Slant 6 Turbo 68Dart Project
David,
I'm glad to learn that you're finally getting paid for the work you did on that remodeling job. It's very depressing to make the considerable effort to do something like that and not get paid. One of life's little lessons, learned... (If possible, next time, get the money "up-front.)
I am happy to hear that you will consider a forged reciprocating assemble for the new motor. That will provide benefits for as long as you have the motor. Being able to run 20 pounds of boost willl make a holy terror out of your Dart and most V-8s will not be a problem any more...
One thing I would heartily recommend; A part of this cylinder-sealing at higher boost levels is effective head gasket tech. O-Rings become a necessity. Most folks (but, not me,) use a 1-piece, copper gasket along with the O-Rings, and, that may well be the best course of action. I don't have any advice on that score, but, I didn't install the O-Rings when I initially built the short block; I waited until the engine was in the car, and had been run for awhile. There's a long atory as to why I did it that way, but, suffice it to say that, that was big mistake, because it is SO MUCH EASIER to do the O-Rings when you are doing the piston/rod installation... believe me. I caused it to be a lot harder than it would have been, by doing it the way I did...
Iskenderian will rent the cutter to you; you don't have to buy it, and, it's pretty much fool-proof (I hod no trouble cutting quickly and accurately with it, for instance, and I have ten thumbs...) The cutter it comes with automatically sets the depth and width of the groove, so, you cannot do it wrong. All you have to set is the diameter of the circle. It also comes with O-Ring wire (copper.)
Do yourself a favor and rent this tool; you'll be glad you did! Just my 2-cents'....:cheers:
I'll likely put in different pistons. What's going to happen is I thought $350 was a good deal for a really clean engine and transmission, regardless of what's in it internally, at the very least the cam and pistons are coming out. The rest I will have to take inspection as to what was done. The water pump and all the "external" stuff looks like it might warrant a replacement. The fuel pump is just coming off all together, etc... there's still a need to open the engine up.
I'm also going to try building a intake/ exhaust manifold setup while I have the engine out like this. But looking at the motor in general, it's pretty nice, and not a hydraulic head setup like the other engine I was looking at. Also, luckily he did come and drop it off, and I forklifted it out of his truck into an engine cradle. Eventually when I have a moment I'll be building a set of stands so it sits above the engine cradle where I can work on it. For now it's just stowed safely like this with styrofoam around it, and now tarped.
David,
I'm glad to learn that you're finally getting paid for the work you did on that remodeling job. It's very depressing to make the considerable effort to do something like that and not get paid. One of life's little lessons, learned... (If possible, next time, get the money "up-front.)
I am happy to hear that you will consider a forged reciprocating assemble for the new motor. That will provide benefits for as long as you have the motor. Being able to run 20 pounds of boost willl make a holy terror out of your Dart and most V-8s will not be a problem any more...
One thing I would heartily recommend; A part of this cylinder-sealing at higher boost levels is effective head gasket tech. O-Rings become a necessity. Most folks (but, not me,) use a 1-piece, copper gasket along with the O-Rings, and, that may well be the best course of action. I don't have any advice on that score, but, I didn't install the O-Rings when I initially built the short block; I waited until the engine was in the car, and had been run for awhile. There's a long atory as to why I did it that way, but, suffice it to say that, that was big mistake, because it is SO MUCH EASIER to do the O-Rings when you are doing the piston/rod installation... believe me. I caused it to be a lot harder than it would have been, by doing it the way I did...
Iskenderian will rent the cutter to you; you don't have to buy it, and, it's pretty much fool-proof (I hod no trouble cutting quickly and accurately with it, for instance, and I have ten thumbs...) The cutter it comes with automatically sets the depth and width of the groove, so, you cannot do it wrong. All you have to set is the diameter of the circle. It also comes with O-Ring wire (copper.)
Do yourself a favor and rent this tool; you'll be glad you did! Just my 2-cents'....:cheers:
