Any tips for replacing the points and condenser on a 70 Dart slant six?
I never use feelers, only dwell.
Bump the starter, using something to jumper the starter relay, until the points are open "on the cam."
Remove points and condenser. Use blankets, mat over the fender, get yourself in a sober, relaxed, good mood, and take your time. As above, a "screw starter" is VERY much recommended. I've got a "split blade" one just like my Dad had that is at least 40 years old
Looks exactly like the bottom one. Even has a red handle
Apply a tiny amount of "cam lube" (hi temp grease) to the APPROACH side of the points rubbing block. The slant dist. rotates CW, so the approaching side.
Inspect the points cam, and wipe clean.
Install the points / condenser, and get two screwdrivers, and or snug the holding screw so you can still move the points.
"Adjust" the points "by eye" so they are open a bit. This takes a practised eye. I used to do this, probably would have to make a couple of runs at it nowadays.
Hook up your dwell meter and turn on the ignition, crank the engine and read the dwell. Adjust the dwell "on the starter" for the "low numbers" end of dwell which is "wider open." This allows for wear of the points
While / before you are doing all this, inspect the cap, rotor, for damage, grease, oil, carbon tracking, etc. Wiggle the shaft and look for obvious wear in the dist. Drop a couple of drops of oil in the felt in the end of the shaft.
SAVE the old condenser if it was OK.
Now start the engine, and re-check dwell. You may have to re-adjust as the running dwell and "on the starter" dwell may be off some. just observe the difference and compensate a few degrees.
Last, set the timing. Don't bump it up TOO much as this might cause over advance. Always bump up "a little" because as the points wear then RETARD the timing.
Recheck dwell and timing after 200-500 miles.
After you set timing, warm up the engine and adjust idle speed and idle mixture. Finally, "touch up" idle speed and mixture, and speed last
Be careful, when making carb adjustments, that you don't have vacuum hoses disconnected, which can affect
I never use feelers, only dwell.
Bump the starter, using something to jumper the starter relay, until the points are open "on the cam."
Remove points and condenser. Use blankets, mat over the fender, get yourself in a sober, relaxed, good mood, and take your time. As above, a "screw starter" is VERY much recommended. I've got a "split blade" one just like my Dad had that is at least 40 years old
Looks exactly like the bottom one. Even has a red handle
Apply a tiny amount of "cam lube" (hi temp grease) to the APPROACH side of the points rubbing block. The slant dist. rotates CW, so the approaching side.
Inspect the points cam, and wipe clean.
Install the points / condenser, and get two screwdrivers, and or snug the holding screw so you can still move the points.
"Adjust" the points "by eye" so they are open a bit. This takes a practised eye. I used to do this, probably would have to make a couple of runs at it nowadays.
Hook up your dwell meter and turn on the ignition, crank the engine and read the dwell. Adjust the dwell "on the starter" for the "low numbers" end of dwell which is "wider open." This allows for wear of the points
While / before you are doing all this, inspect the cap, rotor, for damage, grease, oil, carbon tracking, etc. Wiggle the shaft and look for obvious wear in the dist. Drop a couple of drops of oil in the felt in the end of the shaft.
SAVE the old condenser if it was OK.
Now start the engine, and re-check dwell. You may have to re-adjust as the running dwell and "on the starter" dwell may be off some. just observe the difference and compensate a few degrees.
Last, set the timing. Don't bump it up TOO much as this might cause over advance. Always bump up "a little" because as the points wear then RETARD the timing.
Recheck dwell and timing after 200-500 miles.
After you set timing, warm up the engine and adjust idle speed and idle mixture. Finally, "touch up" idle speed and mixture, and speed last
Be careful, when making carb adjustments, that you don't have vacuum hoses disconnected, which can affect