Chrysler starter spin down time

When properly built, they don't—that's only when they're worn out or when thrown together by a "remanufacturer". Way-too-aggressive blast-media cleaning of castings, failure to use the correct leather brake washer (and install it dry and make sure it stays dry), misapplication of way-too-big so-called "high torque" field coils, and all the rest of the don't-give-a-futz procedures that go into "remanufacturing" starters all add up to a starter that sounds like hell and takes forever to spin down (and has a short, unhappy life).

Don't believe me? Listen and hear for yourself; Here and here are recordings of a properly-built large-frame (1.8hp) Chrysler gear-reduction starter cranking and starting my '62. And here's a properly-built small-frame, 3-series/1-shunt (1.3hp) Chrysler gear-reduction starter cranking and starting a 440 in a '66.

Want back that classic Chrysler "Highland Park Hummingbird" cranking sound, without the hair-raising gear thrash and long spindown? Have an original starter built up correctly, or buy a new old stock unit (they are not difficult or costly to get hold of; I have more of them on my shelf than I'll ever use.)

Thanks SlantsixDan for the wealth of information on these starters! I am impressed,you were even able to tell me what the little hole is for on the starters. Do you rebuild these yourself? Would you by any chance be willing to part with one of the NOS starters on your self? Do you have one that would be year correct for my 1970 Swinger? I have the 225 slant. I checked on ebay but didn't see any NOS 1970 starters.

I like the "Highland Park Hummingbird" line. Its funny how many people here comment on how the sound makes them smile. Indeed,its truly a unique sound.

P.S. would you happen to know the size screw that goes in the little hole so I can find one,or do I need to worry about the hole letting dust into the starter? right now I have a piece of tape over it.