Valley pan sealant or no sealant

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440magcars

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I've always sealed up the valley pans on the engines I've built but never built a high horsepower forced induction engine. So I had a engine builder build one for me. It's a 507 with a F2 Procharger. Had problems with it and it went lean. Was still going through the break in period so I wasn't on it had at all. Half throttle at the most. Got it home pulled plugs and popped the top of the ring landing off #1 #5 #8 and the valley pan was bulged up. Took the intake off and that's when I noticed there wasn't any sealant. What your opinion. He said it doesn't need it. I'm finding that hard to believe being forced Induction. Not saying that it was the cause of it blowing up but still trying to pin point the cause! Found the builders build sheet on ring gap. Top ring is .024 and 2nd ring is .015. Seems a little tight.
 
what were your rings gapped at. i am also rebuilding after detonation and ring butt. did your piston look like this. look at the end of the rings and you might see a dull area where they have pushed together. mine leaned out on the dyno when the water meth failed on a power pull.
and yes i always use a good sealant
 

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I was told to use sealant when your working with aluminum. If you had an iron intake and iron heads you don't need sealant.
 
bOb shingler said:
I highly recommend tossing the sheet metal valley pan and getting a cast aluminum or steel heavy duty one.

also the ring gap should be around .035".
Click to expand...

Never heard of a cast aluminum or heavy steel valley pan before. Also, shouldn't ring gap be what the ring manufacture recommends which is usually a direct relation to bore size?
 
mine is a 410 sb with S475 turbo and top ring is 027" and second ring 029". my block is 2/3 filled so a little extra was added. followed manufacturers recommendations .
 
The first time my 496 was built #8 piston did the same thing checked ring gap was 14 thousands. That's why I'm looking for s new engine builder that's knows mopars
 
I forgot to mention that there wasn't any gaskets just the valley tray with no sealant on aluminum heads and intake.
 
I definitely recommend sealant. It is probably of no concern to your application but if the car involved spends any time outside in a winter environment snow can and will get up under the hood on the engine and can melt and leak into the crankcase between the intake and head. Then you are wondering if maybe a head gasket is bad etc....
 
I use anaerobic sealant around all the ports and it work great. I don't know how it wound work on pressurized motors.
 
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