Lets discuss another engine build

1pt. of compression is worth approx. 3% in power increase/decrease which is mostly seen on the mid to big end where the cam shafts power comes into play. (Assuming larger than stock where meaningful torque takes place after 1500rpm.) If the ratio plays better with the camshaft, the difference will be noted ever so slightly via the butt dyno. If the butt is crazy sensitive. It will show at the strip by a very small margin. Very small.

Your camshaft working in a sub 8.0-1 ratio will have a noted gain @ 9.0-1 - 9.5-1.
Going from 9.5-1 to 11-1 will cause octane issues but no real gain noted or worth the expense. Going from 9.5-1 to 8-1 or less will have a noted decrease in performance into a sluggish realm. By compare. And via dyno only. Which will show a better or worse working engine.

345 HP + 3% = 355 HP (10.35 HP gain)
345 HP + 3.5% = 357 HP (12.07 HP gain)
680 HP + 3% = 700 HP (20.4 HP gain)

Your not feeling 10/12 HP on the low powered engine,
your never going to feel 20HP when you started with 680.

Use as much compression as you can get away with BUT do understand undoing that ratio is a head gasket swap. Is that head gasket thickness available to you? I guess it is easier than trying to add more ratio. Octane requirements are limited and must work with the engines compression ratio and cam. You can have a high ratio engine living on pump gas BUT it does (in general) require a rathey larger than ideal cam for the engine set up and car. You can see manual transmission guys get away with this since a manual will need more cam and gear as a norm vs. an automatic car.

As you and many know, the larger cam bleeds off some compression making pump gas a reality. But with a trade off there willing to do.