Is This Cam Streetable?

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ILackCreativity

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I plan on building a stock stroke 360 for a 4-speed Duster, 10.5:1 - 10.75:1 compression ratio, good internals, ported Eddies or Procomps, etc. The cam i'm leaning towards is one of Lunati's Voodoo "retro-fit" hydraulic rollers. Specs are as follows:

Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 294/302
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 243/251
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .560/.565
LSA/ICL: 110/106
RPM Range: 2600-6600

Is this reasonable? I'm not familiar with driving a carbureted engine of this caliber on public roads to be honest. Car should be fairly light, no a/c no power steering no power brakes a833 and some decent gear. Not sure on the ratio but it feels like 3.55's+. But I was going to ask before I got ballsy and ordered it and ended up with an engine that's way too temperamental or something.

Anybody here running a cam like this on the street a lot? How does it do
 
I used to have a comparable cam in the 340 that was in my Duster (mine was even a little stronger) with 4.10s and a built 727, 11:1 comp.
I loved it- no streetability/drivability issues at all (other than gas mileage lol).


And not much could touch it:D
 
95teetee said:
I used to have a comparable cam in the 340 that was in my Duster (mine was even a little stronger) with 4.10s and a built 727, 11:1 comp.
I loved it- no streetability/drivability issues at all (other than gas mileage lol).


And not much could touch it:D
Click to expand...

Well thank you sir. That's a nice combo too, did you ever get a E.T. on it?
 
I used to cruise Main Street, Salinas, California on weekends in my bracket racer with an Isky 1012-C in a four-speed 273 65 Valiant with 4.56 rear end. Not a problem if you have plenty of gas money, don't mind the noise, and limit your freeway cruise speed to about 55 MPH. I used a 600 CFM Holley double pumper, 10:5 to 1 forged pistons and headers, of course. Camshaft specs:


Application: All out drags. 5000 stall. 4.88-5.13 axle ratio. 850+CFM
Carb. 12:1 compr

RPM-Range: 4500-8000
Value Lift Int/Ext: .580/.580
Value Lash Hot Int/Ext: .028/.028
ADV Duration Int/Ext: 312/312
.050 Duration Int/Ext: 274/274
Lobe Center: 104
 

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ILackCreativity said:
I plan on building a stock stroke 360 for a 4-speed Duster, 10.5:1 - 10.75:1 compression ratio, good internals, ported Eddies or Procomps, etc. The cam i'm leaning towards is one of Lunati's Voodoo "retro-fit" hydraulic rollers. Specs are as follows:

Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 294/302
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 243/251
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .560/.565
LSA/ICL: 110/106
RPM Range: 2600-6600

Is this reasonable? I'm not familiar with driving a carbureted engine of this caliber on public roads to be honest. Car should be fairly light, no a/c no power steering no power brakes a833 and some decent gear. Not sure on the ratio but it feels like 3.55's+. But I was going to ask before I got ballsy and ordered it and ended up with an engine that's way too temperamental or something.
Anybody here running a cam like this on the street a lot? How does it do
Click to expand...

Everybody loves a big cam; but ask yourself why you want such a monster.
With 3.55s and 27 inch tires, you are gonna want a lot of TC to make it work. Then consider that 6600rpm will get you 61 Mph EDIT in 2.45 low.Then consider that the power doesn't start until about 5000(45mph)edit, still in low.Is that what you want? A car that is killer from 45 to 61? And it will most likely blow thru the tires the entire way?
I binderdundat. It mostly sucked....This cam will suck your Dcr down to 7.86ish, Which is about stock 360 territory. Granted your cylinder pressure might be 155 ish. What this means is that at low rpm settings,she will feel like a good 360, and that's all. So on your way to 45 mph, you will need that big TC,or more gear, just to stay ahead of the stock boys.
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I hate to go and tell a guy what he needs but your combo is almost exactly like mine;it's scary.So I'll offer my experience instead. And I 'm on my 3rd cam, trying to figure out what is street fun.
-Cam #1 was a 292/292/108-.549(1.6arms)....Too much for me. It ran gangbusters from 5500 to 7000. That is way into speeding territory with 3.55s and 27s.
-Next I installed a 270/276/110-.538/.549 cam. This cam was everything I had hoped for.Gobs of torque right off idle, enough power to go 12.9/106, and with a 600VS, I could lean it out to get 32mpgUS. That was a sweet cam
-Next I installed a 276/286/110--.549/.571 cam. One might think such a small change in cams wouldn't amount to much. One would be wrong.I lost some first gear torque, which I got back by going to a 3.09 first gear(up from 2.66). I gained a top end rush. And a much fatter midrange. I lost the ability for gas mileage. This combo will blow thru new295s in 2nd at any speed up to 50mph by just standing on it. If they are already spinning, as in the car is accelerating, they will never stop till I shift at 82mph(I also have 3.55s)
So now it is continuous fun from the first stomp to at least 82mph.
The 276 cam brought my Dcr up to 8.6, and the cylinder pressure up to near175psi. I am very pleased with this, and will run it this way for as long as it hangs together. It runs 93 in the 1/8 with no tuning at all. It has been giving me giggles since 2004 like this, 100,000 miles or more. Oh and FWIF; it has always burned 87E10 from day 1.

