heat delete

OK, let me rephrase that; by looping, you will be sending hot water that has already been through the block and head one time, back into the pump, instead of to the rad, effectively making it a hot water bypass; a second hot water bypass.It will be at about stat temperature. The water coming up from the bottom of the rad will be a good 40* cooler. The hot water from the loop will be entering the pump on the cold side, preheating the cold water which is on it's way to cooling the block. The loop water is also going to be at a slightly higher pressure, rising with rpm, than the cold supply.Yes,I realize it's a small hose.
How it will play out I cannot say.
What I can say is this;
I didn't want to find out, so I plugged mine. I also restricted the regular bypass some. And as I have said before, I run my water at 205*F minimum. As long as the rad sees air,the engine has never overheated.But then, how would I know, since I've been running the factory slow-poke guages since 1999, and I almost never look at them.I'd like to believe that after 100,000 miles and more than 10 years,I know my engine, and if it starts to overheat, Ima hoping I'll notice.heehee.
But then maybe, just maybe, that 7# cap blowing off early, might just clue me in.

Feel free to challenge me on anything.It's the internet, you can't hurt me.heehee.I'm here to share, and to help, and also to learn.I don't let my ego get the best of me anymore.

That's a more complete explanation. :D
Still doesn't make any notable difference though as sound as the theory is.
That was what my point was, and not to bash or anything even though I guess it did sound a little antagonistic.

Will you forgive me?