67Dart273 said

I would not use a battery charger. They are usually not filtered nor regulated. If You can test as much as you want depending on how ambitious you are. Take things "separately."

The indicator lights are easy, the high beam, left, right turn, etc, are just one connector pin, one wire, to the light bulb and ground.

All the illumination lamps are one pin and ground

The gauges you need

ground of course

12V to the ignition run pin which supplies the IVR and the gauges power

And then a test resistor to see what the gauges do, one at a time, from the sender pin to ground.

More comin..........












Just follow the pins in the diagram above, starting at the center "key"

The one straight up "F" is the fuel sender.

Going CW, "RT" is right turn indicator lamp

Next one is "blank" and the next one is one end of the "B" Brake indicator lamp

Next one, "O" is for the oil sender

Next one is "B" the other end of the brake indicator lamp. This gets 12V from the key at one end, and the other end goes to ground through the parking brake switch, and the wire hooks up to the brake warning switch, under the hood

Next one "L" (looks like a "V") is your dash illumination lamps

Next one "T" is temp sender

Next one is blank

Last one with the capacitor (condenser) is 12V "run" coming in to power the IVR

Click to expand...