LA360 or Magnum?

-

TrailBeast

AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Joined
Mar 11, 2011
Messages
22,315
Reaction score
11,680
Location
Arizona
I have a post looking for another motor to replace a stock 318.
An LA is an easy inexpensive swap, but I found a guy with what he says is about 86,000 mile Magnum engine and trans out of a early 90's 4x4 that he was going to put in his Jeep but decided he didn't have the time and energy to do it.

He said the engine had nothing wrong with it and ran good and he got it from a friend that rolled his truck.

He is asking 250 for the whole mess to someone who can use it. (no use for the 4x4 trans obviously but maybe to sell it)
Do you guys think the LA to magnum swap would be worth doing if you got the motor for that, and he what he says is true?

I already have everything to fit an LA360 besides the oil pan and flywheel.

This is the basic list as I was keeping a 360 in mind the whole time I was putting this car together.

Edelbrock 1406 electric choke
Performer dual plane intake
1 5/8 tube headers
3 inch collectors
dual 2.5 inch with Flowmaster 40's
HEI ignition
Rev limiter
26 inch 2 row radiator w/recovery system
Thermostatic controlled electric cooling

Daily driver.

Oppinions?
 
Magnum all the way.

Because it's a roller, or because the newer metals and machining?
Both, and/or more?

I thought by the time this day came I wouldn't have a doubt in the world what I was going to do, but now that it's here... :D

Say, I'll listen.
 
You will need a different intake with the Magnum bolt pattern or you can re-drill the magnum heads for the LA intake bolt pattern.
 
Because it's a roller, or because the newer metals and machining?
Both, and/or more?

I thought by the time this day came I wouldn't have a doubt in the world what I was going to do, but now that it's here... :D

Say, I'll listen.

Come on, Beavis, you got sense.

It's a roller.

It has a better rocker ratio.

Arguably better heads. Long as they ain't cracked.

Better, more modern casting.

Better availability.

Shorter deck height for better compression possibilities.

I bet you can get one from your local LKQ for 300-500 bucks and that will be with a 6 month warranty as a good runner. That's what I did when I looked for a 302 for the RobKat. Even though I was going to tear it down anyway, the fact that is was sold and guaranteed meant I had a better chance at a good core.

All I had to end up doing was freshening it up. And I didn't HAVE to do that. It still had STRONG cross hatch in the cylinders.
 
Because it's a roller, or because the newer metals and machining?
Both, and/or more?

I thought by the time this day came I wouldn't have a doubt in the world what I was going to do, but now that it's here... :D

Say, I'll listen.

It will also make a lot more power with the same mods as the La.
 
That's a great price on that motor. Even if you don't use it on this - it would be handy to have. if he has the intake and the EFI and the computer - grab that too just in case you decide to go fuel injected at some point.
 
Ok then, Magnum it is it looks like.

Being my only car (we have others, but not my Dart) I am a little nervous about getting into it and finding out I have to wait for something expensive.
Looks like heads might be the one. (cracks) :D

BUT, I don't have to take the engine in the car out until I have all the stuff for the Magnum.
I don't need a different cam, or porting, or high compression, or high RPM mods.
Just a basic drop her in there should do me fine.

I didn't know for sure if I needed a specific balancer or not, to do the timing cover and V belt swap but now I do.
Thanks for the swap link Car Freak.

Won't run a mechanical fuel pump either, so that's done deal.
My fabbed valve covers will work.

I guess I better get back in touch with the $250 complete engine with less than 90,000 miles guy. :D

Thank for the kick in the butt guys.

"Beavis" :D LOL


OH, one thing I didn't mention was that my younger brother wants to pay for it to make up for a time he took one of my trucks when I was on a motorcycle trip and trashed it. (after I accepted a 50% down payment and used it for the trip)
I told him I wrote that off to "Little Brothers suck sometimes" a long time ago, but he said he has to do it or it'll eat at him for the rest of his life.
If I get that motor for $250 there will be a good chunk left for the parts I'm going to need. :D
 
I'd use the serpentine setup, and use a box out of a magnum VAN, it tucks up nice and tight to the engine and doesn't require battery box modifications, you also need either a o-ring to inverted flare conversion fitting from speedway; or another fitting from an older saganaw box. Consider 'mopar magazine: pump it down' as well.

#1 The heads crack, sure, that doesn't guarantee it will ever hit water.
#2 Elongating one bolt hole on the flex plate for the converter.
#3 Getting a center sump oil pan, and dipstick; use the OLD VERSION 360 cork gaskets!!
#4 Slapping an Edelbrock 7577 on; No crossfart business, been there done that... I recommend tapping the smaller water outlets the other side of the intake to 3/8" NPT so it clears the serpentine mount, BEFORE installing it. I got my drill bit and tap of Amazon.com for a song...
#5 for god's sake; use a 195 degree thermostat!
#6 You MAY need to play around with different lower rad hoses because the pump comes in at a little different angle on magnums, I modified a Dakota hose, a little close to the belt, but works great.
#7 Speaking of belts, just use a non-a/c belt and route it accordingly, it will by-pass the idler pulley.


Your in business. No fancy balancer needed unless you want one..
 
I'd use the serpentine setup, and use a box out of a magnum VAN, it tucks up nice and tight to the engine and doesn't require battery box modifications, you also need either a o-ring to inverted flare conversion fitting from speedway; or another fitting from an older saganaw box. Consider 'mopar magazine: pump it down' as well.

