I have a complete fill neck out of a Saturn 4 door. It has a check ball/seat insert near the bottom of it and I've given some thought to incorporating it into the existing fill neck just to see if it made a difference in filling. I'm sure it would make a difference in cornering.
filler neck modification
- Thread starter kielbasavw
- Start date
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rod7515
Well-Known Member
I've read this thread quite a few times and I'm still wondering if there is any definite answer for solving this issue. I took some pics of my stock factory neck. The first pic below you can see that the original vent is longer than the filler neck and it is not centered in the filler tube. The larger half is the bottom of the tube leaving a smaller half for venting.
View attachment DSCN0525.jpg
In this pic you can see how the factory cut small slots in the vent to allow the venting to exit. Of course this is the top side of the filler.
View attachment DSCN0524.jpg
In this pic you can see how the vent is added to the side of the neck using 1/4" tube. Also when the filler is in place the vent is not straight up but more to the side. Then the pipe heads towards the front of the car about 2 feet before it turns around and heads back to the neck then turns about 90* following the neck down to the tank before it exits the trunk thru the rubber gasket which allows it to vent outside the trunk.
View attachment DSCN0528.jpg
View attachment DSCN0519.jpg
SO, some have gone with the washer or restrictor in the neck and seem to be satisfied but others have said it didn't cure their problem. Others have thought a larger vent inside the neck. Then there are those that believe it is the fault of the gas nozzles. I remember when I was 16 years old working at my dads garage in the early 70's and often getting gas baths as I filled customers cars with fuel. I've done the gas nozzle at every angle from side ways to up side down. Seemed to be worse in the heat of the summer.
I can cut the neck open and do any or all the mods mentioned. I was also thinking about increasing the size of the exterior vent tube to 1/2" by drilling out the original 1/4" and using this fitting.
View attachment DSCN0517.jpg
If I do a larger vent should I put it straight up on the top of the filling tube instead of towards the side? Also should I add some additional slots in the original vent inside the filler or just remove it and add something different?
The tank itself is not vented in any way and I have gone with an electric pump and a return line back to the tank. Does that add a need for any other venting?
I'm like many others in this thread that have said their cars are not ready yet but they plan on having fresh paint when it hits the road. Like them, I don't want that fresh paint being washed off from fuel spills!
Thanks in advance for your help
Rod
View attachment DSCN0525.jpg
In this pic you can see how the factory cut small slots in the vent to allow the venting to exit. Of course this is the top side of the filler.
View attachment DSCN0524.jpg
In this pic you can see how the vent is added to the side of the neck using 1/4" tube. Also when the filler is in place the vent is not straight up but more to the side. Then the pipe heads towards the front of the car about 2 feet before it turns around and heads back to the neck then turns about 90* following the neck down to the tank before it exits the trunk thru the rubber gasket which allows it to vent outside the trunk.
View attachment DSCN0528.jpg
View attachment DSCN0519.jpg
SO, some have gone with the washer or restrictor in the neck and seem to be satisfied but others have said it didn't cure their problem. Others have thought a larger vent inside the neck. Then there are those that believe it is the fault of the gas nozzles. I remember when I was 16 years old working at my dads garage in the early 70's and often getting gas baths as I filled customers cars with fuel. I've done the gas nozzle at every angle from side ways to up side down. Seemed to be worse in the heat of the summer.
I can cut the neck open and do any or all the mods mentioned. I was also thinking about increasing the size of the exterior vent tube to 1/2" by drilling out the original 1/4" and using this fitting.
View attachment DSCN0517.jpg
If I do a larger vent should I put it straight up on the top of the filling tube instead of towards the side? Also should I add some additional slots in the original vent inside the filler or just remove it and add something different?
The tank itself is not vented in any way and I have gone with an electric pump and a return line back to the tank. Does that add a need for any other venting?
I'm like many others in this thread that have said their cars are not ready yet but they plan on having fresh paint when it hits the road. Like them, I don't want that fresh paint being washed off from fuel spills!
Thanks in advance for your help
Rod
I saw a a body with two fill necks, was fabbed up, to fill he would just remove the passenger side cap and fill it. At the time i said WTF? Makes sense. He vented thru the extra fill neck. looking for picture.
Very much agree with posts 77&78 pumps have way too much pressure. I have the problem with the 70 Dart and with my 04 Jeep I just use the lower pump catch on the gas handle and just enjoy the view. I missing something with the flap valve in the neck, please correct me if I am wrong. But in the early years of gas and cars (the leaded years) the gas nozzles were large. Unleaded gas and cars were now becoming the norm the gas pump nozzle smaller, made to fit into the flap valve in the neck of the tank. The larger leaded gas nozzle would not fit, thus you cannot use leaded gas in a unleaded car, defeating the emission laws for that year of vehicle.
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