Alternator mounting

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That doesn't look right, the bracket goes in front, then the ear, then the spacer, the back ear, short spacer - and into the head...
 
They look the same to me. I think someone added that washer to the OP's large spacer because it wasn't long enough.
 
Run it however it takes to get it lined up.
I dont think you can get more original than this pic from E-Booger
69-alt-brkt05a.jpg
 
You guys are all out of control. The OP didn't bother to state the year or engine of his car. Both matter. I think the parts varied at least 3 times. Early alt brackets were totally different, then the flat brackets, then the aluminum water pump shifted everything forward 1".

Post #6 finally shows the question concerns the later. Post #12 is for an earlier cast-iron water pump. I think the pulleys setups also varied between different power steering pumps and AC, which may have affected the alternator. Oh yeah, and we are also talking about small block engines.

Regardless, if you can get V-belt pulleys aligned within 1/8" axially, it usually works. New serpentine belt are much less forgiving. Just yesterday I was trying to help a guy stranded near my house w/ a ~2000 Huyandai that threw a serp belt. We loosened the alternator, but the old belt was too short to slip on (wrong part or bad design?). By then the engine had cooled enough that I told him to just drive home 4 miles w/o the water pump turning.
 
You guys are all out of control. The OP didn't bother to state the year or engine of his car. Both matter. I think the parts varied at least 3 times. Early alt brackets were totally different, then the flat brackets, then the aluminum water pump shifted everything forward 1".

Post #6 finally shows the question concerns the later. Post #12 is for an earlier cast-iron water pump. I think the pulleys setups also varied between different power steering pumps and AC, which may have affected the alternator. Oh yeah, and we are also talking about small block engines.

Regardless, if you can get V-belt pulleys aligned within 1/8" axially, it usually works. New serpentine belt are much less forgiving. Just yesterday I was trying to help a guy stranded near my house w/ a ~2000 Huyandai that threw a serp belt. We loosened the alternator, but the old belt was too short to slip on (wrong part or bad design?). By then the engine had cooled enough that I told him to just drive home 4 miles w/o the water pump turning.

Bill, thanks for the input, the car is a 71, the engine is a 74 360, with aluminum water pump.

..............Don't use that cogged belt there garbage...........get a Top Cog belt....Kim...

Do you happen to have a vendor or part number for a belt, I wanted to pick up another for a spare, I could swap them out.
 
I like Gates or Goodyear for belts and hoses...

The belt on there is a Gates. I agree with your choice of belts and hoses Karl. Both are good quality.

I don't know if I can shed any light that hasn't already been done. But if you look at the way I mounted mine it looks pretty much the same and the belts line up perfect. check post 27 and 43.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=336405&page=2

Thanks Roy, I appear to have the same brackets as you and Karl. My belt looks kinked in one of my pics, Im going to have to take a closer look at that. I also need to lay a straight edge across the pulleys to double check.
 
Run it however it takes to get it lined up.
I dont think you can get more original than this pic from E-Booger
69-alt-brkt05a.jpg

You could start by painting the engine bay body color :banghead:
 
You could start by painting the engine bay body color :banghead:

This is the only one pictured that is correct with the split Bushing that slides in the rear boss on the alternator tightly. Prior pics are missing this bushing. The reason there was a need for the washer. Just a FYI
 

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Without Power Steering they can be mounted on the drivers side which eliminates wires on the motor using the power steering brackets. One wire gm alternator with built in regulator 100 amps one six inch wire for hook up. I use a positive battery post mounted to the frame . If you look the factory harness is still in place. Battery in trunk.
 

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This is the only one pictured that is correct with the split Bushing that slides in the rear boss on the alternator tightly. Prior pics are missing this bushing. The reason there was a need for the washer. Just a FYI

I see what you mean now
I seem to remember removing that bushing from an old alternator and "pressing" it into a new one once
 
..............Don't use that cogged belt there garbage...........get a Top Cog belt....Kim...
I strongly recommend AGAINST any Top Cog belt. I had 2 that would start to slip and not make ANY noise. Once they slipped a while and got warm, then would not hold even with gorilla level tension. Don't ask me why, but it drove me nuts for a few days trying to figure out what was going on. And that was just on a low RPM diesel pickup.

I've raced single V belts running 600+ watts of or rally lights in night rallies, with nary a problem in 5000 racing miles, turning up to 8000 RPM with stock pullies and good standard Gates or Gooyear or NAPA Premium belts, but the 2 Top Cogs let me down badly. Bad ju ju....
 
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