tooslow
Well-Known Member
A road racer and considering am 833 coupled to my built high revving 383, thoughts appreciated !
833 hold up to 500hp RB
- Thread starter tooslow
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I don't see a problem.
Hard launches and mad house torque breaks parts.
Hard launches and mad house torque breaks parts.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Junk clutches breaks transmissions and drivetrain. Doesn't matter whose parts you have.
mopar head
Well-Known Member
18 spline..
als499
Well-Known Member
I had a 69 Road Runner with a 23-spline and center force clutch, dynoed at 660hp . Never had a problem with the transmission, but broke the rear end yoke in half.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Dartnut
Don't hate me because i'm beautiful
Would you please list the junk clutches that destroy drive train parts so we can avoid them?
I have run McCloud and Centerforce street and strip set ups in my cars and have had no problems with 18 spline and 23 spline transmissions (stock).
I did however, wreck a pinion bearing in my 440 23 spline 4 speed '69 Super Bee with some hard launches and sticky tires. A Dana 60 resolved that, like it should have.
I have had some bad luck with stock clutches slipping, but no drive train failures.
Thanks,
Tom.
mopar head
Well-Known Member
Good to hear, same setup I`ll be running behind my 440 with much less HP.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Since you seem to have a hard on for anything I post, I consider ANY diaphragm pressure plate garbage, especially if it has the Centerforce weights on it. Ever try and balance one of those? You can't. You have to take it off, balance everything and then put it back on, so the balance job is off. JUNK.
Also, any system (and that's what you clutch is, a system) that uses over 2200 pounds of static pressure are parts breakers. Any paddle clutch that Ram or anyone else sells is JUNK. Any dual friction disc is a joke.
So put bite to them and you WILL run over parts. If you are a street tire guy then it's a bit different.
For me, junk is junk at any price.
So why don't you make it easy on us and tell us what clutches everyone should be running? Since that will be a much shorter list...
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
You wouldn't like what I run because it's a "race" piece and we all know you can't run race parts on the street.
That being said, any Long style cover, or a B&B Long finger cover ands a rag disc without a marcel and 2200 pounds of static to start. That would be my lowest of the low grade street clutches. Like I said, I run a "race" clutch in my daily driver.
But that would also require learning to tune clutches.
dano
Evil Handy Man
Traction brakes parts. Ask anyone with power and AWD that though burn outs were cool until their transfer case and transmission broke.
Humor me.
I don't care if I "like" it, I want to know what you run and why.
I run a lot of parts on my cars that most people don't like, but they're there for a purpose. So why do you run a race clutch in your daily?
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Because IMHO, everything else is a complete waste of time, unless you have no inclination to learn about clutches. If you don't want to learn then get a center force. If you want to learn that you would fast find out why I say those other clutches are junk.
What do you run, and why?
Simple question. We've already heard your opinion on the vast majority of clutches out there, and since they're all junk or a waste of time let's hear about yours.
Clutches are not that complicated. If I can learn enough physics to finish an aerospace engineering degree, you're not going to lose me explaining your clutch set up.
DieWilde13
Well-Known Member
Man, you are talking in Riddles....
Don´t give anybody the feeling that all the available clutches are Junk only because you think you found the philosophers stone.
You don´t bring any fundamental Explanation for your Statements.
I drove centerforce dualfriction, stock and McCloud. No Problems at all.
Don´t give anybody the feeling that all the available clutches are Junk only because you think you found the philosophers stone.
You don´t bring any fundamental Explanation for your Statements.
I drove centerforce dualfriction, stock and McCloud. No Problems at all.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
No riddles. If you like what I consider crap that's on you.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I never said clutches were complex. I said there is a learning curve.
