80's 360 in a 60's mopar
Thanks for all the comments and good info, some of this I knew but don't mind the reminder, and some of it I didn't but really glad to learn!
Early oil pan wont work. You need a 360 specific CAR pan AND pickup........
If you are handy with welding / brazing, you can "morph the two pans.... I cut out a rear section from both pans using a simple jig, swapped them between pans, and welded them back in. Presto. 1 340 rear sump pan, and 1 360 "car" pan
I believe that there is a specific oil pan to use on the 360 in the early a-bodies, I believe Memike the moderator knows what number to look for on the pan... The wrong pan may interfere with the steering linkages... ..
Really good to know. I'll research threads about 360 oil pans in early A's to see if there are pics. Sounds like either find a certain pan or get ready to braze!
Also, your early A will need the V8 centerlink with the dropped center.... You'll also need 360/early A specific motor mounts....273's won't work....
The centerlink got swapped when i installed the 318 years ago. If memory serves I previously used the 70 Dart 318 mounts that came with the engine. Oddly the mounts on this 360 look identical, though maybe they're not. Seems like the last 360 I saw (a 78 ) had spool mounts, but I could be wrong. Also wouldnt be surprised if a panel truck application had older style mount hardware. Either way, something to watch closely on installation.
Exhaust will probably be early 273 as I don't think the later Dakota manifolds are proven to fit (stand to be corrected here)....
The car has dual exhaust installed for the 318, what i can't remember is what exhaust manifolds I used, might have been stock 70 Dart 318 manifolds, but I might have found 340s for it. Certainly won't be running the existing 360 iron. I'll have to take a close look at what's there and what's in my parts stash.
Thin head gasket isn't going to help much...maybe .1 or.2 more comp. ...
Good to know, becasue I'd rather not take the heads off without a compelling reason.
273 distributor is fine....
Thought so, didn't want to assume...
And you wanna stick with points? Really? I just can't find words.....I've been sitting here for over 5 minutes, trying to think of something nice to say about points, but I just cannot.Nor about the nearly 50 year old distributor
Well, you have to adjust them, they're finicky and require maintainance. And I love that in anything other than a daily commuter. Electronic ignition is great if you want rugged daily reliability or if you want maximum performance, but that's not why I love mopars. I have gone to some trouble to install electronic ignition on other engines and in the end find that for recreational wrenching I miss the points. Call me crazy, I know. But at least I know what I like and why. Same with installing high tech modern transmissions in a vintage race car - sure it's better, but to me the old stuff has more soul.
Use the early 273 timing chain cover and water pump to avoid having to change your rad inlets and outlets. While you're in there, you might as well install a true dbl-roller chain and sprockets. ...
Double roller chain and sprockets for sure.
Use the timing chain cover and cast iron water pump from the old 69 and earlier 273/318/340. By doing this, you can make it hook up to the original radiator for the 65 Barracuda, you will just have to re mark tdc marks on the 360 vibration damper to match up with the old timing mark location on the timing cover...
By using the old timing cover and cast iron water pump, them stock power steering pump for it will bolt up to the cast iron water pump correctly.
That's really good to know, I'll be going that route. When I installed the 318 I used the stock aluminum water pump, and I never liked the way it looked.
If you can also get the 273 valve covers, they are taller for adjustable valve train, if and when you go that route. And people will think it is a 273, not a torque maker 360, sleepers are great!
Exactly the plan! I'm not ready to switch valve train until its' time to swap cams, and then I'll probably do both at once. But for sure 273 valve covers, even the stock ones look better! (Got a set of nice Commando covers ready to go on though)
You can run the 360 2 bbl if you like, but a 340/360-port size aluminum intake and 600-650 cfm carb. will perform better....
Exactly. I always got better mileage with a 4-barrel (if I stay off it) than a 2-barrel anyway. I've got a couple of intakes here to choose from, will follow up with that.
E-4 cam is too small for a 360...they are better suited for a 273 - 318 tops....
I have been thinking about an upcoming 273 rebuild and been reading all about 273 cams. Slipped my mind when I wrote this tha of course a 360 flows way more even stock, so it'll be a different cam. Something for a 360 like an E-4 is for a 273.
The 360 is an external balance engine. You cannot use the teener flywheel. And since its an auto, you may have issues mating it to the M/T. You may need the Dakota type pilot bearing, and sometimes the input shaft needs to be bobbed to find room in the crank...
Got an externally balanced 360 flywheel to go in. The existing 833, bell, clutch and flywheel in the car now are all '66 Formula S pieces (10" clutch? can't remember)
My concerns are:
-will the 360 flywheel fit inside the early bellhousing?
-will the early pressure plate bolt to the 360 flywheel?
-if not for either of those it seems like I'll have to find a different bellhousing, and make sure it fits my 833's input bearing. Could also consider another later 833 i used to have, if i can find it. Would be nice not to have to.
I would take all of the emissions equipment off, slide a nice mild cam in it, good intake and a decent size 4 barrel and call it done. Unless you can stand 1000 bucks for headers, you will be running manifolds, so stay mild with the engine. Leave the compression alone. You will gain leaps and bounds more power with simple bolt ons than a jump in compression will ever bring. Besides, this is a street car, right?
Early A Bodies are very light won't take much power to make a rocket out of it. Cam duels and 4bbl is all you need plus gears shift kit and igintion wouldn't hurt.
This is what I learned about hopping up smog motors. A thin head gasket is probably already there and if not the gain is nothing to talk about. Just install a dual plane for the street, a 750 square bore carb is as big as you want to go, mild cam durations work best. No head work needed unless the spring seat needs machining. The rest of the drive train is a simple shift kit and stall converter if needed and a rear gear change to suite the cam and intended purpose of the build.
Re sell everything that your not using to roll over into new parts to simply help the project and wallet. Learn how to rebuild and tune and install your own stuff and you will be waaaaay ahead of the curve.
And lastly, just enjoy! That's what I learned in my youth in trying to get somewhere in hot rodding cars with a light wallet. Just enjoy it all.
If you take the time to look at cams specs and where the manufacturer says they will perform in, there is no need to retard or advance the cam. The K.I.S.S. Method works great!
This is exactly what I have in mind - when I was younger and foolisher, I made lots of mistakes i still see other people make - i.e. going way too far into soemthign than they have to. Sure, it's a labor of love, but you really have to identify your real intended purpose in order to avoid making it hard on yourself.
In my case I know how i enjoy driving - on the street, not on the track. I like the feel of torque, but rarely make it to WOT, rarely found myself running out of power even with a 273, so I can measure carefully whether I need to go to the huge effort I see racers do to squeeze out that extra half second. Since I am on street tires, with road suspension, my ETs would always be limited anyway. So my approach for a little more power (always good) is to go with a larger displacement engine, mildly warmed over with reliable bolt-on mods for more torque. this is also the advantage of having more than one mopar - I'm not trying to make one car do everything. My 65 Barracuda is a fun hot rod for cruising around town, if i ever get interested in track days it would probably be with a different car.
Much appreciated from everyone, the feedback is very useful to let me know I'm on track or when i'm not.
