Engine Died on 1st Ride Won't start
This can be a number of things, and there are some checks you can make. You may have "done something" related to the choke.
"What you need." (in general)
Get yourself a spark tester so you can look for spark without help. I use a Lisle, like this
You already have a multimeter, and you need a 12V test light
Get a few alligator clip leads. Radio shack used to have. You can buy them through online electronics suppliers, Digikey, Mouser, some others, and on ebay
=========================================
First thing to do is determine if the system is getting power in BOTH start and run. These are two different circuits. "Clip" your meter to the coil + and to ground. Turn the key to run, note the reading, and then twist to start and note the reading while in start
You should have 5-8V or so "in run" and you should have "same as battery" in start. That is, if the battery sags to 11V while cranking, then you should have close to 11V at the coil + when cranking.
If not a quick check..........take an alligator lead and run power direct from the battery (starter relay) to the coil +. Do not leave this hooked up longer than necessary to test.
Make sure the ECU is GROUNDED. Dismount the box, clean the firewall and back of the box flanges, and remount tight, with star lock washers.
Work all connectors, the ECU, the ballast, and the distributor ESPECIALLY in and out to scrub them clean and to feel for tightness
Remove the distributor connector. Turn the key to "run." Repeatedly touch / untouch the bare side of the connector on the "engine side" of the distributor connector to ground. Each time should produce one spark snap.
DO NOT check spark (to start with) through the wires, as resistance wires can lead you astray. "Rig" your spark checker right at the top of the coil tower, to ground. You should get a nice fat spark, perhaps 3/8" long or more.
Rig your multimeter to the distributor connector. Set the meter to LOW AC volts and crank the engine. The distributor should generate about 1V AC.
Inspect the interior of the cap, rotor, distributor. Look for dirt, moisture, damage. Look for strike damage between the reluctor / pickup coil, and check the distributor for shaft wear. Buy a .008" (inches not metric) brass feeler gauge and check / adjust the reluctor to pickup gap.
================================
With the system connected "normal"
and assuming you have cranking voltage to the coil+
and assuming the test shorting the distributor connector to ground showed OK
Most likely is a distributor pickup bad
=================================
If the distributor connector "short" test did not produce spark
and jumpering 12V to the coil did not work
then it's a tossup between ECU and coil, whatever you can round up "cheaper."
This can be a number of things, and there are some checks you can make. You may have "done something" related to the choke.
"What you need." (in general)
Get yourself a spark tester so you can look for spark without help. I use a Lisle, like this
You already have a multimeter, and you need a 12V test light
Get a few alligator clip leads. Radio shack used to have. You can buy them through online electronics suppliers, Digikey, Mouser, some others, and on ebay
=========================================
First thing to do is determine if the system is getting power in BOTH start and run. These are two different circuits. "Clip" your meter to the coil + and to ground. Turn the key to run, note the reading, and then twist to start and note the reading while in start
You should have 5-8V or so "in run" and you should have "same as battery" in start. That is, if the battery sags to 11V while cranking, then you should have close to 11V at the coil + when cranking.
If not a quick check..........take an alligator lead and run power direct from the battery (starter relay) to the coil +. Do not leave this hooked up longer than necessary to test.
Make sure the ECU is GROUNDED. Dismount the box, clean the firewall and back of the box flanges, and remount tight, with star lock washers.
Work all connectors, the ECU, the ballast, and the distributor ESPECIALLY in and out to scrub them clean and to feel for tightness
Remove the distributor connector. Turn the key to "run." Repeatedly touch / untouch the bare side of the connector on the "engine side" of the distributor connector to ground. Each time should produce one spark snap.
DO NOT check spark (to start with) through the wires, as resistance wires can lead you astray. "Rig" your spark checker right at the top of the coil tower, to ground. You should get a nice fat spark, perhaps 3/8" long or more.
Rig your multimeter to the distributor connector. Set the meter to LOW AC volts and crank the engine. The distributor should generate about 1V AC.
Inspect the interior of the cap, rotor, distributor. Look for dirt, moisture, damage. Look for strike damage between the reluctor / pickup coil, and check the distributor for shaft wear. Buy a .008" (inches not metric) brass feeler gauge and check / adjust the reluctor to pickup gap.
================================
With the system connected "normal"
and assuming you have cranking voltage to the coil+
and assuming the test shorting the distributor connector to ground showed OK
Most likely is a distributor pickup bad
=================================
If the distributor connector "short" test did not produce spark
and jumpering 12V to the coil did not work
then it's a tossup between ECU and coil, whatever you can round up "cheaper."
