Lead acid batteries

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inkjunkie

inkjunkie

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Why are these pile-o-crap batteries even produced anymore? Sure they are less $$ than an AGM battery. Bought a lead acid battery for my yard truck. 2 years later it went south. Not denying that an Optima is more $$ but have yet to have one last less than 8 years. Last one I replaced was almost ten years old....
 
The AGM types really don't retail for all "that much" more. The gap gets really close if you compare premium lead acid batteries to the AGM.
 
You do realize AGM is still lead acid, just a little different packaging...
I've seen AGM last 6 months on occasion, and up to about 8years on bikes (saw both extremes with the same bike, same brand battery).
The "regular" lead acid in my Dart just died, date sticker on it? September 2007.
 
If you go AGM, you don't have to shell out for Optima. Autozone carries many AGM cheaper as their Platinum line. I have kept buying the regular lead-acid, but AZ's gold-top w/ better warranty. That turned out well because I had a spate of bad batteries lately, some failing to hold a charge after a few months. That is various vehicles, so probably "not me".
 
how many folks that have "bad batteries" take the steps to routinely desulfate their SLA batteries?

IMO it won't be much longer until lithium irom phosphate batteries are fully established for auto use. I have one in my moto(Shorai) and it crushes the SLA in every way.

Battery tech is a game changer for everything these days. It's the stumbling block for many emerging technologies..
 
inkjunkie said:
Why are these pile-o-crap batteries even produced anymore? Sure they are less $$ than an AGM battery. Bought a lead acid battery for my yard truck. 2 years later it went south. Not denying that an Optima is more $$ but have yet to have one last less than 8 years. Last one I replaced was almost ten years old....
Click to expand...

Doug,my opine ( did retail parts 25 years, what a P.I.T.A..): most companies sell J.C.I.( Johnson Controls International).. That would be Auto zone/Carquest/Wally World/ Sears... They also bought Optima,some time back.The one battery I sold ( & personally used & liked ..) was a universal
optima style battery,similar to the Optima Red Top. You mentioned problems before,with the Harley batteries. Is this the issue, or is it the Ford diesel?..( In reference to my first sentence of this crappy statement: Retail battery prices have risen 20-30%, in the last three years..& the warranty has been shorted back.) My information, use it if you can...
 
I just bought a 24 group size AGM for the GTS from my supplier for an even $100
 
I have had good luck with the Odyssey batteries. My first one purchased for a 2004 Dakota in 2005, is now in the FJ40. That battery is 10 years old. I do put the trickle charger on the battery every 3 weeks if the vehicle is not being used much. The Odyssey is an AGM with military specs and a 12? year shelf life.
Lead acid batteries will always be around for older cars. The LiIon batteries have great power density, but must have a BMS (battery maintenance system) to keep from being over charged. Each cell must be monitored when charging. Remember the Dreamliner incident.
 
All the batterys we use on emergency equipment would last 4 years now they only last1 1/2 to 2 years with a charger on them to prevent heavy drainage. may be its the recycled lead ,you cant get fresh lead anymore? but the electrical loads have gone down with led lighting and the alt. puts out 300amps about a 33% higher then needed. to keep up 4 group 31 batterys at 4800 amp hours.
 
I have found most people have sticker shock for a lead acid battery for 120-170 dollars (and some even higher) depending on group size let along consider an agm battery.

Brian
 
I think it comes down to one thing..........the chineseoation of a nation.
 
First AGM battery I had was in my 92 Honda CBR600F2. Was so used to bike batteries lasting 1 season, was amazed when it lasted 6. 5 of them were in AZ, with the bike sitting out in the scorching sun from Noon to sunset 6 days a week. When I got my chopper it had a wet battery in it. Lasted less than 3 weeks. Battery in it now has 2 seasons on it. Don't even bother bringing it in the house during the winter. Don't even bother with the Battery Tender until I am ready to fire it up for the next season.
I listened to the advice of the parts guy when I got my first AGM car battery. Replaced the cables/clamps. Used some funky "military ends". Used 2 gauge cable. And never had to touch it again. No more baking soda baths. No more having to deal with the ends getting soft. No more wire brushing things. No more rotting battery trays. And no more rust stains in the driveway.
Replaced the Optimas in my Duramax in 09. Truck has a drain in it that is related to something under the dash that I have yet to find. Both batteries have shown .08 volts a few times. Few hours on the charger and they are good to go.
 
