67 pitman arm question

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GTSDustin

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I noticed that the brand new pitman arm I put on my wife's 67 cuda has "up and down" play. I purchased another brand new one (next to impossible) and it is sloppy as well. Is this a common problem on 67s? Maybe why that's why mopar changed the pitman arms in 68 huh. Thanks
 
Where is the play? On the steering box shaft? The other end where it bolts to the drag link? Or the shaft coming out of the steering box?
 
You're probably missing the thick washer on top (under the nut). Back in 1996 I bought a '67 fastback and knew that the idler was loose, so I figured that would be the first thing I replaced. All it was missing was the washer. The shaft is tapered and will not tighten up with just the nut....
 
That is a different story. The 67 idler arm mounting arrangement wasn't the best to say the least. Instead of having a tab above and below like 68 up A-bodies, It used a single tab on the bottom. Your way better off to change the design to the later style.
 
Yes, if you can do a bit of fabrication, you can update it to use a 68/ later pitman.

Might also be that the mounting ear is wallowed out.
 
I am assuming it has the original K-member? Can you post a picture of where it mounts to the K-member.
 
Yes, you need the washer--Moog instructions....
 

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It is original 67 k member. I knew the 68s were totally redesigned for the better since I have 2 68s myself. But as Jim lusk noted, I don't have the thick washer on top under the castle nut. I'll do that tomorrow
 
Generic pic, but you still need the washer....
 
It is original 67 k member. I knew the 68s were totally redesigned for the better since I have 2 68s myself. But as Jim lusk noted, I don't have the thick washer on top under the castle nut. I'll do that tomorrow

WHOA WHOA WHOOOOOOAAAAAHHHH!!! Back up there big fella!!!

dbea9f9df34bb3dc11b8d20062d3a7ed.jpg


This is starting to sound like you are trying to use a 68 idler on a 67 K. The 67 idler should have a STUD mount and nut, and the 68 / later has a through bolt and nut

Somebody doing a conversion

https://dartslantsix.wordpress.com/2012/10/07/idler-arm-conversion-67-to-73/

Below is a photo of a 67 I stole off the www. Notice this is NOT a bolt through there, but a stud. It must be a tight fit in the bracket or it will "move"
 

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WHOA WHOA WHOOOOOOAAAAAHHHH!!! Back up there big fella!!!

dbea9f9df34bb3dc11b8d20062d3a7ed.jpg


This is starting to sound like you are trying to use a 68 idler on a 67 K. The 67 idler should have a STUD mount and nut, and the 68 / later has a through bolt and nut

Somebody doing a conversion

https://dartslantsix.wordpress.com/2012/10/07/idler-arm-conversion-67-to-73/
Lol no sir, I have the correct 67 $150 idler arm with studs on both ends. I was just questioning the slight "rock" or up and down play when I shake the wheels.
 
Which area is moving....Center link end or at the frame ?
 
Which area is moving....Center link end or at the frame ?

THIS. As I mentioned earlier, the mounting might be 'wallowed out'

I spose in the end it might be "crappy modern chineseo parts"

Some guy (on here) had a 440 A body, kept melting THE PLASTIC BUSHING inside the idler arms. I don't know what he finally did
 
I always have the 1962 - 1966 & 1967 1 year only Idler Arms
and the 1962 - 1967 Pitman Arm --- in stock -- in either N.O.S. TRW or MOOG -- or
the U.S.A. made reproduction....
The overseas made parts ARE a problem.....:cheers:
 
I always have the 1962 - 1966 & 1967 1 year only Idler Arms
and the 1962 - 1967 Pitman Arm --- in stock -- in either N.O.S. TRW or MOOG -- or
the U.S.A. made reproduction....
The overseas made parts ARE a problem.....:cheers:


Well if you really need another 67 A body idler I have an NOS I'd be willing to part with.
 
THIS. As I mentioned earlier, the mounting might be 'wallowed out'

I spose in the end it might be "crappy modern chineseo parts"

Some guy (on here) had a 440 A body, kept melting THE PLASTIC BUSHING inside the idler arms. I don't know what he finally did

If it's been on there for a while rocking, it will egg out the tapered socket. Then you're pretty much hosed. I once had a high-mile 67 Dart with this problem.
 
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