wheel studs have a look

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Snake

Snake

Mopar Nut
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Just started to remove the old wheel studs on my 74 Duster.Not sure if they gave me the right studs or not.I installed 2 new ones they went in with a bit of effort but in the pic the 1 on the right new stud, you can see a little space between the knurl and the hole, the 1 on the left looks like a tight fit.What ya think.Here are the old and new.When i grab the new stud it feels tight no movement,but unsure.the new stud has abn 103 the old has nothing .
 

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Aftermarket studs may not match the factory ones exactly. I guess if it was me, I'd measure the diameters of the knurled area of the factory and replacement studs with calipers. And maybe even count the knurls. If they are the same you should be good.

Are the new ones the brighter ones? If so, the knurl length looks shorter than original but
have you tried bolting on a wheel yet to see if they torque to spec?
 
That wouldn't bother me one bit Don.
If I was at all concerned about it I would red locktite them and put a wheel on to tighten them down against until the locktite set.
About the worst thing that could happen if they are not as tight as the old ones is when you changed a tire it could push a stud out if it was that loose.
Once they are in and have a wheel on and tight there isn't going to be a problem anyway.

If you want to do the locktite thing and don't have wheels yet, you can use the nuts to pull the studs all the way in.
 
Put a wheel on other side that is original. Make sure length difference old vs new can be overcome with lugnuts.
Use spacers/ washers to pull stud in so you dont strip out knurled area when pulling them in.
Loctite on knurled section will help.
Also once installed you can tack weld the back to hold them.Had to do that with dads as a couple stripped out.

Why are you changing them?
 
I am trying my hardest to get my new SS Cragers on with 255 60 15,i did a test fit wow i have only 3/8 to maybe 1/2 from tire to spring.Now I know why some people buys cars done no problims to deal with.
 
Snake said:
I am trying my hardest to get my new SS Cragers on with 255 60 15,i did a test fit wow i have only 3/8 to maybe 1/2 from tire to spring.Now I know why some people buys cars done no problims to deal with.
Click to expand...

Oh, but it's so much fun to do it yourself. :D
 
4spdragtop said:
Put a wheel on other side that is original. Make sure length difference old vs new can be overcome with lugnuts.
Use spacers/ washers to pull stud in so you dont strip out knurled area when pulling them in.
Loctite on knurled section will help.
Also once installed you can tack weld the back to hold them.Had to do that with dads as a couple stripped out.

Why are you changing them?
Click to expand...

There to long for my Cragers someone installed thoes studs and than found out they had to install a 1/4 inch spacer to get the ralleys on,also the body strip the threasd on the old studs had a hard time geting the rims off I cant even get new lugs started.
 
Snake said:
There to long for my Cragers someone installed thoes studs and than found out they had to install a 1/4 inch spacer to get the ralleys on,also the body strip the threasd on the old studs had a hard time geting the rims off I cant even get new lugs started.
Click to expand...

I would weld them on the back. Flat tire on the road side and the stud spins? Good luck changing the tire.
 
I just converted my 62 Savoy from left to right studs. The ones the book called for were wrong, period, wrong. I took my old stud down and we found a match, and they have knurl all the way across the mounting area as the factory style. Most are knurled like the one you show, but the right ones are out there. Unfortunately I didn't get a box with them or I could give you the part number. I found a couple that were very close, and the one you have looks like one of them. They went in easy. When I found the proper fit, I had to shorten them (lugnut on to proper length and zip disc the excess, screw the nut off to clean threads) but I feel 100% confident I won't have a spinning stud on the side of the road!
 
Well I just don't trust the new studs I had a hell of a time getting the old ones out.So i thought I would remove the 2 that i just installed i barely wack it with my 3 1/2 BFH and they pop out.thanks guys for your help.Off to Napa tomorrow hopefully i can get the right ones.Wish me luck.
 
Just take an old one with you and they can use a caliper to check them.
P.S. I don't know if you guys have Silver Automotive over there but they were cheaper than NAPA.
 
All the studs are out.Me thinks its going to be a lot harder pulling the new ones in.So how do i keep the axle from spinning?
 
Go to the Dorman web site. They supply studs to the auto parts stores, and the site shows thread size, diameters, knurl depth, and overall length. I'm sure you can find something to match the originals.
 
gdrill said:
It's not hard if you have an impact! I just use a couple spacer washers and they go in easily.
Click to expand...

Some good grease on washers, threads and knurl and use an old nut turned over flat side down.
 
Well snowing like hell,but i went to 5 parts stores in my area,NOTHING no one was willing to take the time to figure what stud i need,1 guy out his tool to measure the knurl and got 6.6 witch is my new stud the old 1 is 6.8 even with that he could not find the right stud.The phone was ringing off the hook so i think they just don't want to spend the time with a customer who is right in front of them,or they just know there job.The place that sent me the new stud is going to measure the new stud and add a few thou and see if he can can help.In short i may have to by new axles,not a fan of welding the stud either.I am going to finish this car and get out of this hobby, I have had enough.:banghead:
 
Snake said:
Well snowing like hell,but i went to 5 parts stores in my area,NOTHING no one was willing to take the time to figure what stud i need,1 guy out his tool to measure the knurl and got 6.6 witch is my new stud the old 1 is 6.8 even with that he could not find the right stud.The phone was ringing off the hook so i think they just don't want to spend the time with a customer who is right in front of them,or they just know there job.The place that sent me the new stud is going to measure the new stud and add a few thou and see if he can can help.In short i may have to by new axles,not a fan of welding the stud either.I am going to finish this car and get out of this hobby, I have had enough.:banghead:
Click to expand...

Old ones can go back in the hole unless you stripped splines on stud.
Now for the sake of tack welding a few studs you "need" new axles??
As I said I had THE SAME ISSUE. Had the shop tack weld them and 4 years later I still have orig studs and orig axles. But your $$$
 
4spdragtop said:
Old ones can go back in the hole unless you stripped splines on stud.
Now for the sake of tack welding a few studs you "need" new axles??
As I said I had THE SAME ISSUE. Had the shop tack weld them and 4 years later I still have orig studs and orig axles. But your $$$
Click to expand...

Well its worth a try Steve i may have too pull the axel anyway,how do i pull the axels out of the 8 1/4.
 
thing is guys, if they are not the original stud to begin with, now maybe a proper replacement is too small
 
I think I would want a closer match than that.
 
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