67Dart273 said:
I think it comes down to one thing..........the chineseoation of a nation.
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Yup, thus is true. My Duramax has an appetite for wheel bearings. Front end guy I use told me to stay away from China bearings. Went to my buddy at NAPA,China. Went to the small parts house in Suncrest, think it is Automotion or something like that, China. Went to the General Store, Ace hardware...China. Guess I will be putting another set of bearings on it in 15k. Just glad I am not paying the full $185 for them....My NAPA buddy sold me thelast set for $129 each..
 
inkjunkie said:
Yup, thus is true. My Duramax has an appetite for wheel bearings. Front end guy I use told me to stay away from China bearings. Went to my buddy at NAPA,China. Went to the small parts house in Suncrest, think it is Automotion or something like that, China. Went to the General Store, Ace hardware...China. Guess I will be putting another set of bearings on it in 15k. Just glad I am not paying the full $185 for them....My NAPA buddy sold me thelast set for $129 each..
Click to expand...

I've had the same problem with bearings Doug, can't find ANY that are not made in China. And I had to replace both sides again within a couple years.

About batteries, in the past I've had to replace my battery knowing I would not keep the car for very much longer, in that case I might go with the cheaper, low-tech battery. I guess there's still a market for them.
 
My lead acid batteries in regular use typically last 6-8 years. The ones in my 2007 Ram CTD are 8.5 years old now; they're finally showing some age. I buy top quality batteries; the last ones for a Ford diesel super duty were dealer items, as the Motorcraft ones seem to have kept up in quality.

What brand of lead acid batteries is very important; it has always been an item where you do indeed get what you pay for; buy the cheapest and they won't last. With the comment about the wheel bearings, the OP may be buying non-top-of-the-line parts; poor results are to be expected. I went through the same thing with front U-joints on the RAM; I found lots of China ones but kept at it 'till I found US made ones and paid more. They have been in for over 100k miles.
 
Sears DieHard Platinums arre relabeled Odyssey batteries. They've been working well in my Dodge dually and race car! They are less expensive than the Odysseys.

As for wheel bearings, the only solution is trying to find a better wheel bearing grease. Years ago I found an obvious difference on my heavy trailer when I switched from conventional HD grease to Amsoil's Racing Grease: http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/grease/dominator-synthetic-racing-grease/?code=GRGCR-EA
 
nm9stheham said:
I suspect the Duramax bearings being mentioned are sealed 1-piece roller bearings, not the traditional 2 part tapered roller bearings.
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They are indeed a sealed bearing/hub assembly...with the ABS sensor. Both of our vehicles, the 02 Cheby Duramax and a 99 Exploder, are 4 wheel drive. They both have bearing/hubs on the front. The Exploder needs a bearing as well. Have had it for a while now, just waiting for the next maintenance. It is not worn out just clicking. Like a bone head I used the impact go on the axle nut. From what I was told the impact action puts small divots in the bearing/races, which makes the noise.

Just talked to my buddy at NAPA, can get me a Red Top Optima for $154....

Damn near most irritating thing is a dead battery.

Went to go work on the trees on the sides of our roads yesterday. The truck I use for this sits, except for this. Just moved the damn thing on Saturday, started right up. Opened the door yesterday, barely enough juice to power the dome lights...
 
BillGrissom said:
If you go AGM, you don't have to shell out for Optima. Autozone carries many AGM cheaper as their Platinum line. I have kept buying the regular lead-acid, but AZ's gold-top w/ better warranty. That turned out well because I had a spate of bad batteries lately, some failing to hold a charge after a few months. That is various vehicles, so probably "not me".
Click to expand...

OReilly has their AGM version too, which is close to 100 dollars less than the Optima in some cases.
 
inkjunkie said:
They are indeed a sealed bearing/hub assembly...with the ABS sensor. Both of our vehicles, the 02 Cheby Duramax and a 99 Exploder, are 4 wheel drive. They both have bearing/hubs on the front. The Exploder needs a bearing as well. Have had it for a while now, just waiting for the next maintenance.
Click to expand...
FWIW, I have had to replace both front hub/bearing assemblies in my 4WD Ram; the OEM items both failed, one at 65k and the other at 85k. Went with the NAPA items; both are now at 175k so the NAPA items look to be better. (For THAT part at least...)

inkjunkie said:
It is not worn out just clicking. Like a bone head I used the impact go on the axle nut. From what I was told the impact action puts small divots in the bearing/races, which makes the noise.
Click to expand...
Doh....did that on my wife's Caracvan once...
 
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