360 magnum into abody and efi/carby questions

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maca

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Hi all
I am looking at installing a 360 magnum into my Abody. I already have a magnum in my other Abody car and its supercharged with a carby and goes great. So this car I am doing now will not be a super powerful car. I want it for more of a tough cruiser with over 300hp to 360 FWHP and keep the aircon etc.

As it will be more of a cruiser I am contemplating keeping the factory efi. I have done some research on this site and it looks like I can keep it efi and swap it as long as I have the factory ecu and buy a new wiring harness, efi pump and regulator.
Have I forgotten anything? Do I need anything else?

If this is all I need to do the next question is will the factory efi be ok to up the power a bit or is there a low limit I can go. The 1st magnum I ever built was 360 FWHP and all I did was swap the efi to carby, install extractors and changed to this cam. I would be very happy to have this as my cruiser but I don't know if the factory efi will allow this.
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=661&sb=0
I do have 2 of these cams. One with lobes ground at 110 for a carby and one ground at 114 for efi so I can go either way. My concern is that I spend the money keeping the factory efi but end up not being able to get my required HP because of the efi may have limitations.
Any help is appreciated.
cheers
 
You can just run a standalone instead of the factory EFI if that worries you.

I went all out and did MS3 Pro, I did it on an LA, and you don't have to go as far as I did, but here's a link to my topic:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=327225

I believe you could run one with a MS2 or even potentially a Microsquirt, both of which are pretty cheap. MS3/MS3X, the cheaper kind does everything mine did.

I'm running a 227/231 duration @ .050 cam on a 110 and I have ZERO issues with it and my EFI setup.
 
The factory Mopar OBDII efi is very tunable. I'm running the same PCM that ran a near stock 5.9 Magnum that I am using on my 408" 480 hp Stroker with 39lbs injectors. The nice part about it is its plug and play.

Yes, you can buy or build your wiring harness, but mine hooked up with 4 wires. The fuel system needs upgrading either way, but the has been a lot of advances in that area in the last 5 years.

I use n SCT handheld tuner to upload tunes into the PCM. My tuner lives across the country from me. It took four tunes to dial it in. EFI is wonderful no matter how you get there.
 
Thanks guys
The main reason I was going to go the factory efi was price. I spend all my money on my supercharged car and i am still chasing HP in that engine so with this car I just want to spend minimum on this engine. I was only thinking around the 360 FWHP because this was easily achieved with the stock magnum block,heads etc but just with a cam etc. I think the cheapest way would be to achieve efi is to use the factory set up but I didn't know if they could support 360FWHP. If it will support the HP i am trying to get my head around what i will need to do to it to make it run in my car.
My other option was a efi carby like this. Looks pretty simple too.
http://fitechefi.com/default.asp.pg-Products
I have read so much over the past few days that I am forgetting stuff. I will go back and read the PM messages you sent me John as I think you gave me some details on running the efi
 
The cam will work fine, you will want to do a pcm flash anyway to achieve your HP goals. I would think that with that cam you will at least be close, given you use upgraded heads then no problem.
 
Will the efi be a little more restricting than the carby?
For eg. If I achieved 360hp with that cam in my engine running carby and edelbrock intake and then swapped to the factory intake and efi set up, do you think I would lose power?
 
I doubt that that cam, stock heads and a carb will make 360. I would guess more like breaking 300.

Your question, can you get 360hp with factory injection, yes you can. If you want an idea of what it would take: heads, cam, TB, good exhaust, injectors and pcm flash.
 
Thanks, I am starting to get an idea of everything I will need.
I did get 360FWHP with that set up. But I did change a few things. I just got a stock magnum engine and
I shaved the heads to get the comp up and installed hughes 1110 springs
had the cam ground at 110 lobes
extractors
edelbrock duel plain with a 770 street avenger.
The 360 FWHP gave me 270 at the wheels through a 46rh trans and pushed my Aussie charger to 13.3 down the quarter. This was the 1st engine I had ever built and it was a very well behaved mild build. The only major problem I had was the lifters did not pump up all the time. I had 60psi oil pressure but it was noisy as hell. I tried preloads from .025 to .060 but nothing helped. I brought a set of mopar performance lifters but they were just as bad. I heard there was a bad batch so I brought another set from a different supplier but they didn't fix it either. So I installed a set of crane lifters and had 6 mechanics look at it for me but still couldn't fix it. I had the engine rebuilt twice but no one could find any reason why they wouldn't stay pumped up. I finally had no money left and installed a solid roller cam.
This was my only bad experience with the magnum engine so I am really worried the next engine might give me the same issues but I don't hear or see on the forums anyone else having any issues like that so I hope it was just an issue with my block. Fingers crossed.
Oh and the other bad thing that I have had is I have used those MLS gaskets twice now and both times they leak oil. I am running some now and I had the heads and deck machined and used a special spray to seal them but the bloody thing are still leaking oil. I wont use them again.
 
magnummopar said:
I doubt that that cam, stock heads and a carb will make 360. I would guess more like breaking 300.

Your question, can you get 360hp with factory injection, yes you can. If you want an idea of what it would take: heads, cam, TB, good exhaust, injectors and pcm flash.
Click to expand...

