Quick coil question

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whitey66

Josh Amspacher
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Dec 24, 2010
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york pa
So... Im trying to revive my car that was in storage for years. The car ran like crazy 10 years ago after countless hours of tuning (shaved head offy intake 600 holley) didn't miss a beat! But storage didn't do the car any good. It's A 67 slanty has electronic ignition. Also electronic voltage reg and dual field alt to match it. So charging system is rock steady. I swapped the leaky slush box trans for an a833 od. During storage i robbed the blaster 2 coil for another hotrod. So now it has a stock old used coil. My timing light won't even pick up the signal from that weak thing. (runs like poop too.. like not driveable) So my quick question is what is a good performance durable coil to run? I'm going to throw a new cap rotor and plug wires on it too while i'm at it. I'm pulling my hair out trying to get this thing straightened out. So if you guys could give me your opinions on good coils that would be greatly appreciated!
thanks fellas
Josh
 
Is the polarity right on the coil? Even a stock coil should run good and generate a hot spark and low rpms....check to be sure it is wired right and has good voltage to it.
 
I'll double check. I did test both my timing lights on another car too. Just making sure they weren't bad. Thanks for your help
josh
 
I replaced a MSD blaster with a new napa auto coil and didn't notice any performance drop off.
 
Start with new plugs,wires,cap/rotor.
Go from there. Then check ground on ignition box and other possible corroded connections.
To and from coil/ballast wire connections most likely could be remedy.

If still have issues, I would look at carb/ fuel/ filter troubleshooting.
 
I did rebuild the carb before trying to start it. It had gummed up and needed tore down and rebuilt. It ran so poorly i put a new eddy 600 carb on it. It kept stalling here i figured out the mechanical advance weights were sticking in the dizzy. So i Tore the dizzy apart which had light weight quick advance springs in it. Cleaned the the pivots made sure everything was loose and installed stock weights springs. That helped. Now if i could set the timing. I think I might have it! hehehe. Definitely needs new cap rotor wires and plugs. Where is a reliable place to get a new electronic dizzy from? Oh I also replaced the pick up in the dizzy with one from Advance auto. I'm questioning that decision now too. it is gapped properly. Also replaced the ecu with tested working ecu's.
 
slanty has electronic ignition.............. now it has a stock old used coil. My timing light won't even pick up the signal from that weak thing. (runs like poop too.. like not driveable) ..............

The problem IS NOT the type of coil

You have some sort of problem, either wiring / low voltage, or a bad component. Or MAYBE a bad factory coil!!!

Start by making absolutely certain that the ECU is grounded.

"Work" all connectors in/ out several times, to scrub the terminals, and to feel for tightness. The ECU, the ballast, and the distributor

As above, examine the cap / rotor for carbon tracking, damage, moisture, oil, etc.

CHECK the resistance of the coil wire, or substitute a wire core wire Consider just replacing cap, rotor, plugs and wires!!!!!

If you have a tach temporarily unhook it, and unhook anything from the coil except the coil + and coil neg wires.

With the engine running at fast idle, check battery voltage at the battery. Should be close to 14V. Now check coil + voltage. Should be above 10, typically 11-12, but below 14
 
Cool thank you all for the helpful tips! I'll repost once i figure it out.
Thanks
josh
 
If you do need a coil, the Pertronix Ignitor II is a good equivalent to the stock coil; get the 1.5 ohm version if you keep the ballast. They are at a lot of the box auto parts stores. Check the resistance of the ballast if needs to be less than 1 ohm cold. If higher get a proper one; the MSD 0.8 ohm unit at a lot of box stores is good.
 
Check distributor magnetic pickup air gap as well.
 

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