AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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- Jan 19, 2014
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What if the pushrod ends are a little too big for the sockets?
What if the pushrod ends are a little too big for the sockets?
So far you've all missed the target so to speak about the viscosity ratings on Multi-weight Oils. Some are closer than others.
Years ago you had single weight oils, SAE 10, SAE 20, SAE 30...(you get the idea). The higher number the thicker the oil. Lower # for thinner oil. Thinner oils for winter & thicker (higher#)for summer. Along came the Multi-Weight oils, 10w-30, 20w-50, 5w-30 etc. The 1st # represents the oils viscosity characteristics in cold temp. It is a comparative #. So in other words a 10w-30 oil will flow like straight weight SAE 10 in cold weather. The 2nd # represents the oil's viscosity at higher temperatures. So again it's a comparative #. The same 10w-30 oil would flow like a straight weight SAE 30 at higher temperatures. 20w-50 flows like an SAE 20 in cold & an SAE 50 in warm temp.
It's like having 2 different grades available in your crankcase at the same time. Or you can think of it as bipolar if you like!
And the "W" does stand for WINTER.
The tests are done at specific temperatures for the higher # and the lower #. It doesn't directly mean weather the engine is warmed up or not.
So if you took 3 separate bottles of motor oil, SAE 10, SAE 10w-30 & SAE 30 and ran them all individually through a viscosity meter at the same temperature(say room temp) you'd get 3 different viscosity readings.
Have I confused the s**t outta everybody yet?
So far you've all missed the target so to speak about the viscosity ratings on Multi-weight Oils. Some are closer than others.
Years ago you had single weight oils, SAE 10, SAE 20, SAE 30...(you get the idea). The higher number the thicker the oil. Lower # for thinner oil. Thinner oils for winter & thicker (higher#)for summer. Along came the Multi-Weight oils, 10w-30, 20w-50, 5w-30 etc. The 1st # represents the oils viscosity characteristics in cold temp. It is a comparative #. So in other words a 10w-30 oil will flow like straight weight SAE 10 in cold weather. The 2nd # represents the oil's viscosity at higher temperatures. So again it's a comparative #. The same 10w-30 oil would flow like a straight weight SAE 30 at higher temperatures. 20w-50 flows like an SAE 20 in cold & an SAE 50 in warm temp.
It's like having 2 different grades available in your crankcase at the same time. Or you can think of it as bipolar if you like!
And the "W" does stand for WINTER.
The tests are done at specific temperatures for the higher # and the lower #. It doesn't directly mean weather the engine is warmed up or not.
So if you took 3 separate bottles of motor oil, SAE 10, SAE 10w-30 & SAE 30 and ran them all individually through a viscosity meter at the same temperature(say room temp) you'd get 3 different viscosity readings.
Have I confused the s**t outta everybody yet?
The W = winter thing is a misnomer. Your ou can say it means winter if it helps you remember that its what the oil flows cold. Not just in winter. Before the W is what it flows cold. After the W is what it flows at operating temp. That simple.
Let's all remember. It's not necessarily cold when it's winter.
That's as much as I'll hijack this thread on oil and viscosity.
As for your oiling problem. It doesn't really sound like there is one. The heavier weight oil may be only slightly more pressure than a lower oil. If you're that worried about it. You could try running a 10W30. This is what I run and it's a good oil for our wild Alberta temperature swings. Bring it up to temp. See what your pushing then. You may be surprised. This will be the only way to see if there is a problem in my mind.
Viscosity does not INCREASE with temperature, it DECREASES (gets thinner and pours easier...)
Have you ever tried to change the oil when the engine is cold???
What about when it's hot???
Does the oil drain faster when it's cold or hot??? :scratch:
If you have the standard cam bearings which are not grooved, and no groove on the cam journals, you will have the 'timed' or interrupted' oil flow to the heads. If this is the case, and if you primed with the cam holes lined up so that one head was getting oil, then the observations above are pretty meaningless for actual engine operation, where the head is getting oil pressure only about 5% of the time.When I was priming the motor before installing it, the pushrods would be so flooded with oil they would have about a 1/4 of oil thickness going down along them. The springs were flooded with oil too. The oil would make the spring look solid if that makes sense. I mean everything is definitely getting oil up top! lol