put the DA on an edge and press down it'll just stop spinning the pad and it'll just vibrate around not causing damage. You can pick up a cheap DA at Harbor Freight but i'd invest in some quality pads(I use Hex Logic pads but Lake Country makes some of the best on the market). If your paint is single stage I think you could get away with not compounding (More abrasive, removes more paint), and only polishing. Clear coats are harder and require more aggressive means of correction. Also, when you're claying it's very important to have a lot of lubricity between the paint and clay. You can use soapy water as clay lube, you can buy dedicated clay lube, or you can mix your own like I do (I put half a cap of Optimum No Rinse in a 16oz spray bottle of distilled water, works great).

Tools and supplies needed:
-Stuff to wash the car
-Detailing clay
-50/50 Isopropyl alcohol/water mix
-Random Orbital DA polisher (I'd go for the Porter Cable 7424xp, or Griot's with a lifetime warranty)
-Polishing pads (Two heavy, two medium, two light, and a wax pad)
-Polish (For a compound I'd go with Meguiar's M105, and for a Polish M205)
-Quality Microfiber towels (I'd start at The Rag Company- they have nice towels)
-Good wax (I recommend Collinite 845, it's absolutely fantastic stuff and it's affordable)
-Patience, this takes a while but it's worth it.

As if that wall of text wasn't enough, here's a video too. Larry Kosilla is one of the best detailers in the business and he knows his stuff. His channel (AMMO NYC) is worth checking out if you want to learn how to make old paint look new again and want to keep it looking new. This Porsche was in rough shape and you can see the difference he made. You can do the same with a little patience. [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hikW5GwRGW8"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hikW5GwRGW8[/ame]


I know all that's a lot to take in at once but I guarantee you that you will get the best possible results by polishing the paint correctly. One of the great things about taking this path is that when you're done you'll have a DA polisher that can be used to do everything from applying and removing wax, to cleaning carpets and upholstery. It's one of the most versatile and critical tools in a detailer's arsenal. I used my polisher to wax a Ford Raptor in about 20 mins.

Hopefully that was at least a little bit helpful. It may sound like a lot of work, and it is, but you will not get better results than by polishing. I'll promise you that.
 
Do a small test sample down low on the car.

Definitely. My go-to test spot is the rear passenger quarter panel. Always working from least aggressive to more aggressive till ya find the right pad/polish combination to get the job done while leaving as much paint on the car as possible.

It's all about finding the right balance between defect removal and paint preservation.
 
Find a nice shady spot and wash the car with Comet in the green can. The can that says won't scratch delicate surfaces. Use a terry cloth rag, sprinkle the comet on the rag and use a circular motion on a 2 or 3 foot square area. Wash the chrome, rubber, glass and paint and rinse thoroughly as you go.

Once done washing twice, add a half cup of kerosene to 3 gallons of warm water and rinse the car with it. Wipe it down thoroughly with a soft dry terry cloth towel.

It will look like someone spent hours polishing and buffing the car. This whole process should take you and hour or two at the most. Just don't put the Comet directly on the paint. Sprinkle it on the rag.

Learned this over 3 decades ago from an old timer. Been washing my '68 like this for over a decade and it still looks amazing. Don't use it on dark colored cars.

Leave the rust spots and such alone. It's called patina, and adds to the original paint look. Some folks even attempt to create it using paint and other techniques.

Haven't seen or heard that in a whole lot of years. We used to do what we called a compound bath, Wash mit , water hose, compound on mit and wash the car.Worked great, but that was before compound was $35 a quart.
 
lots of great information. that video was super helpful as well. how much would one of those electric detailing tools cost? seems to be worth it if i am going to re condition my old paint.
 
lots of great information. that video was super helpful as well. how much would one of those electric detailing tools cost? seems to be worth it if i am going to re condition my old paint.

Considering what you get out of them, they are pretty affordable. You'll spend less buying the tools than you would spend paying a detailer to do it for you. http://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-buffer-value-kit.html

This is a good machine. It comes with the backing plate you need, a few pads, and a few microfiber towels as well. Thats most of what you need to get started. You'd just need to get a couple more things and you'd be ready to go.
 
looked at the tool through the link above. it looks good. i may try to hint for the tool for the holidays. thanks for all the help.
 
I would suggest some type of cleaner compound. Meguiars makes a cleaner wax that works well. Follow that up with a regular polish wax.

Got two bottles of the cleaner/wax here and it works great by hand, but a lot easier with a polisher.

This is the original paint and it looked just like the Barracuda paint before the cleaner/wax and an hour or less with an orbital buffer.
 

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Yup. I always recommend Meguiars because it is all natural. It is very mild. The cleaner wax does have a very mild abrasive in it, but it is perfect for old, thin paint.

I use the regular Meguiars polish wax to polish my artificial eye and it does not irritate anything at all. That's how mild it is and it works good.
 
Got two bottles of the cleaner/wax here and it works great by hand, but a lot easier with a polisher.

This is the original paint and it looked just like the Barracuda paint before the cleaner/wax and an hour or less with an orbital buffer.

beak.
 
Wow that looks good! Was that original paint or an aftermarket paint job Trailbeast?

Haha I just re read the post and answered my own question lol. Durrrr!
 
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