Idler arm problem? Please help

-
O

otto37

Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2016
Messages
13
Reaction score
1
Location
Healdsburg, Ca
Hello,
I'm working on a 1969 Dodge Dart GTS. 383/4speed.
The problem: The steering linkage is hitting the oil pan on the passenger side, when you turn the steering to the right. The steering appears to be roughly the same amount of steering wheel turns in each direction. However, it appears to me that maybe the Idler arm is too short, which is bringing the linkage up to close to the oil pan on the passenger side. I'm wondering if it's the wrong idler arm? Is there a longer Idler arm that I need? Or, could it be the wrong oil pan?

It appears to me that I'm going to quickly have a hole in the oil pan, and a ruined motor. Please help. Thank you, Mike
 

Attachments

  • P2150076.jpg
    36.1 KB · Views: 934
  • P2150077.jpg
    43.5 KB · Views: 746
  • P2150083.jpg
    42.6 KB · Views: 768
A little more info on the car: This car is completely stock and has been restored. All of the suspension items appear new, with no noticeable play. The motor mounts are new. I purchased this car as restored, but have had to sort a few minor details. I'm down to this steering problem, and then I think we are on the road. Thanks for your help.
 
Have you checked alignment/orientation of the motor as it sits in the doghouse? Shifted to DS maybe?
 
These aftermarket pitmans and idlers don't seem to have the same dimensions or tolerances as factory.

IIRC, 383 cars originally got a special 383 only pitman. And I think it was lower. May effect the other side.

Also 383 4 speed cars usually have lived a rough life. Motor changes, fender wall headers, all kinds of people messing with them.

The 383 parts are hard/expensive to come by. Restorers/owners sometimes do whatever to make the parts they have or can afford to fit. I see lots of hacked/repaired 383 K-members for sale. They sell and end eventually end up on someone's car.
 
If its an original 383 car, it could be the wrong PITMAN ARM. The big block & small block pitman arm are different lengths. Maybe its turning to far when you turn it to the right.
 
Thank you for all of the reply. I believe it is the wrong Idler, probably the one the is correct for a small block but not the big block. Can anyone tell me the correct part number for an Idler arm that fits the Big Block? Thank you, Mike
 
otto37 said:
Thank you for all of the reply. I believe it is the wrong Idler, probably the one the is correct for a small block but not the big block. Can anyone tell me the correct part number for an Idler arm that fits the Big Block? Thank you, Mike
Click to expand...

The pitman is different for 383 cars.

All 67-72 A-body small block and slant six is Moog pn K7074. I do not have the old Moog number for the discontinued 383 Pitman arm.

The idler is the same for 383 and small block and /6. The 68-72 A-body ALL idler is Moog pn K7042. That's what should (probably is) on your car.
 
According to the Moog chassis catalog : 68-72 Darts take a K-7042 idler and 73-76 take a K-7086 at the other side of the draglink(centerlink) the pitman arm is a K-7074 EXCEPT for 383 Darts-no number is given. I am curious to know if the draglink is different on 383 cars if the pitman arm is also different-perhaps a different bend at the idler end???????
Hope this is helpful.......
 
I'm pretty sure you have the wrong idler and center link. Here's a pic of a front end from 68-72, the idler comes down from above instead of from underneath. That should move your centerlink down and away from the pan. Also, the centerlink should be tapered the opposite way as yours.






Guess that didn't come out as clear as I wanted.
 

Attachments

  • untitled.jpg
    6.9 KB · Views: 696
I'll try again, this is what the book shows. And as above no number for the BB idler arm. My small block is the opposite of the picture. I think that set up would give you the clearance you want. I added this from the old suspension book. I'm not sure it's accurate, the 67 idler is a one year only. The numbers are from 1984. Good luck with the problem, it looks like you have to raise the motor or lower the center link. One more thing. RR-20492
Pitman Arm (1968-69 with 383 engine)
67 -69 A-Body
 

Attachments

  • WP_20160214_21_06_41_Pro.jpg
    33.3 KB · Views: 704
  • WP_20160214_21_44_13_Pro.jpg
    29.8 KB · Views: 630
Robbie2734 said:
I'll try again, this is what the book shows. And as above no number for the BB idler arm. My small block is the opposite of the picture. I think that set up would give you the clearance you want.
Click to expand...