The 276 cam I got from Hughes. It was an HE3037AL- .050 specs of 230*/237*
 
I don't get why people will go no compromise on cam but put the brakes on gears. With 3.55:1 you'll never be in your powerband 99% of the time.
 
I run a 360 with near the same spec but it's a solid FT, 3.55 gear with a 727. Has a good 4,400 stall. It has a noticeable idle, runs great down low due to the quality stall. I run drag radials and it's like being shot out of a cannon when you nail it. The 4 gear might be a lot more problematic, probably best to go a little milder if your going to use a sticky tire.
 
AJ, his car is a manual 4spd. He also never mentioned his tire size.

273, your 1st sentence in your post makes no sense to what I have read prior.
The second sentence is opinion on what you think. Once he takes off, he proceeds into the rpm range that the cam works in and stays within on every shift there after. So, the only time he is out of the cams range is off idle from a dead stop until he gets to that range to continue to drive in.

It would be that was for most any cam until you get to approx. 219@.050 cam duration.

Your constantly nay saying without good reason. Why?

I LACK

Let's fact find here first. Post your tire size and know you gear ratio.
For a good street bound ride with an a ilty for the Hwy. Look at a cam of approx. 230@.050.
Yes your above cam is streetable, but not so much with big tires and 3.55's. I'd move you up to 4.10's or better depending on tire size.




With 3.55's and a manual trans, I'd call the cam a step big for the combo myself but it'll work well enough. Even more so if it is used on the Hwy.
 
ILackCreativity said:
I plan on building a stock stroke 360 for a 4-speed Duster, 10.5:1 - 10.75:1 compression ratio, good internals, ported Eddies or Procomps, etc. The cam i'm leaning towards is one of Lunati's Voodoo "retro-fit" hydraulic rollers. Specs are as follows:

Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 294/302
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 243/251
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .560/.565
LSA/ICL: 110/106
RPM Range: 2600-6600

Is this reasonable? I'm not familiar with driving a carbureted engine of this caliber on public roads to be honest. Car should be fairly light, no a/c no power steering no power brakes a833 and some decent gear. Not sure on the ratio but it feels like 3.55's+. But I was going to ask before I got ballsy and ordered it and ended up with an engine that's way too temperamental or something.

Anybody here running a cam like this on the street a lot? How does it do
Click to expand...

Yes w/a good tune and I ran one a bit bigger in my daily driver 360 for years even loaded w/my drums for gigs.................3.91`s and 26-27 inch hoosier qtp`s......
 
A 284/528 mechanical mopar cam, 241 at .050, is very streetable with a 4 speed. I have one in a 340 and I love it. This cam will be no different.

Being a 4 speed gives you plenty of room to move on the camshaft.

Get the initial timing right and a lot of issues will not be present. Going to want 20ish+ with 10-11 to 1 compression.
 
I'm running that same cam in a 408 with ported shady dell eddies. 71 Duster pro-touring with 3.23 gears to tame it a bit , but its still a beast.
 
Rumblefish360 you've been loving my post lately lol

I didn't naysay, streetable is subjective. Can he drive it like that he sure can.

A 3.55:1 is a compromised gear for a stock 360 A Body if looking for the best 1/4 mile time nevermind a large cammed one.

I was just making a general statement, I see why people pick 3.55 it's a good all around street gear. But it is arguably the 1st step in performance gear. And when people pick it to me that signals that all out performance is not there main concern so it makes me curious why to pick a overly large cam then.

And as to the he won't be in the powerband 99% of the time is kind of true. Below 3000 rpm won't be that engines strong suit. So anything under 25 mph in 1st, 35 mph in 2nd, 45 mph in 3rd and 65 map in 4 th aka normal driving.
 
