What should it run?

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No no, it wont be driven to work and left in parking lots! Hahaha, i could never do that to it! It is a 1969 Dart Swinger 340, LM23P9B car. It will be driven every day for leisure and to go places like my uncles and brothers house, stuff like that. For all intensive purposes, its not a drag car by no means, and to be honest, it may see the strip once in its lifetime. We built it to be two things only; bad ***, and fun. Just something to enjoy! I'm 21 so I should be able to enjoy the hell out of it! This is now my second Mopar, my first being another LM23P9B 4 speed car and my first car being a 2008 Mustang GT i built into a 520 horse (at the tire) turbo car.
 
I ran 7.0's on motor and 6.40's on a 100 shot in my street Demon at 7 different tracks and not one time was anything said about a roll bar. Well one time a guy running the tree said don't come back unless you put one in it and I said ok I will not be back and he said never mind. I was back the next week end and nothing else was said.
 

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I ran 7.0's on motor and 6.40's on a 100 shot in my street Demon at 7 different tracks and not one time was anything said about a roll bar. Well one time a guy running the tree said don't come back unless you put one in it and I said ok I will not be back and he said never mind. I was back the next week end and nothing else was said.
You live down south, they don't care if you die down there.
 
If its really 500hp and its 2900 all in and it hooks well this is what it should run or pretty close>..if...if...if

Power to Weight Ratio: 5.80
60 Foot E.T. : 1.45
1/8 Mile E.T. : 6.60
1/8 Mile Trap Speed : 102.93
1/4 Mile E.T. : 10.47
1/4 Mile Trap Speed : 128
1/4 Mile Trap RPM : 6,087

mph will give you a good indication of how much "real" hp you have.....
 
I'll say 11:20's in the real world. A lot depends on chassis set up and atmospheric conditions at the track that day.....
 
^^ This ^^ Most of the haters are one of two types, 1 they've never had anything that ran real hard or 2 they don't know to tune one to make it drivable.

I'm going to say it'll run 6.60-.7s in the 1/8. I drove my Dart a bunch and it ran 6.70 in street trim. It never failed to start, wasn't a problem in traffic, no overheating, nothing, just jump in, hit the key and go.

My new build has a solid roller that has well over .700" lift and will have the pi$$ (street) driven out it regularly.


Some of us just understand there's no way a street car set up chassis will ever run what a drag set up chassis car will. That's not hatin', that's just how reality is. I think even a tire-smoking low 12s is fun...lol.
 
Some of us just understand there's no way a street car set up chassis will ever run what a drag set up chassis car will. That's not hatin', that's just how reality is. I think even a tire-smoking low 12s is fun...lol.

Oh I understand, been doing this stuff for a long time. I don't think the OP's set up is what most people think of for a street suspension. I may be reading more into it than I should, he said it had coilover springs on the rear so I'm thinking ladder bars. It may be something completely different though. He also said it would be raced on slicks so it should hook up fine with no unintended long smoky burn outs. And yes I enjoy long smoky burn outs too. lol
 
I ran 7.0's on motor and 6.40's on a 100 shot in my street Demon at 7 different tracks and not one time was anything said about a roll bar. Well one time a guy running the tree said don't come back unless you put one in it and I said ok I will not be back and he said never mind. I was back the next week end and nothing else was said.

Really..man that won't work up here they'll throw ya' right off the track...
 
and answer is, you won't know till ya run it, if I were to guess 12.30's first time out,
I would suggest a single's run. it's probably gonna be a handful.
 
Really..man that won't work up here they'll throw ya' right off the track...

The part I don't understand is you can run 115 mph in the 1/4 without a roll bar but I need one to run 110 mph in the 1/8. Does not make sense.
 
It gives wheel hp and flywheel hp. My motor was dynoed and the Wallace calculator is within 2 hp from the numbers.
 
So for years I was using the Wallace calc as a guide...this one>

http://www.wallaceracing.com/accel-calc.php

With specs on both the cars I ran, the weight/mph/ET always came out as expected on the hp front but it was fly hp?......just as an example of this was the 340 Cuda....10.1 SCR, stock unported 2.02 heads, .590 solid purple cam, strip Dom, 850DP, 1.75 chassis hdrs. that came out at 375hp, the car ran 12.39@108, I used the approx weight of 3550lbs at the line ( all steel car, stock leafs), Cannot see that being 375rwhp with those specs which would make it 432 fly with only a 15% loss, can give you another example of the 440 car.....your thoughts
 
I just did mine and it shows Rear Wheel hp and Flywheel hp.
 
Mid to high 11's. Low to Mid 7's in the 1/8th

I have a very similar combo and that's what I run.

Im in...and now add nos. Nice street car.Nitros cam,converter.and do the rear. On / \off Button..for nos. I like the the 175 jets, second to 3rd. Do I NEED it NO . 14.5 looking duster,maybe 13.9....lol Have Fun...419/727/391 ,my stroker is BUILT for nitros,,Car is 2....500 hp/ plus 175 nos ..675 hp ----.N/A 675 HP will not come ....close? OK Sorta close. LOL,....your car 11.50 or better easy..Test and Tune...jUST do it....10.99 No more 488,light to light..I will miss them.NOT now.I LOVE,ADORE.SMIRK..when i leave Big tubed cars.old school.skinny is in ,Cause i say so.....lol oh,,,ya where is that mustang? GOOD LUCK WITH THAT.my first mopar ever.

















70%20Duster%20-%20Welcome%20Wagon%20-%20Mopar%20Forum&txt=%3Cimg%20src%3D%22http%3A%2F%2Ffarm9.staticflickr.com%2F8143%2F7591520884_da9293bfe7_z.jpg%22%20border%3D%220%22%20alt%3D%22%22%3Ee fun....
 
Like I said use the Wallace I gave a link for earlier, thats flyhp, that works well for most cars and is reasonably accurate, tried it on all my cars and some more I knew the spec on and had the time slip info, once you get to light cars and stockers forget it. The calc that gives both rw/fly is out as it rates drivetrain losses at 10%.

Just input your weight and change the hp numbers till you get what your time slip says.

So what do you guys say a 3950lbs race car with a dyno'd 1050hp motor currently making 970 on the track that hooks and lifts the wheels should ET/mph at out of interest?
 
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