If only RemFlex was SlimFlex

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FrobiOne

FrobiOne

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Remflex Gaskets so thick that im not catching many threads. I can barely get top center nut on with the conical round washer. longer studs? anyone have a source?

with a thicker gasket will increasing torque multiply?
 
No help here huh? Everyone recommends these gaskets buy never had this problem?
 
What gasket are you talking about? Intake? Head? Exhaust? Valve cover? Something else?

What car? What engine? Obviously some kind of /6, but there was a really long production run and not all years are identical.

Easier to help if we know what you're talking about.
 
by the description, I'm guessing they are referring to the intake/exhaust manifolds.

72blu is right, we need a little more information to help.

stock manifolds? header? aftermarket intake?
 
I don't have experience with Remflex on a slant (if that's what you're working on) but they will crush quite a bit. They're soft so it shouldn't take much if you can get fasteners started everywhere.
 
72bluNblu said:
What gasket are you talking about? Intake? Head? Exhaust? Valve cover? Something else?

What car? What engine? Obviously some kind of /6, but there was a really long production run and not all years are identical.

Easier to help if we know what you're talking about.
Click to expand...

vitamindart said:
by the description, I'm guessing they are referring to the intake/exhaust manifolds.

72blu is right, we need a little more information to help.

stock manifolds? header? aftermarket intake?
Click to expand...

Obviously a slant six and remflex only makes one gasket for it. Using stock intake and exhaust. Thinking I just need to over torque the nuts to squish the gasket and then re-torque to spec or buy longer studs. Anyone have pros or cons on either?
 
I ran a Remflex on my Slanty. They are the only exhaust gaskets I use anymore. Have you tried starting the nuts without the conical washers to beging the crushing of the gasket to allow room for the rest of the hardware to be installed? Once you install the proper hardware, be careful to not over torque the manifolds.

Slant's intake and exhaust manifolds expand and contract on the head slightly. It is important to use all the correct hardware and properly torque them, so they can move freely when heated and cooled. The graphite construction of the Remflex is ideal for allowing this expansion and contraction to take place. I also use a dab of synthetic disc brake grease on the washers to keep them from binding during the heating and cooling cycles.
 
hey frobione, Just find yourself a fastenal store or something equalvent down there in portland, (i'm up in seattle). take one of the studs in and ask for some that are a 1/2 inch longer, screw them in and take all the worries away. that's where I get my fasteners from including carb studs, exhaust studs or whatever. I've got a slant six also.
 
We must apologize for not going to Remflex website and researching what parts they sell so we understand your question (easier for you than just telling us).

Yes, you could get longer studs. They are pretty standard. Ace Hardware carries some in the pull-out drawers. But, I wouldn't since likely to break one off trying to remove from the head, and that would cause bigger issues. Better to just get it started without washers, as recommended.

Also, keep the 3 vertical bolts that clamp the intake and exhaust snug but loose while you snug up the nuts to the head, keep repeating back and forth so everything settles in correctly. I coat those 3 bolts w/ high-temp anti-seize to avoid the common "snapped middle bolt" on the next removal.

Before doing anything, read the excellent article on slantsix.org. The cone and triangle washers are supposed to face opposite what "common sense" suggests. If you don't, the exhaust manifold can later crack.
 
racyroy1 said:
hey frobione, Just find yourself a fastenal store or something equalvent down there in portland, (i'm up in seattle). take one of the studs in and ask for some that are a 1/2 inch longer, screw them in and take all the worries away. that's where I get my fasteners from including carb studs, exhaust studs or whatever. I've got a slant six also.
Click to expand...


If by chance you replace the studs, don't forget to add sealant to the studs since they go into the water jacket.

EDIT: I've got a NOS Clifford gasket still in the wrapper that I'm going to use on my slant with headers and aluminum intake. I'm sure the Remflex is probably better, but the Clifford gasket had no problems sealing my intake/headers way back when.
 
65 Dartman said:
If by chance you replace the studs, don't forget to add sealant to the studs since they go into the water jacket.
Click to expand...


yep, fergot that, thanks.....

and for what it's worth,,,,, removing studs is not hard, and chance of breaking one is minimal, less chance than screwing a nut onto a stud half way and then stripping it. Then you will be changing out studs.... Just saying
 
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