cooling
Do they really pull 2000 cfm or are they 'rated' at 2000 cfm? If 'rated', you might be shocked to see to how low the actual flow drops with any amount of pressure drop; there is always significant pressure drop through a rad so fan blade design has a big influence in auto cooling systems. Can you share the fan models and makes?
IMO, running less than 180F will likely cause less longevity. The internals may not be getting to full temp and proper expansion, and oil cleaning needs some heat.
Agreed. Take any ducted fan and let it work in open air, then restrict the intake side, and see the difference.
I've been running my 360 at VERY HOT (very scientific, I know) for 16 years/125,000miles. The stat is a late operating 195. The IR gun reports a minimum running temp of 205.She likes it. Mind you, my engine is about 70hp less than yours. But around town,or stopped, that means very little. Mine has run 11.2Scr with exactly the same results; no problem.
I can't tell you what the exact temperature varies to, (or for that matter;what the actual oil pressure is), cuz I'm such a tightwad that I'm still running the factory rally cluster with the ssslow needles, and no calibration. Fancy gauges to me are just one more thing to worry about.
Ok, so.............. I do have a tach,tho.
My rad is an 26"A/C unit from a 73 teener-Dart.It's pushing 43 years old and well over 250,000 miles.
FWIW; you couldn't pay me to run electrics. I have enough torque to annihilate the 295s to somewhere near the top of second gear.(3.55s). I can break them loose at 50mph in the same gear. She went 93 in the 1/8th and the start-line workers were reporting tiresmoke with 325/50DRs all the way down the track. I know, I know, street suspension. Nice soft speed-bump eating springs.
I totally don't care about any lost horsepower to the big 7-blade fan.....
