alternator pully swap

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ssba

ssba

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Any tips or direction you got.
Looks like pully is pressed on. No threads in shaft for a puller.
Want to use the aluminum pulley shown in picture.
 

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Download the service manual ,and you will find how to remove and install the pulley. It should be in section 8 electrical
 
I know you have to split the case to press the new pulley on, and that chrome pulley is an underdrive pulley, so you are going to greatly reduce the amount of output that alternator is going to put out! Hope it's a 75 amp or better!!
 
Thanks for the replies, you confirmed my thoughts I would have to disassemble the alternator to press the new pulley on. Time to learn something new to me.
As for determining the output of this alternator. If I take it to a tester that can spin it will
they be able to tell me more than "it's working" like what amperage this is rated.
It is a square back alternator and I would guess when it was rebuilt they jumped up the output from what it was born with but would like to know for sure.
I am trying to prevent the alternator from spinning to fast on a quarter mile only car.
 
ssba said:
Thanks for the replies, you confirmed my thoughts I would have to disassemble the alternator to press the new pulley on. Time to learn something new to me.
As for determining the output of this alternator. If I take it to a tester that can spin it will
they be able to tell me more than "it's working" like what amperage this is rated.
It is a square back alternator and I would guess when it was rebuilt they jumped up the output from what it was born with but would like to know for sure.
I am trying to prevent the alternator from spinning to fast on a quarter mile only car.
Click to expand...

Just pull the belt when you run it on the quarter, as it will give you a bit more power if you do, and you won't have to worry about over spinning it.
 
Most of the big chain auto parts stores rent tools for free. (Auto Zone, etc.) They have the puller that you need. At Auto Zone you "Buy" the puller and then you get your money back when you return it.

Or take it to a shop and pay a few bucks and have them do it.
 
The last thing about your proposed pulley is that even if it does fit properly, and might not, it does not have the front collar for the puller. You will never get it back off the shaft "if the time comes" I don't know "who" but there are (Moroso?? etc) who make large Mopar pulleys

Also, it looks wider and flat bottomed? Might be the photo? If the belt bottoms out in the pulley it will slip.

Check with your local "parts stores" O'Reallys and others. Some of these outfits have the proper puller you can borrow. "By any other name" these pullers are also used on power steering pumps. You MUST use the center "knub" or collar to pull that without damage

There are several designs, all work on that center collar

https://www.google.com/search?q=pow...58zJAhUI1mMKHfJpAYoQ_AUICSgD&biw=1138&bih=511

PulleyPuller-PowerSteeringPump.JPG
 
Good eye Dell, yes this is a old moroso pully. It is half of a set that also includes the crank
pully. You would think they would have made a matching water pump pully also but not the case. I have found a ford pully to line up best so far.
The grooves are made deeper on this set so the belt can't spin off at high rpm.
Haven't fit a belt to see if it bottoms out in the groove yet.
You are correct also on the standard power steering puller not usable to remove this once pressed on. That does concern me also.
I may be able to ream the pully and use a set screw?
I will start by getting alt tested and pully removed.
 
Matching crank pully.
 

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TrailBeast said:
Just pull the belt when you run it on the quarter, as it will give you a bit more power if you do, and you won't have to worry about over spinning it.
Click to expand...

A larger diameter pulley slows down the alternator RPM's. Good for racing, but bad for idle charging.
 
This alternator will not be for street driving so it should be OK. Fingers crossed.
I also plan to use the constant output voltage regulator.
I did manage to get the pulley off, it was on very very tight. Didn't have the correct puller but with a small struggle it did eventually give up.
Next I'll take the alternator apart to see how the aluminum pulley can be pressed on without damaging anything?
I went to have this procedure done at a small business here locally like I have my entire life
but these shops are dropping out like flies. I suspect our town radiator shop will be the next to disappear.
Kind of disappointed I wasn't able to test the output before removing pully.
 

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Just to follow up for anyone thinking about using these old moroso underdrive pulleys.
First thing a person should know is that moroso makes two different alternator pulleys for the
old Mopar alternators.
Of course I obtained and installed the incorrect one first time around. Different year alternator case issue.
To remove the wrong pulley I just drill and tapped it so I could use a standard 2 bolt puller.
As far as taking the alternator apart it is just 3 case screws and removal of one of the field
brushes to put it back together. Very easy. No need to take these things to a shop like I thought.
I went to download the service manual for some tips but it was to large for my phone so I just jumped in.
As for putting the new pulley on I put the armature shaft case half in the freezer for a couple hours and boiled the pulley. Some light tapping with a padded hammer and it was on.
I spent more time sanding the sand cast finish off of them than I did actually working on the
alternator.
I never did find out what this alternators output is rated at. If anyone knows if there is a way
to test for amps I would like to hear about it.
 

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Just FWI
My street combo has never thrown a belt, with thousands of 7200 plus shifts. If I thought it mattered to me, I would put a switch in the field circuit, or the reg circuit, to shut it down at WOT
Those pulleys do look nice tho.
 
I also wouldn't put these pulleys on a street car.
My goal here is to get the ratios to match the 65 or 68 race hemis.
Still working on digging up this Pulley size information.
I will probably have to have a water pump pulley made to match the
belt groove of the moroso's and to get a correct ratio.
The cars only real electrical draws will be the ignition, two holley blue pumps, line-loc and brake lights. No electric fans or water pump.
The ignition is two mopar gold electronic box's and a pair of accel chrome race coils using a direct connection crank trigger with two sensors. Start and run. Its all outdated early 70s bits.
The headlights, dashlights and wipers will be working but not really ever used.
Constant output electronic voltage regulator.
As you can see I am trying to duplicate a 1973ish race car.
Have no plans on taking it on any trips or running longer than what you would do at a normal
day at the track. The race coils are not supposed to be run under 2000 rpm over 15 minutes.
 
Polished aluminum has about 5 times less emissivity than heavily oxidized aluminum. That means it becomes a horrible heat sink. What I suggest is based on fact, Google emissivity polished aluminum.
 
It ain't worth nothing till it gets up to temp. It will get there quick im sure with 13.5:1 compression.
It's not really meant to be run long. Gets cooled between rounds kind of engine.
It is built from all old parts used by plenty of racers before I found their obsolete leftovers.
Block is cast iron. Will be painted Hemi orange.
The heads were Sox & Martins when new ported by Mullens. I bought them from Fred Hurst they are unpolished aluminum.
Waterpump housing and intake was polished back in the 70s. That what they did back then. Even the carb linkage and all the intake bolts that came with it had been chrome plated.
Besides this car will not be in the thick of any competition. They wouldn't let it on the track
with all the safety equipment outdated over 40 years.
Its got a fresh rebuilt high volume Mopar water pump and a 7 blade fan. Haven't got the radiator recored yet but it will be 4 row brass with a polished top tank just because that is how it was done.
For me It's only about a possible chance to experience what it was like to drive a car similar to the ones that left a impression on me.
At least as similar as I can find or afford.
It just a sense less hobby that I enjoy that's it.
May work out, may go up in smoke.
I doubt emissivity was on their minds when they did any of these mods to their parts. Shining things up sure wouldn't have made them any faster but for some reason they felt the need and did it anyway only for me to copy today.
 
I know you are correct and it is logical to keep things cool.
This is just a nostalgia thing. Really the entire car doesn't make sense
like it may have seemed to 40 years ago.
 
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