All depends on your definition of "streetable", smooth idle, good gas mileage = no. Me personally, I've driven that size cam in a solid FT motor street motor and considered it streetable. The rest of the motor calls for a cam of that size, so go for it and have fun.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Everybody loves a big cam; but ask yourself why you want such a monster.
With 3.55s and 27 inch tires, you are gonna want a lot of TC to make it work. Then consider that 6600rpm will get you 61 Mph.Then consider that the power doesn't start until about 5000(45mph).Is that what you want? A car that is killer from 45 to 61? And it will most likely blow thru the tires the entire way?
I binderdundat. It mostly sucked....
Click to expand...

Your math is way off. 3.55s with 27 inch tall tires will be between 3000 - 3500 @ 65 mph.
 
lilcuda said:
Your math is way off. 3.55s with 27 inch tall tires will be between 3000 - 3500 @ 65 mph.
Click to expand...

His numbers are for first gear I believe. I don't think the OP posted which gear ratio 4 speed he has though, but his numbers should be close, if not correct.
 
273, I think you drive slow according to your mob and gear your in. Short shifting for sure.
Yep, love your posts! Your a true car guy stating your point of view. Don't change a thing, well, maybe except the mph vs. gear your in should be higher. LMAO:violent1:
 
ILackCreativity said:
I plan on building a stock stroke 360 for a 4-speed Duster, 10.5:1 - 10.75:1 compression ratio, good internals, ported Eddies or Procomps, etc. The cam i'm leaning towards is one of Lunati's Voodoo "retro-fit" hydraulic rollers. Specs are as follows:

Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 294/302
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 243/251
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .560/.565
LSA/ICL: 110/106
RPM Range: 2600-6600

Is this reasonable? I'm not familiar with driving a carbureted engine of this caliber on public roads to be honest. Car should be fairly light, no a/c no power steering no power brakes a833 and some decent gear. Not sure on the ratio but it feels like 3.55's+. But I was going to ask before I got ballsy and ordered it and ended up with an engine that's way too temperamental or something.

Anybody here running a cam like this on the street a lot? How does it do
Click to expand...

As an engine builder I get asked this question almost every day. "What cam should I run?"

I read your post and there is not near enough info to give you what I feel would be an accurate answer. What carb? What intake? Then there are the barrage of subjective questions I ask like : What is the quickest car you've been in or driven? What is your daily driver? How will you primarily use the car? Street? Dragstrip? Commute to work on nice days? How long is the commute? How much bumper to bumper traffic? What fuel do you plan to pump into it day after day? etc..

Just by what is in bold above has me thinking you are younger and don't have much experience with an old school style musclecar. To make a long winded explanation shorter--YES that cam will more than likely be too temperamental for the 99% of the time you don't have your foot into the carpet. With the parts you have layed out with a stock stroke 360 the cam will not be your limiting factor. Go with a much smaller cam for much better driveability. I am talking about off idle torque and part throttle "tip-in" , idle quality (plugs NOT loading up), cold start, and overall driveability which equals ENJOYMENT.

Provide more info and receive better info. J.Rob
 
lilcuda said:
Your math is way off. 3.55s with 27 inch tall tires will be between 3000 - 3500 @ 65 mph.
Click to expand...

I assumed he had a TF, so ratios are 2.45-1.45-1.00.

MPH= (rpm x Td x 3.1416)/1056 x R1 x R2 = not rocket science. Had you had your thinking-cap on you could have figured this out in just a few seconds.

(5000 x 27 x 3.1416)/ (1056 x 3.55 x 2.45) = 46.177mph@ zero slip

(6600 x 27 x 3.1416)/(1056 x 3.55 x 2.45) = 61ish @ zero slip

Post #5 edited to clarify.
 
For a streeter to show up at the track occasionally with 3.55s is not the end of the world. An engine of ILack's caliber might go 106.
So [106 x 1056 x 3.55 x 1.45(2nd)]/27 x 3.1416 =6800rpm or so.A stick car would use 3rd gear 1.40ratio, for about 6560rpm.
It won't 60ft,or ET well, but the Mph will tell you a lot about how much power she's making. From that, it's easy to back-figure the cars potential, with the right gears and suspension mods.Then you have to decide if you want to spend the coin to make it happen.
For a streeter to ET/60ft well for it's mph, you need to make compromises, and spend money.It often takes the streetability right out of it(strokers excepted).
 
