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MoparOrNokar

HammerTime
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Installing my new 360 engine and i want to remove the heater hoses. Can i just link the intake fitting to the water pump fitting or will it not flow?
 
If you mean loop the hose from one fitting right back to the other one to bypass a heater, then people do it all the time.
They are different size fittings, so some use the larger hose and put it on the smaller nipple and some stretch the small hose over the larger nipple.
You'll have to decide how you want to do that part, but there is zero problems in doing it as far as the motor or cooling system is concerned.

Some thread and plug the nipples of the pump, and some buy rubber caps for them.
 
It hasn't happened to me Yet....keyword yet. My buddy put 40,000 miles on his with no issue. I will keep an eye on that though.
 
Just run a pipe thread tap the inside of the water pump nipple and screw in a plug, works great and plus the intake
 
Same parts on 2 engines over 15 years of pretty hard use, no problems ever.
Not sure how to make the image bigger but I'll try to fiddle around with it.
 

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Normally, the heater core is used to extract heat out of the water. If you loop the circuit back to the pump, you will be sending hot water back into the pump. A better solution is to plug both ends, or to install a shut-off valve into the hose.
Or maybe Michigan summers are just not that hot, for this to be an issue.
 
Normally, the heater core is used to extract heat out of the water. If you loop the circuit back to the pump, you will be sending hot water back into the pump. A better solution is to plug both ends, or to install a shut-off valve into the hose.
Or maybe Michigan summers are just not that hot, for this to be an issue.

Oh come on man. :D
I think you are reaching a bit there AJ, as stopping the flow isn't going to make any more difference than not having the core hooked up at all. (or looping it back into the pump)

A degree or two at best.
I have run my own car here in AZ in the summer with all that disconnected and even looped back and it made zero difference in anything (except it was cooler inside the car from not having a core full of hot coolant right at my feet) :D

You know I have to give you grief once in awhile, right? LOL
 
OK, let me rephrase that; by looping, you will be sending hot water that has already been through the block and head one time, back into the pump, instead of to the rad, effectively making it a hot water bypass; a second hot water bypass.It will be at about stat temperature. The water coming up from the bottom of the rad will be a good 40* cooler. The hot water from the loop will be entering the pump on the cold side, preheating the cold water which is on it's way to cooling the block. The loop water is also going to be at a slightly higher pressure, rising with rpm, than the cold supply.Yes,I realize it's a small hose.
How it will play out I cannot say.
What I can say is this;
I didn't want to find out, so I plugged mine. I also restricted the regular bypass some. And as I have said before, I run my water at 205*F minimum. As long as the rad sees air,the engine has never overheated.But then, how would I know, since I've been running the factory slow-poke guages since 1999, and I almost never look at them.I'd like to believe that after 100,000 miles and more than 10 years,I know my engine, and if it starts to overheat, Ima hoping I'll notice.heehee.
But then maybe, just maybe, that 7# cap blowing off early, might just clue me in.

Feel free to challenge me on anything.It's the internet, you can't hurt me.heehee.I'm here to share, and to help, and also to learn.I don't let my ego get the best of me anymore.
 
Although i think you reached a little far with that one AJ lol :hello2:
id have to agree with you, it certainly is possible, it makes sense, plus by plugging them off its one less hose you gotta worry about.
 
It's like hamburgers and fries.Nothing wrong with having a burger and fries.Right?
Unless you have more than just one hamburger and fries;
per sitting;
say every day for a year.
That's not gonna be good for you.
The devil is in the details. Add a little heat here,or there, and pretty soon you can't figure out why she's always puking coolant.A slipping belt, a missing cowl seal, missing or bent or plugged radfins, a failing viscous coupling, a flex-fan,a collapsing lower hose.......or recirculating hot coolant.
A little here, a little there, soon a new engine.
A burger here a burger there and pretty soon,the wife finds you dead in the hallway, from a heart attack.
Burgers and fries.
Details.
 
OK, let me rephrase that; by looping, you will be sending hot water that has already been through the block and head one time, back into the pump, instead of to the rad, effectively making it a hot water bypass; a second hot water bypass.It will be at about stat temperature. The water coming up from the bottom of the rad will be a good 40* cooler. The hot water from the loop will be entering the pump on the cold side, preheating the cold water which is on it's way to cooling the block. The loop water is also going to be at a slightly higher pressure, rising with rpm, than the cold supply.Yes,I realize it's a small hose.
How it will play out I cannot say.
What I can say is this;
I didn't want to find out, so I plugged mine. I also restricted the regular bypass some. And as I have said before, I run my water at 205*F minimum. As long as the rad sees air,the engine has never overheated.But then, how would I know, since I've been running the factory slow-poke guages since 1999, and I almost never look at them.I'd like to believe that after 100,000 miles and more than 10 years,I know my engine, and if it starts to overheat, Ima hoping I'll notice.heehee.
But then maybe, just maybe, that 7# cap blowing off early, might just clue me in.

Feel free to challenge me on anything.It's the internet, you can't hurt me.heehee.I'm here to share, and to help, and also to learn.I don't let my ego get the best of me anymore.

That's a more complete explanation. :D
Still doesn't make any notable difference though as sound as the theory is.
That was what my point was, and not to bash or anything even though I guess it did sound a little antagonistic.

Will you forgive me?
 
TB, nothing to forgive man, we're just exchanging ideas and information. I know you better by now.
You have good results with an operating loop. I have good results with a plugged loop. I believe I'm right. You are for sure real-world right.And like Poster 13 says, by eliminating the hose, it's one less thing to worry about.

I should probably capitulate by letting it slip that on some of my other low-perf cars, in the past, I have just clamped that hose off.heehee....They make clamps just for that very purpose.
 
So unrelated i guess im just poster 13 around here lmao :happy6:
If you had a name somewhere in your post I woulda used it,( I checked for it) but I admit, I was just too lazy to one-finger type 13 characters. That's why mine says AJ. Just two characters.
But hey, give me credit for giving you credit, right?
Glad you got some giggles, tho.
 
Lol all good im just aggrivating ya, to the op id do whatever you feel comfortable with. If you prefer just pluging them off then theres a couple benefits, 1. Is one less hose to worry about. 2. It looks a little cleaner especially if your showing the car. If you prefer just looping the hose there is no harm in that way either
 
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