Dash Cluster Question - 68 Barracuda
- Thread starter MrJLR
- Start date
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R4Sedan
Larry
Jeff, I think If I was you I would PM Del (67Dart273) he is an electrical guru. He could walk you through how to bench test. I am gonna have to do this to my Barracuda eventually. Larry
Yote
Well-Known Member
Sedan is correct. Del is a genius.it took the fabo guys a while to thump it I to my thick head, but my dash is now up and running.
Yote
Yote
Will do! Thanks for the lead!
I don't know why I'm so intimated by electronics.....ugh!
Jeff
I don't know why I'm so intimated by electronics.....ugh!
Jeff
ratvon
Well-Known Member
I just got back from summit racing with some led bulbs luckily for me they aren't that far away
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I would not use a battery charger. They are usually not filtered nor regulated. If You can test as much as you want depending on how ambitious you are. Take things "separately."
The indicator lights are easy, the high beam, left, right turn, etc, are just one connector pin, one wire, to the light bulb and ground.
All the illumination lamps are one pin and ground
The gauges you need
ground of course
12V to the ignition run pin which supplies the IVR and the gauges power
And then a test resistor to see what the gauges do, one at a time, from the sender pin to ground.
More comin..........
Just follow the pins in the diagram above, starting at the center "key"
The one straight up "F" is the fuel sender.
Going CW, "RT" is right turn indicator lamp
Next one is "blank" and the next one is one end of the "B" Brake indicator lamp
Next one, "O" is for the oil sender
Next one is "B" the other end of the brake indicator lamp. This gets 12V from the key at one end, and the other end goes to ground through the parking brake switch, and the wire hooks up to the brake warning switch, under the hood
Next one "L" (looks like a "V") is your dash illumination lamps
Next one "T" is temp sender
Next one is blank
Last one with the capacitor (condenser) is 12V "run" coming in to power the IVR
I would not use a battery charger. They are usually not filtered nor regulated. If You can test as much as you want depending on how ambitious you are. Take things "separately."
The indicator lights are easy, the high beam, left, right turn, etc, are just one connector pin, one wire, to the light bulb and ground.
All the illumination lamps are one pin and ground
The gauges you need
ground of course
12V to the ignition run pin which supplies the IVR and the gauges power
And then a test resistor to see what the gauges do, one at a time, from the sender pin to ground.
More comin..........
Just follow the pins in the diagram above, starting at the center "key"
The one straight up "F" is the fuel sender.
Going CW, "RT" is right turn indicator lamp
Next one is "blank" and the next one is one end of the "B" Brake indicator lamp
Next one, "O" is for the oil sender
Next one is "B" the other end of the brake indicator lamp. This gets 12V from the key at one end, and the other end goes to ground through the parking brake switch, and the wire hooks up to the brake warning switch, under the hood
Next one "L" (looks like a "V") is your dash illumination lamps
Next one "T" is temp sender
Next one is blank
Last one with the capacitor (condenser) is 12V "run" coming in to power the IVR
Absolutely awesome! Thank you!
I'm going to get started this morning!
I'll post up results and pics later.
Thanks again!
Jeff
Found this video. ....watched it once. ..gonna watch it at LEAST one more time. ....
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=234
[ame]https://youtu.be/3msQoyeGi78[/ame]
Jeff
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=234
[ame]https://youtu.be/3msQoyeGi78[/ame]
Jeff
Yote
Well-Known Member
LED bulbs ??? You dont happen to have that bulb number handy? I would like to try those. I think my new ones are almost burned out, they seem pretty dim, Lol.
61forfun
Well-Known Member
these are what I used
Yote
Well-Known Member
My old eyes also think that the sun is getting dimmer. THANKS
YOTE
YOTE
Yote
Well-Known Member
61forfun, how did the LEDs work out for you ? Are they bright ?
Yote
Yote
61forfun
Well-Known Member
Lovely I highly recommend
Yote
Well-Known Member
Thanks . If I understand correctly, LEDs are polarity specific. How does that work ? Do you have to install them, and if they don't work change them a half turn ?
Yote
Yote
yes sir
SteveM
Active Member
Couple of questions:
With the LEDs and the Rallye dash, did you remove the original mounted blue bulb filters?
As far as color, green seems to be the consensus, I was thinking blue. Does anyone have a preference?
With the LEDs and the Rallye dash, did you remove the original mounted blue bulb filters?
As far as color, green seems to be the consensus, I was thinking blue. Does anyone have a preference?
I didnt remove blue filters. Simply swapped bulbs for leds. Bench test/check if dash is out
ratvon
Well-Known Member
I went with blue LEDs looks cool my dash is a house of colors green. It's what you like is what you go with.But I would definitely do what dragtop said if the dash is out put power to it ,I'll bet you'll have to fix a couple grounds
ratvon
Well-Known Member
If your using the original sockets for the bulbs the brass tabs don't like to make contact
Removed diffuser globes
+ loose fit at bulb to socket
= bulb(s) rolling around in bottom of cluster.
cudajim
cudajim
I just use a 7805 regulator with a heatsink. It's cheap and easy.
famous bob
mopar misfit
also used the battery charger to test. But ended up rewiring the whole car, didn`t want 49 yr old wiring in it. Also bought a limiter off ebay and a new sender. It works , but is slow as molasses getting there ! ???
Yep, A regulator that can output nothing more than 5.4 volt and 1.5 amp once heated up, puts out a little less than that when stone cold. Does make for very slow needles, especially when running 3 instruments. No more rapid temp changes could extend the life of the gauges, in theory, not proven.
The RTE unit does mimic the mechanical limiter in rapidly heating the gauges/moving the needles at switch on.
I've got my 67 rally panel out now and I am considering a separate 7805 regulator for each of the 3 gauges. Hung up on where to put them, designing and building a home for the little devils. LOL
famous bob
mopar misfit
my fuel gauge is the ony thing that being regulated my the limiter. Don`t get too technical on me here, I`m surprised and thankful that everything works ! lol
In that case your fuel gauge is pretty quick compared to mine. You can't imagine how slow my oil gauge needle is. One would think the filter is clogged or something LOL Happy moparing
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