Ring end gap

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440seven

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I've got a 440 supposed to be .040 over and I started to work on my rings tonight. Took my measurements and figured I should be running a .028 end gap according to KB sheet. Put my top ring in and the end gap is already larger than that (.043). Should I be worried? or just put em on and be done with it?

What am I missing?
 
Are you using KB 237 pistons? If so have you checked your piston to wall clearance? That would be my first worry. Ask me how I know lol....
 
Have you checked more than one ring and bore?
A few comments... a
s Darren mentioned make sure the piston to wall is within KB's specs.
Make sure the part number on the ring set is correct. It sounds like you might have a +.030 over ring set rather than +.040. You're best bet is to get a set that is designed to be file-to-fit.
Use the KB sheet for the recommended top ring gap. For the second ring add .003-.004 to the recommended gap.
 
Yes on the 237's. I don't have a feeler that small but they do seem to "rock" a bit in the hole.
Got the rings from hughes and per their part number they are right, checked all bores with different rings they are all the same.

Okay I found a guage small enough. checked clearance at the skirt and it looks to be within spec .002-.0025, but the pin sides are much looser.
 
What rings are you using, got a part number? That gap is too wide.
 
ordered em from hughes 2160+040

no tool using my piston, gap still shouldn't be almost doubled
 
I highly recommend you have your bores professional measured with the correct tools before dropping those pistons in. They call for tight clearance. I did exactly what you are thinking of doing and had piston slap. I actually had to buy another block (stock bore) and have a machine shop bore the block to accept those pistons. Do it right the first time.
 
Here's a cool story... Hughes sold me .030 over rings!!! found another part number on the box and sure enough they are wrong rings.
 
I ran .045"/.045" in my first 383 build ran greatish for 20 minutes LOL it's a long story.. rings were not the cause of failure though..

I'm planning on having my rings gaped for nitrous just in case I decide to run it.. Not sure what he is going to gap them too.. and also having my motor built this time..

Definitely exchange the rings for .040" set..
 
You, a neophite, cannot check piston to cylinder wall clearances with feeler gauges or calipers to any kind of accuracy.
Edit for Cope; It is nearly impossible to check skirt clearances with feeler gauges or calipers, to any kind of accuracy.Even after doing it hundreds and hundreds of times the correct way, feeler gauge comparisons fail miserably.Some might insist they have a feel for it.Perhaps there is ,or are a tech or two that do. I am not one of them.I have several decades of experience building motorcycle,Atv,Pwc,Marine,and sled engines.If an engine comes back to me with broken skirts or scuffed skirts, I can check the build sheet and say;"look here, this is the spec I set it to; and these are the tools I used.Do you think this has anything to do with your failures?"It will not say feeler gauges.
Feeler gauges act like little springs,throwing the "feel" off. But worse is,they are about 1/2 inch wide, so when you stick them in a curved recess,they measure two points,about 1/2 inch apart, but the middle measurement, the important measurement, they don't measure at all.Small error,one might say.Never-the-less, do you want to risk a come back?I sure don't.End Edit

I had a boss once, when I was learning sleds, who swore he could do it with a dial caliper. Since I came from motorcycles, I had measuring tools. So I let him wiggle and jiggle and fudge his way through his "technique."Then we miked it. Together. With my tools.His dial caliper went into the tool box and I never saw it again.
Next thing you know, there's a dial bore gauge in the tool cabinet, alongside a new mike set.
 
Agreed on not using feeler gages to measure that piston to wall. If you can't do it, pay a shop to. It's that important. Given the ring issue, it should be a no-brainer to have them mic the bores anyway. Something is not right. How did you get the bores to +.040? Did someone machine it for you personally? Did you buy it that way? Did you pull it apart and fine pistons marked ".040"? If al the rings had the same issue in all the bores, either the bores are off, or the rings are off. It's just that simple. I'd cart it to a local shop and have them verify everything for you, or order a .040 over set of file-to-fit rings from somewhere other than Hughes.
 
Bought it this way. Tore it down, sent to machine shop everything was cleaned,inspected, bore size checked. Every cylinder has exactly same ring gap with different rings. Which happens to be .010 too much. I will be taking back to shop to have every cylinder checked again and getting new rings.

Thanks for the awesome story AJ, motorcycles, neophytes, and our blasted feeler gauges.
 
NAH in the machine shop we HAD to stamp our name on every thing. if it came back their was no doubt who worked on it....
your choice of neophyte says that a more experenced machinist could...

Just saying, you could have posted your reasons why (without an edit) and come off better...
 
I digress on several fronts but if I elaborate it will only serve to start an argument.
 
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