Are /6 torsion bars the same as 318?

I don't understand why people think the car has to ride like a go-kart in order to "handle". Don't think you have to use 1.12" torsion bars. Some people say they like them. But they certainly aren't necessary. I think my 67 FB handles great ON THE STREET with .890 bars and front and rear sway bars. I used to run backroad rallies all the time, and keep up with sports cars.

Remember, the sway bars control body roll when you are cornering. The torsion bar is there to soak up bumps in the road, and control weight transfer (mainly under braking). Massively stiff torsion bars will help prevent nose dive on hard braking, which does lead to understeer, but you can get through a corner fast in other ways -- brake on the straight and gas it through the turns works better on these front-heavy cars, anyway.

A car that is sprung too stiffly for the road conditions (think of most county roads, for instance) will have one or more wheels unloaded a great deal of the time -- an unloaded wheel has zero traction. My philosophy for real-world roads (not "track day") is compliant springs and stiff sway bars with stiff bushings (or heim joints). But my FB ran very well at Willow Springs on the Mopar Spring Fling track day -- it was limited by HP (stock 273 4bbl), not grip or braking.