So what do you want, part numbers? I can tell you I run a 10.5 inch sintered iron disc, with a 10.95 B&B Long cover. Nothing exotic by any means but some guys think it's race only. As for set up, come on. You can't expect me to tell you static pressure and counter weight. It is application specific. I can say I have run with and without counterweight and I prefer counterweight. I will say I have run static as low as 330 pounds and 900 pounds of counter. I have run 660 pounds of static with no counter. You have to test. That said, if you want to run a rag disc, then you can be at 2200 pounds of base, maybe less. The rag discs take more pressure than a SI disc.
As I said, nothing exotic, but most guys would say it's not a street clutch. I feel sorry for them because my wife drives my car.
YR, who makes the said clutch system you have in use?
SLOPAR72
Well-Known Member
Sure it will last...... The whole trick is to get that baby the first 100ft. or so and not scatter parts.... If you are looking for some 1.7 60ft. times you can probably get away with a box clutch and not beat on it at every stoplight. Past that, plan on spending some money and time to make it all work.....
Tim Hyatt (rip) is a good resource. He has now passed but hopefully the company will carry on. I know his stuff works because I had a 540 5speed street car and it was how I got the car to leave and not work on it every weekend lol....
Good luck,
JW
Tim Hyatt (rip) is a good resource. He has now passed but hopefully the company will carry on. I know his stuff works because I had a 540 5speed street car and it was how I got the car to leave and not work on it every weekend lol....
Good luck,
JW
ssba
Well-Known Member
I don't consider a Borg & Beck Long pressure plate a race clutch in today's
world. Although they did start out that way decades ago.
It has always been my favorite clutch for a street or a vintage style race car.
I myself will need nothing better for my cars until I can no longer press the pedal.
I agree with yellow rose and it is a great clutch choice even if it was a bit difficult for you guys
to get it out of him. No offence meant to anyone.
Its a little stiff in the leg for a lot of guys in traffic but for myself worth the trade off.
I have to admit he had me going thinking he was holding back on some custom
billet multi disc 1000 HP $etup $$$$$.
It a great and affordable clutch.
world. Although they did start out that way decades ago.
It has always been my favorite clutch for a street or a vintage style race car.
I myself will need nothing better for my cars until I can no longer press the pedal.
I agree with yellow rose and it is a great clutch choice even if it was a bit difficult for you guys
to get it out of him. No offence meant to anyone.
Its a little stiff in the leg for a lot of guys in traffic but for myself worth the trade off.
I have to admit he had me going thinking he was holding back on some custom
billet multi disc 1000 HP $etup $$$$$.
It a great and affordable clutch.
jbc426
Well-Known Member
I've heard that of the two styles of synchro's, one of them is superior. Fresh synchros are always a good idea on a race build, Also, the steel shifter forks are much less likely to deflect and bend during hard use. Matching the transmisssion and crank centerlines and ensuring the bellhousing keeps them in near perfect linear alignment is, as opposed to at very slight angles to each other is crucial.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Yup. If I was starting with nothing, I would use a 10.5 Long pressure plate and the SI disc. But I already had the BB/Long cover and flywheel.
Unless you are running something running in the low 8's I can't see the need for a multi disc clutch. I absolutely have no use for the dual disc 10 inch or larger clutches. The combined rotating weight makes it almost impossible to shift above 6500 RPM.
And if you already have a flywheel the BB/Long cover is a good deal. The issue is getting someone willing to make the cover adjustable. Although I ran mine unadjustable into the low 9's.
But just so that we're all clear here, you're talking about a drag car that's running 9's. Most of the cars on this site have probably never even seen 6,500 rpm, let alone shift there (or above).
Meaning, the vast majority of people here have absolutely no need for that kind of clutch. I'm not saying you can't run that clutch on the street, you obviously can. And if you dial down the base and use a good amount of counter it probably isn't even a PITA on the street, because on the street you'll be shifting at much lower RPM's and won't have to fight as much of the counter.
It's always about application, and yours is pretty specialized. Not that it's a bad thing to be that specialized or that fast, but most aren't, and that changes the perspective.
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