#1 The heads crack, sure, that doesn't guarantee it will ever hit water.
#2 Elongating one bolt hole on the flex plate for the converter.
#3 Getting a center sump oil pan, and dipstick; use the OLD VERSION 360 cork gaskets!!
#4 Slapping an Edelbrock 7577 on; No crossfart business, been there done that... I recommend tapping the smaller water outlets the other side of the intake to 3/8" NPT so it clears the serpentine mount, BEFORE installing it. I got my drill bit and tap of Amazon.com for a song...
#5 for god's sake; use a 195 degree thermostat!
#6 You MAY need to play around with different lower rad hoses because the pump comes in at a little different angle on magnums, I modified a Dakota hose, a little close to the belt, but works great.
#7 Speaking of belts, just use a non-a/c belt and route it accordingly, it will by-pass the idler pulley.


Your in business. No fancy balancer needed unless you want one..

Ah, thank you.
I have the drill and tap
I use hot thermostats already (190)
Been there on "Pump it down"
already knew about the heads
knew about the flywheel and balancing (didn't know about the balancer) thanks
or the PS pump.
Forgot about the dipstick.
Can drill and tap the heads myself for the intake (may just get the dual pattern)

Like I said, I can do all this while the car is still drivable and taking my time so I shouldn't have any emergencies as far as getting it done unless the 318 gives up.
It's starting to smoke just a tiny bit at stops, but has 75 cold and 40 lbs at 190 degree 800 RPM idle so I'm expecting it to last awhile.

Thank you for all the information.
 
No problem, as you can see from the pictures, I hacked my serpentine mount quite a bit; but I had the crosswind intake and I HAD to to make the thermostat clear, I am also running a Dakota radiator.
 
any used engine is a gamble.
if the magnum pans out you can dress it like an LA for the day one look or leave it
as a modern looking build.
either engine can be a good choice...
 
any used engine is a gamble.
if the magnum pans out you can dress it like an LA for the day one look or leave it
as a modern looking build.
either engine can be a good choice...

I re contacted the guy with the Magnum so we'll see on that.
The "day one look" is long gone in this car, not so much on the outside but almost everywhere else.
 

Attachments

  • 2aSmall.jpg
    65.9 KB · Views: 256
  • dashsmall.jpg
    33.8 KB · Views: 334
FYI I used the stock magnum dipstick and tube with LA style conversion, no issues.
If you are running headers you will have to grind the truck mounts on the block down to clear.
Magnums come with both style motor mounts, LA and Mag.
 
Woods74,
The power steering pump is the same on a van as a truck or durango, its the bracket thats different between trucks and vans.

Trail Beast,

Dont forget the benefit of factory installed hypereutectic pistons and moly rings. The roller cam is worth the swap alone.

As for your trans, you can easily convert a 4x4 to 2wd by simply swapping the output shaft and OD housing to 2 wd. If you dont want to mess with installing od trans, sell it for $500-$600 to help fund your build or buy a set of bare EQ heads with the $600. I would also at least swap in a better cam as the 5.9 has a pretty weak one factory. You can install a .450" regrind for $175 plus some pushrods.

I would also give serious consideration to using the factory multi port since you want to keep it close to stock and it seems to be a daily driver. You wont be sorry you did.
 
Woods74,
The power steering pump is the same on a van as a truck or durango, its the bracket thats different between trucks and vans.

Your right, I just didn't feel like breaking out the damn puller when I could grab the whole thing from a pick-n-pull and call it a day. In the end, probably less beat on than a truck version anyway.
 
It will also make a lot more power with the same mods as the La.

I'd like to see LA vs Magnum shoot out. But ya stock long block Magnum seems to have the advantage, LA seem to port better though.

Magnum is the best bang for the buck
 
Woods74,
The power steering pump is the same on a van as a truck or durango, its the bracket thats different between trucks and vans.

Trail Beast,

Dont forget the benefit of factory installed hypereutectic pistons and moly rings. The roller cam is worth the swap alone.

As for your trans, you can easily convert a 4x4 to 2wd by simply swapping the output shaft and OD housing to 2 wd. If you dont want to mess with installing od trans, sell it for $500-$600 to help fund your build or buy a set of bare EQ heads with the $600. I would also at least swap in a better cam as the 5.9 has a pretty weak one factory. You can install a .450" regrind for $175 plus some pushrods.

I would also give serious consideration to using the factory multi port since you want to keep it close to stock and it seems to be a daily driver. You wont be sorry you did.

I considered the trans also, but don't really need it and the FI is just more BS that I'm not ready to deal with on a car I need almost every day.
If I could find a long block LA engine for a good price it would so be in there. :D

Other than that I'll go ahead with a carbed magnum since that can all be dealt with over time on a stand and dropped in on a weekend day.
I think about the biggest change I can deal with at the time is the Mag engine and serpentine system.
I would definitely keep the FI system and computer if it comes with it though, as I might decide to do it at a later time.
 
The one thing that would put the nail in the LA engine's coffin is if Chrysler had changed the Magnum over to a one piece rear main seal design. Both Ford and Chevy did. Chrysler did not. Idiots.They did everything else though. Wider valve cover rails and more valve cover bolts. One piece oil pan gasket. There had to be some engineer somewhere that was shaking his head that they didn't go to a one piece seal. That would have been a very nice package. Still though, they ain't too bad like they are.
 
-
Back
Top