Oil pan leak

Bud it REALLY depends on your set up! As it sounds like OP car is mostly stock, you are probably right.. but on mine with the TTi's - not a chance in hell. It was so much easier to just pop out the motor that the two methods aren't even related.. so to speak. I had to move both the drivers side and pass. side header out of the way - as in fully disconnect from engine and exhaust system, had to drop the center link (which wasn't easy as the pan was in the way.. I tried to swing it to one side... yeah.. no) had to lift the motor as high as the trans tunnel would allow and the pan was still a f-er to get out because of the pickup... I am talking close tolerance! Then putting the one piece gasket in was SUCH a miserable pain in my f-ing *** - - never EVER EVER again. And of course after putting it all back together (the NEW pan did NOT want to go back in past the pick up) - the GD thing still leaked - albeit in a different place.. anyway, long story shot (well, too late for that now...) the next weekend, out came the motor.. the end.

jbc426 said

Wow, there's no way I would go through all the extra work of pulling the motor or dropping the K-member to change the pan gaskets. Each car and pan set-up is different, but it wasn't that difficult to accomplish with the motor lifted up a bit. It only took about 4 hours to do, 3 to take it apart, figure out I had the wrong gasket on there(I incorrectly used the one-piece Magnum gasket) and an hour to button everything up. I figure double or triple that time to pull the motor or drop the k-member and realign it.

The trick seams to be gluing the front and sides of the gasket onto the pan and the rear gasket onto the motor with your favorite sealant. that way they stay put when you are reinstalling the pan. Mine took about 30 minutes to tack-up and to stay put enough to keep the in place, while still remaining soft enough to mold properly when tightened.

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