Importance of PCV and what happens without it.

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Inertia

Inertia

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Here's some pix of a new 440 stroker with about a dozen dyno runs, and maybe 20 miles on the road, getting home, then to my shop for final assembly and tune.

I was amazed at a few things on this "professionally" built engine, one was no PCV. Take a look at the underside of the valve covers I took off to adjust the valves. All that non-shiny stuff is condensation on the valve cover, and elsewhere you can bet. This is the same goop member Cannucky found inside his engine, with no PCV.

There was some serious valve noise, I discovered a backed-off adjuster that wiped out a rocker and broke the adjuster. Here's what I found used as pushrods, 5 would appear to be hemi solid lifter pushrods too big to even fit in the lifter, the 5 adjuster were about 1/2 inch proud of the others.

What valve train geometry you ask,, to be continued..

So if you think you don't need a PCV, think again, and if you're gonna get an engine built, get ready to tear it down to have it checked, unless it's from one of our sponsors of coarse.

hope it helps
 

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inertia said:
Here's some pix of a new 440 stroker with about a dozen dyno runs, and maybe 20 miles on the road, getting home, then to my shop for final assembly and tune.

I was amazed at a few things on this "professionally" built engine, one was no PCV. Take a look at the underside of the valve covers I took off to adjust the valves. All that non-shiny stuff is condensation on the valve cover, and elsewhere you can bet. This is the same goop member Cannucky found inside his engine, with no PCV.

There was some serious valve noise, I discovered a backed-off adjuster that wiped out a rocker and broke the adjuster. Here's what I found used as pushrods, 5 would appear to be hemi solid lifter pushrods too big to even fit in the lifter, the 5 adjuster were about 1/2 inch proud of the others.

What valve train geometry you ask,, to be continued..

So if you think you don't need a PCV, think again, and if you're gonna get an engine built, get ready to tear it down to have it checked, unless it's from one of our sponsors of coarse.

hope it helps
Click to expand...

Ya, have seen that a few times but I don`t run one on my 9-second n/a 470 BB and never have that problem BUT, I live in Calif and you are in Canada.............
 
Using a pcv is NOT going to solve condensation i use one and have that white gunk on the underside of my valve covers every spring after sitting from the off season..
 
I agree you need a PCV but you have more issues than that.

What's with the mismatched pushrods?

I like those rockers but I'd almost bet you also have geometry issues.
 
Yeah I still see some condensation with the pvc on mine now but not as much as before and never as bad as the goo in that pic , mine has always been wet like it doesn't mix with the synthetic oil to form that goo you see here , I'll withhold comment regarding what may or may not have been done by the person that installed the motor and tuned it originally before it was brought back to you to deal with .
 
Less than long warm-ups will do that, A ton of condensation on all those metal parts, It takes a long time to burn off all that condensation.
I have two old trucks. Mine and my wife's. Her commute was 20 miles, mine was several blocks with short trips here and there.
I put a motor in mine at 140000 and probably 4 new mufflers.
Hers has 240000 and going strong. I still has the original muffler.
 
I forget what the temperature is......180 I THINK. but if it does not operate at X temperature for X amount of time, all the moisture will not be boiled out of the oil and you will get what you are experiencing. This is why short trips are not good for cars.
 
I used to think it was the fabricated aluminum valve covers in my case , I find it leaves streaks in the synthetic oil I run instead of mixing in and getting creamy.The thing that gets me is everybody looked at me like I was speaking swahili when I said I wanted to add an inline seperator to remove it from the vapor .
 
RustyRatRod said:
I forget what the temperature is......180 I THINK. but if it does not operate at X temperature for X amount of time, all the moisture will not be boiled out of the oil and you will get what you are experiencing. This is why short trips are not good for cars.
Click to expand...

^ this, and also why thermostats shouldn't be cooler than 180 and SHOULD be used. But hey, all those that run without them or run 160 stats on the street help keep the demand for new parts alive, helping the rest of us out with cheaper prices (sometimes) :D
 
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