Considering the torque these Magnums make,(360 with factory F.I. ,and what has been seen done) H.P.,is the selling point,that torque curve is just nasty. I basically cloned the 380 short block,added the basic E.Q.heads... It's carbed,for now...Throttle response is crazy..
 
I remember you having trouble with the hydraulic rollers and asking questions on Comp Cams forum. Sorry to hear you never did get that straightened out.
 
Yes it was very unfortunate I couldn't figure it out. I spent thousand's of dollars over 2 years until I just couldn't spend any more. I am hoping it was just something in my block and the next magnum I buy is ok. I am a bit nervous as it cost me so much.

What is the 380 short block Abodybomber mentioned?
Also for mid 300s HP will the factory throttle body be ok or will it be too small cfm
cheers
 
I ended up with E/Q stock replacement heads,(Stock LA/normal 360 bolt pattern heads,a standard Edelbrock Rpm air gap,a custom Howard's roller grind. ( you want 230@ .050" & about .510"-.520" lift,with stock 1.6 ratio rockers. Run the Hughes 1110 valve springs,and matching retainers.The Mr Gasket 1121 head gaskets,are .028 " thick, against stock stuff at .050" ..That's worth a couple of tenths on compression. As for cams: if anyone's grinding hot cams where you are at, give them a call. If not: Give Oregon Cams a call, give them your info. You need a name brand grind: Bullitt/ Howard's /Comp.
Make sure it's on a cast iron core,not the over priced billet garbage that needs the dumb bronze distributor gear.
P.S: If the stock heads have good valve seats,run them..F.I no clue.. as for midc300 h.p., a cam with about 215-220 @ .050/112-114"lobe centers/.480,lift.. ,will do very nicely.
:
 
magnummopar said:
I doubt that that cam, stock heads and a carb will make 360. I would guess more like breaking 300.

Your question, can you get 360hp with factory injection, yes you can. If you want an idea of what it would take: heads, cam, TB, good exhaust, injectors and pcm flash.
Click to expand...
Abodybomber said:
Considering the torque these Magnums make,(360 with factory F.I. ,and what has been seen done) H.P.,is the selling point,that torque curve is just nasty. I basically cloned the 380 short block,added the basic E.Q.heads... It's carbed,for now...Throttle response is crazy..
Click to expand...
Both of these. I don't think they're in disagreement. All of your aftermarket replacement heads flow better than stock. I wouldn't think the cam and intake would improve to 360 on their own.
 
Don't use the stock EFI beer barrel for a performance application. The runners are too long for it to rev.
 
Goldduster....

maca said:
Thanks guys
The main reason I was going to go the factory efi was price. I spend all my money on my supercharged car and i am still chasing HP in that engine so with this car I just want to spend minimum on this engine. I was only thinking around the 360 FWHP because this was easily achieved with the stock magnum block,heads etc but just with a cam etc. I think the cheapest way would be to achieve efi is to use the factory set up but I didn't know if they could support 360FWHP. If it will support the HP i am trying to get my head around what i will need to do to it to make it run in my car.
My other option was a efi carby like this. Looks pretty simple too.
http://fitechefi.com/default.asp.pg-Products
I have read so much over the past few days that I am forgetting stuff. I will go back and read the PM messages you sent me John as I think you gave me some details on running the efi
Click to expand...

With OP being on a budget, the hughes Fi Air Gap will only provide about 25hp advantage which is achieved at 5000 rpm. Power is not much different until 4000 rpm. I know the Air gap is better, and not arguing that point, just pointing out OP on a budget will find 25 hp cheaper than $600 for 25 hp about 4000.
Up until Hughes made that manifold, the kegger was what we used and we built some very fast **** using them. he can certainly get to his HP goals with the kegger.
 
Well since you have a supercharged car, why not have a turbocharged one! Mine was built on a pretty low budget, and makes a very respectable 450 to the wheel on pump gas 91. Its also very tame on the street. The factory ecm is very tuner friendly, as long as you have the right guy doing it. Here is a pic of it in my 74 Regal.
 

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Abodybomber said:
I ended up with E/Q stock replacement heads,(Stock LA/normal 360 bolt pattern heads,a standard Edelbrock Rpm air gap,a custom Howard's roller grind. ( you want 230@ .050" & about .510"-.520" lift,with stock 1.6 ratio rockers. Run the Hughes 1110 valve springs,and matching retainers.The Mr Gasket 1121 head gaskets,are .028 " thick, against stock stuff at .050" ..That's worth a couple of tenths on compression. As for cams: if anyone's grinding hot cams where you are at, give them a call. If not: Give Oregon Cams a call, give them your info. You need a name brand grind: Bullitt/ Howard's /Comp.
Make sure it's on a cast iron core,not the over priced billet garbage that needs the dumb bronze distributor gear.
P.S: If the stock heads have good valve seats,run them..F.I no clue.. as for midc300 h.p., a cam with about 215-220 @ .050/112-114"lobe centers/.480,lift.. ,will do very nicely.
:
Click to expand...
Thanks
I remember ordering some head gaskets a long time ago that looked just like the Mr Gasket 1121 ones you suggested but from memory they were blue. They also compressed to .028 which was great but they were closer to 4" rather than 4.140
Does anyone know which ones they might have been?
thanks
 
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