zac_F71 said

A big block swap is not for the faint of heart.. if you give up easy on stuff, this may not be for you.. not trying to talk you out of it but it just not easy. This was my first time doing the swap as well

That aside - here is the short list depending on your car's options - plan on it doubling any costs/time you may have planned when the time comes to get stuff done -

Reuse the slant 6 engine harness - have to shorten/legthen a couple wires = plug and play
with a big block motor

If 3/4sp-
short tail 833 like said
driveshaft - I'm sure custom length
car trans mount/ Xmember if different from an automatic trans piece
speedo gear/cable if different from an auto or what's in the car
car bell housing, flywheel/clutch
modified Z bar or hydraulic clutch setup

If auto-
A727
same slant 6 X member/mount
custom length driveshaft
3,000rpm stall converter minimum
factory floor shift or aftermarket cable shifter
Lokar kick down cable if no manual valve body
$70 throttle cable bracket from eBay
- much easier route in my book

Schumacher/ trans-Dapt swap mounts
Schumacher torque strap, and motor mount shims
V8 radiator and WP housing to match outlet sides
B body pass side, C body driverside manifolds OR-
TTi, or Schumacher headers - TTi headers do not fit PS, they can be made to fit with pounding a few of the tubes though
2.5" minimum exhaust system
8 3/4, ford 8.8, ford 9", or 3/4 ton JY Dana 60 axle (<- If I did it over again this is what I'd do)
3/8" fuel sending unit, and front to rear line
disc brakes in front minimum
US Car Tool subframe connectors and drive shaft loop
Mini starter from newer 5.9 magnum truck

These are the minimum parts needed to make it easier to install and get it running, it will still be difficult beyond this as these car's were not designed for this.. couple pics of my car to give you an idea.. had my engine in and out over 6 times fitting and refitting everything - (383/727 71 Demon with CPPA/TTi based 2" headers)

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