New carb issues

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38 Dodge

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Ok so I put a new quick fuel carb on my 67 cuda with a 318 had to work the gas pedal to get it to full throttle. Get it working good so desire to take it for a small drive, that's when all Heck happens the car goes full throttle and locks hard brake tiring to control car get off road shift to N shut down engine then antifreeze starts spraying out from u red the hood. I open the hood and find one of the fan blades bent up into my brand new aluminum radiator.
Long story short get the car home find slop in the water pump housing and the power steering pump. So I get the radiator out water pump off and power steering pump off noticed the master cyclinder is leaking brake fluid out the fire wall.
And I have tried several time to get the throttle to lock up again and as of yet haven't been able to get it to. So anyone have any ideas?
Everything was new as I have only had the car on the road for less then 100 miles after i restored it.
 
Check the driver's side motor mount.
 
Check the driver's side motor mount.

This. My 440 in my old Coronet did what you describe with a broken motor mount. The engine would "jump" up and to the passenger side causing the throttle to open up. It would smoke the tires if I didn't gently get going from a stop. You could literally see it hop up with the hood open and giving it light gas. So broken mount to the mounts not bolted in.
 
Thanks for the input I will check them but they are brand new.
How do I check them in the car?
 
What do you mean by pulling over center?
 

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Here are a couple of shots I just took.
I sure hope this will help?
 

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Looks fine but...... You could try to put a jack with a piece of wood (to spread the pressure) under the oil pan and lift slowly, if a mount is broke it will lift away on that side.
 
Kickdown binding? Is that a Lokar cable I see...I believe over center means the throttle lever pulls past the springs Horizontal so when you let it off, the spring holds it as its already on the rebound. I bit a radiator with my fan once, it was a crappy flex fan too close to the radiator. A bad motor mount will let the fan hit the top tank, then bend and take the core out. Man, that sux.
 
The mount looks okay, and I think I can see the lower nut peeking thru a gap.

To test the mount, open the hood, sit behind the wheel, start the engine, left foot firmly on the brake, emergency on, put into gear, and give it some gas, you will see the driver's side of the engine try to lift, if the motor lifts more than an inch or so, or jumps 3 or 4 inches, the mount or fasteners are faulty..

NOTE, remember where the ignition key is, to shut it off if it ever runs wild again.. and try not to put it in neutral before shutting the engine off,, or you could blow the engine when it over-revs.. ! ! !
 
The mount looks okay, and I think I can see the lower nut peeking thru a gap.

To test the mount, open the hood, sit behind the wheel, start the engine, left foot firmly on the brake, emergency on, put into gear, and give it some gas, you will see the driver's side of the engine try to lift, if the motor lifts more than an inch or so, or jumps 3 or 4 inches, the mount or fasteners are faulty..

NOTE, remember where the ignition key is, to shut it off if it ever runs wild again.. and try not to put it in neutral before shutting the engine off,, or you could blow the engine when it over-revs.. ! ! !

^^This and the motor doesn't have to move much at all to push the cable forward. Don't be surprised if you new mount is faulty and the rubber has separated from he metal.

Secondly, does your linkage and everything clear the air cleaner?
 
Secondly, does your linkage and everything clear the air cleaner?
OOh, good call! The drop base air cleaners are clocked, meaning there are strategic cutouts down there to clear choke and throttle linkage. Perhaps a kill switch is in your future. Wire it off your coil - and run it to ground. when its "killed" (closed), the negative coil side is dragged to ground and will no longer fire the plugs. Piece of mind.....
 
Side view of the carb linkage is needed. The pull point looks too close to the shaft. That will cause the "over center" condition mentioned. Meaning the return spring is trying to pull directly across the shaft axis or below and has no advantage.
 
Hey sorry for being out of pocket I have had to work 12 hr days, I haven't had a chance to look at anything but I will hopefully tomorrow night.
I do have a Lokar system in the car, I have a drop air cleaner but I checked all that and everything seems to be clear with no binding.
I was wondering if the torque of the engine might stretch the cable to make it stick.
If it is an over center condition how can I correct it?
I do have another question can you reuse a fan that has one blade was bent and twisted into the radiator? I was running a factory 7 blade fan when one of the blades bent up into the radiator. I am not sure I want to run it again but thought I would ask before I go looking for another fan.
 
Ok update I got everything back together I have checked the motor mount no issues there.
I took it for a test drive and couldn't get to lock up at all. So not sure what happened or why.
Thanks for all the input and will keep an eye out to see if it comes back
 
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