Fuel line with sub frame connectors

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frederick_76

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Has anyone ran into any issues using pre bent/formed fuel line with sub frame connectors on your car? Would like to know before I place an order, thanks.
 
Don't know of anyone that makes a pre-bent line to use with frame connectors. I made my own. It can be a pain to deal with.

If you make your own, you kinda need to figure out where the the lines start and end. I ran mine inside the frame connector through the bulkhead above the trans. cross member. I actually have a factory tank so I ran the line up from the sender kinda straight up and towards the pass. side, over the wheel arch and up to the front.
 
I used a 3/8" stainless steel from inline tubes on my Demon. The frame connectors are home brewed. Wasn't extremely hateful. Had to pull the right rear tire and shock as well as raise the car off the suspension to allow the rear end to hang down. Also the gas tank wasn't installed yet.
 
I found some pics from when I did my lines.

Here's a shot looking forward. You can see the line running along the frame connector and how it bends up through the bulkhead into the engine compartment. Couple things - from there it runs along the right side front frame rail. I have a mechanical pump so the line goes right to it. If I had an electric fuel pump, I would make the line go up the firewall and feed the carb from the back of the block. Running a line from a mech. pump to the carb can be a pain with the accessories and headers.
IMG_8276.jpg


This is a shot looking backwards along the inside of the frame connector. Hard to see but the line comes down the wheel arch and just runs along the connector to where you see it above. The muffler looks close but it's not. I used the heat shield stuff anyway. I used a bunch of line clamps too, including some factory clips if it worked out that way.
IMG_8267.jpg


Hope that helps. If you do wind up buying the pre-bent lines, you will have to cut it and use a bulkhead fitting too pass it through whichever obstacle is in your way.
 
I have the Hotchkis frame connectors...and after they were on, I switched to a 3/8 line for EFI. You'll need to cut it in half about right near where the front seat is to get it in. You can use a compression union to put it back together...or in my case I used an AN -6 union and flared the line. You could also double flare it and use a union.
 
I switched to a 3/8 line for EFI. You can use a compression union to put it back together...

Nooooo!!! Compression fitting with EFI fuel pressure = bad bad bad. Not that that's what you were suggesting, just makin' sure no one tries that at home.


or in my case I used an AN -6 union and flared the line. You could also double flare it and use a union.

Whew! Much better idea.
 
Nooooo!!! Compression fitting with EFI fuel pressure = bad bad bad. Not that that's what you were suggesting, just makin' sure no one tries that at home.

Go to your local NAPA and look on the shelf for their EFI repair kits for things like fuel filters. They will have a compression fitting. You won't even break 80 PSI on any of these systems. I have used one of those before on an older GM car and it never had a single issue...and we're talking years and years later.

If it were brake lines i'd agree with you....but those need to hold at least 30x the pressure.
 
first you need to build a rotisserie,, then install your fuel lines,,Just kidding. At least you get a good view. Home brewed frame connectors with 3/8 stainless feed line and 1/4 alum return. I welded pipe nipples thru the cross-member for strength and no more weather gets inside the frame. If you use compression fittings on stainless line you need fittings for stainless, the brass is too soft to seal. Find a hydraulic hose/ fitting shop that carries the fittings (Swaglock). Stainless 3/8 tube to 1/4 NPT adapter or 3/8 tube to -6AN. They ain't cheap.
 

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I have the Hotchkis frame connectors...and after they were on, I switched to a 3/8 line for EFI. You'll need to cut it in half about right near where the front seat is to get it in. You can use a compression union to put it back together...or in my case I used an AN -6 union and flared the line. You could also double flare it and use a union.

This is what I had to do, cut it in half right under the passenger seat, and then double flared it and used a union.
 
Go to your local NAPA and look on the shelf for their EFI repair kits for things like fuel filters. They will have a compression fitting. You won't even break 80 PSI on any of these systems. I have used one of those before on an older GM car and it never had a single issue...and we're talking years and years later.

If it were brake lines i'd agree with you....but those need to hold at least 30x the pressure.

It's not the pressure, it's whether you tighten it accurately. That said, I wouldn't do it if you are starting from scratch just do it the right way with -AN fittings.
 
My lines are one piece back to front (of course I didn't have anything in the way) but the fittings I'm referring to are for the end connections to the flexible lines.
 
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