Frame or chassis options for A bodies

JoesEdge said
You're the second guy to endorse those SPC arms. They look cool and all, but they're quite a bit more expensive and they don't even come with ball joints so that's an extra expense.

I don't see too much difference between the Reilly and Hotchkis arms other than price. Their design are quite similar, also there isn't too much negative comments over Reilly Motorsports quality. That's something I factored into the equation.

The Hotchkis ones are kind of a unique design, they are not really just a stock tubular UCA, they have the ball joint relocated a bit. Supposedly this helps the geometry. The car handles good with them and so far so good on them holding up. The RMS ones look like stock geometry tubular arms to me. I have no issue with RMS quality as I have his strut rods on my car and we just put them on my friend's 71 Demon last weekend too.

The SPC are nice as they can be adjusted on the car as 72blunblu mentioned. I actually had to go back and remove my hotchkis and put the rod ends NOT where they were in the kit to get the caster I wanted. I would not have had to do that with the SPC ones. I did do the alignment at home in my garage with some somewhat budget tools, but it turned out perfect. I also have some concern about the longevity of the rod ends, so the delrin bushings will work better in that regard. Upper ball joints are $18/side so not the biggest deal. I basically stole a set of hotchkis ones where someone ordered the wrong part and just needed them gone so that's what the car got.

I've heard of proforged, but they're made overseas in Taiwan. That might not mean much since I hear Moog is being made overseas as well. Bummer. Moog might be better priced. I'll have to compare.

If you can get the USA moogs, fine. If they are the overseas ones...I think they are China. I read a topic about some NIB moog lowers for this application having loose balls in them from day one in the Moparts handling forum - Rylispro IIRC...tracks an E-body. Pretty scary stuff. Usually Taiwan stuff is relatively good quality anymore, I'd certainly trust it over anywhere else in Asia that's not Japan or South Korean made. I have some quite good quality tools made there as well. So I wouldn't be that afraid of them.

One thing that I have noticed, some of the torsion bar guys have mentioned that the ride quality "is not so bad" or "rides like new Mustang" with stiffer bars but I don't think anyone with coli-overs have mentioned what the ride quality is like on a daily basis.

Yes, that is my feedback too. It actually rides better with the 18's than the 15's on the same suspension as well. Ride is not bad at all, and the roads suck in MI. My pickup is a lot worse.

rustycraig2003 said
hey goldduster how are you,I have a question for you what size rims do you have for yr 275"s ,i have 15 in centerlines,,they are almost 10 in wide ,would 275 fit ,I d like to put 295 but not sure about opening up the tubs,,i have a 65 dart ,,thanks for any input Russell

They are 18x9 +35 offset. But a Duster probably has significantly more clearance than a 65 dart in the wheelwells. You won't be able to do it in 15's. The 18's are needed to go over the tie rod so it doesn't rub.