That picture is for a 73-76 A-body front suspension.

67-72 is different.
 
187 specs to a 68 Fury among other cars. 699 was also useable. Just shim your mounts with a thick washer
 
I think I have figured out that my steering items are correct, but my oil pan is not correct. I believe I need a #893 oil pan. Does anyone have one, or maybe I should be looking for something aftermarket.

The next question is: Can I replace the oil pan with the engine in the car? Or do I need to pull the engine up to get the pan to clear?

Any other easy fix here?

Thanks, Mike
 
The 383/440 A-body #893 pan is big bux when it comes to pans.

Here's a for sale search for: 893 pan

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/search.php?searchid=11574096

This one sold in 12 days was advertised for $600 and didn't look real pretty to me. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=322640&highlight=893+pan

The closest one to not needing work (already reworked) seems to have sold near $850.

I think you current pan is the next best alternative including aftermarket pans.

www.rareparts.com makes a 383 pitman. http://fcrcmachine.com/i-14215376-r...1969-dodge-dart-plymouth-barracuda-20492.html

But not 100% sure that will solve your problem.

Easiest and least expensive would be to ball peen clearance dent your pan. Spot re-spray and drive on. You can replace a pan in a big block without removing motor. Will have to drop the centerlink.
 
When I put the 383 in my 72 I had the same issue. From the looks it's rubbing, somewhere I read about this problem and how to solve it. The fix was heat the corner of the oil pan take a flat body hammer and a second hammer and tap in the corner of the pan DON"T use a torch just the small propane torch. Clean off the corner till you see metal rub it with magic marker each time you tap and turn the wheels when you don't see the magic marker your good. It worked for me you can't even tell, it doesn't take as much as you think. I also ground down a little on the idler arm where it was hitting just to smooth it out
 
Ok guys, thank you for all the help. I'm not ready to spend that much for a 893 pan, so I'm going to try the hammer on my pan and see what I can do.
 
otto37 said:
Ok guys, thank you for all the help. I'm not ready to spend that much for a 893 pan, so I'm going to try the hammer on my pan and see what I can do.
Click to expand...

Look for a BB C body pan. Its the same & cheeper
 
ALL "A" Bodies used the K7042 MOOG Idler Arm ....for 1968 - 1972 -all-
The 1968 - 1969 "A" Body 383 PITMAN ARM is 100% different -- and that was an 18736
TRW -- which -- get this -- was one of the few items MOOG N E V E R made!!!!!!!
For those who Do need the 1968 - 1969 "A" body 383 PITMAN ARM --- I do have it.....

(while I was reading -- figured I'd let you know....):blob::blob:
 
Mobile is correct, the pitman needed is specifi to the Bigblock. Idler arm is the same. There's an old thread on FABO. just type in your search engine "Abody big block pitman arm". There is a distinct differerance between the two pitman arms. Another site refers to a year one part number WY433. Not sure YO still carries that item. If it were me I would take the one Mobil has and call it a day.

You are correct in that the suspension will eventually wear a hole in the pan.


Just checked YO. Yes they show it. $105
 
Call Firm Feel about your pitman arm/idler arm needs. I had a 69 383-S with factory fast ratio steering. This pitman arm is unique to even the big block cars. They knew exactly what I needed. They know Mopars.
 
rklein383 said:
Call Firm Feel about your pitman arm/idler arm needs. I had a 69 383-S with factory fast ratio steering. This pitman arm is unique to even the big block cars. They knew exactly what I needed. They know Mopars.
Click to expand...

Yes, that was going to be my next suggestion. In looking at that pan it doesn't look like the correct C body pan to use. There's a pan on eBay with a longer and deeper indentation
 
What about the pitman www.rareparts.com makes? Is it the same as the small block pitman or is it special for the 383? Rare parts are not dummies. They know there stuff usually.

Btw rare parts will rebuild used worn pitmans and idlers.

The pitman for a fast ratio manual will be the same as regular ratio. The ratio difference comes from the box gearing on manual A Bodies.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top