ILackCreativity said:
I plan on building a stock stroke 360 for a 4-speed Duster, 10.5:1 - 10.75:1 compression ratio, good internals, ported Eddies or Procomps, etc. The cam i'm leaning towards is one of Lunati's Voodoo "retro-fit" hydraulic rollers. Specs are as follows:

Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 294/302
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 243/251
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .560/.565
LSA/ICL: 110/106
RPM Range: 2600-6600

Is this reasonable? I'm not familiar with driving a carbureted engine of this caliber on public roads to be honest. Car should be fairly light, no a/c no power steering no power brakes a833 and some decent gear. Not sure on the ratio but it feels like 3.55's+. But I was going to ask before I got ballsy and ordered it and ended up with an engine that's way too temperamental or something.

Anybody here running a cam like this on the street a lot? How does it do
Click to expand...

I too am running a Lunati Voodoo albeit one that is two steps below yours.

Lunati Voodoo (part# 20200711):
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 270/279
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 219/227
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .515/.530
LSA/ICL: 112/106
RPM Range: 1800-5800

Excellent street manners and great midrange power. Very smooth but healthy sounding idle. I had many people compliment the sound of the exhaust. I currently have 9.7:1 compression.
I am running an automatic so it does change things a little.

The cam I had before however was a Comp Mutha' Thumpr.
The cam performed pretty good but was a PITA to tune right. The exhaust stunk pretty bad because of that. I had many comment the smell vs. the sound of the exhaust. Rough idle as well because it was designed for lope and not performance.
The words I would choose to describe this cam would be, "touchy" or "temperamental".

The stats of the Mutha' Thumpr: (Hyd. roller)
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 291/311
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 235/249
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .522/.509
LSA/ICL: 107/102
RPM Range: 2200-5900

.
.
.
Ok, have you looked at one that is one step below yours, it does seem a little more street friendly: (One I was really thinking of getting at first... Still might with my next build)
Part# 20200712
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 282/290
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 231/239
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .535/.550
LSA/ICL: 110/106
RPM Range: 2200-6200
According to Lunati's website: Likes up- graded intake, carb and exhaust. Needs 2800 RPM stall converter in most cases. Requires 9.5:1 compression.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I assumed he had a TF, so ratios are 2.45-1.45-1.00.

MPH= (rpm x Td x 3.1416)/1056 x R1 x R2 = not rocket science. Had you had your thinking-cap on you could have figured this out in just a few seconds.

(5000 x 27 x 3.1416)/ (1056 x 3.55 x 2.45) = 46.177mph@ zero slip

(6600 x 27 x 3.1416)/(1056 x 3.55 x 2.45) = 61ish @ zero slip

Post #5 edited to clarify.
Click to expand...

Yes, I guess I should have tried to read your mind through the Internet. You made it sound like you were talking about top speed. At the end of along day, I'm not going to try to reverse engineer somebody's calculations about gear ratio. I just used my experience with driving many different cars over the years.
 
rumblefish360 said:
AJ, his car is a manual 4spd. He also never mentioned his tire size.
Click to expand...

Oops I missed the a833 part.I assumed 27s for ease and constancy of calculations, and because that is what 295/50-15s are and he's gonna need 'em.
Ok but most of what I said still applies.
Except with an M/T there are many,many, times when the engine is stuck in the sub TC stall zone, and you don't have any help from the missing TC. See with a loose TC that buzzes the engine up to 3000 or 3500, before much of anything happens, your engine can be way off tune down there, and it hardly affects anything.But with an M/T the tune DOES have to be sharp down there, cuz on the street you are gonna spend an awful lot of time in that zone.
-This proposed cam is rated 2600 up right? The cam grinder is telling you allready that this cam has problems below 2600.Well with 3.55s and 27s, this makes 22mph. Think about that.
Do you really want to rev it up and slip it out, every single time you take off?
What if traffic slows to some sub-22 mph, and that big cam goes blubbery?
Now let's say you are just accelerating to a 35 mph cruising speed. Well, that would be 2970rpm in 2nd, which is a little buzy, so you drop it into 3rd/2166 which puts you back in the no-go zone for that cam.
But let's say you are heading out on the hi-way, so you take 2nd out to 3200 and shift(38mph) into 3rd@2351,(oh-boy, in the no-go zone again), but you manage to get through that and finally at 65 you drop it into direct @ 2873 and you are good to go. For a while at least.
-I call it the no-go zone, not because you can't go there, but because the cam is likely operating in reversion there, and the Dcr is falling rapidly, and the engine is just operating way out of it's comfort zone, and unless you are a real sharp tuner, she's not gonna give you any giggles, in that zone, so you might as well not go there.

-The point is this;If you have a stick-car,3.55s, and you drive like I do(normally), there had better be some punch from idle to 3000.Street-Tuning a cam that is operating in reversion,With the Dcr jumping up and down; is a PITA.
 
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