Reading the temperature gauge

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jboyd2

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Can someone tell me what temperatures the tick marks on this temperature gauge represents?
 

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Anything above the middle is a "little warm" and left of the middle is a "little cool."
 
Maybe approximately 160 - 210? I'm trying to calibrate a fan controller using these tick marks.
 
.........Not........going......to........happen.

Invest in a thermometer. Those guages were never "really" calibrated, nor accurate
 
Can someone tell me what temperatures the tick marks on this temperature gauge represents?


I run a mechanical temp gauge (like a thermometer basically) and a thermostatic controller for the fan.
Not a big deal at all really but since they agree with each other on the temps it makes it kind of a verification that is nice.

The thermostat for the fan comes on at 210 according to the settings on it, and when the fan comes on the gauge says 210 on the nose.

There is no way you will do anything but guess until you can verify temps in degrees.

Now I get to mess with you a little. :D
 

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The 3 little dots at bottom of screen are the factory calibration targets. I could go to the book and report what temp that middle dot ( 23 ohms ) represents. Those targets cant be seen once the gauge is installed though.
If it helps, when the gauge was new, the first heavy hash mark ( shown as "pretty good" above ) is 34 ohms, approx' 180 degrees, and where OEM thermostats begin to function.
 
Get an aftermarket temp gauge... and mount it permanently...
 
I run a mechanical temp gauge (like a thermometer basically) and a thermostatic controller for the fan.
Not a big deal at all really but since they agree with each other on the temps it makes it kind of a verification that is nice.

The thermostat for the fan comes on at 210 according to the settings on it, and when the fan comes on the gauge says 210 on the nose.

There is no way you will do anything but guess until you can verify temps in degrees.

Now I get to mess with you a little. :D
that's exactly what you have - cold (or not working)/ all good / going up hill pulling a trailer on a hot day/ OH CRAP!! PULL OVER! my wife got me one of those Lazer heat guns, verified my gage.
 
Get one of these. They are slick.
 

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There is no way you will do anything but guess until you can verify temps in degrees.
Now I get to mess with you a little.
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:D

Actually your assessment of "calibration" is quite good!!
 
The 3 little dots at bottom of screen are the factory calibration targets. I could go to the book and report what temp that middle dot ( 23 ohms ) represents. Those targets cant be seen once the gauge is installed though.
If it helps, when the gauge was new, the first heavy hash mark ( shown as "pretty good" above ) is 34 ohms, approx' 180 degrees, and where OEM thermostats begin to function.

Thanks for the info. It prompts a few more questions. If the center dot equals 23 ohms and the first heavy mark is 34 ohms ~180º, then what are the temp and ohm values of the other two dots for a new gauge , per the book? In your experience, as the systems age, do they tend to read cooler or hotter than they did when they were new? How do I test the temperature sensor and what sort of resistance value should be expected? (i.e. How do I know if the temp sensor is good?) Is there a difference between a senor for an idiot light and a gauge? How can I tell which one is which?
 
Thanks for the replies so far. I was afraid that would be the answers I would get. I'm installing electric fans and using the Pac 2750 as the fan controller. I'm trying to map the controller to my temperature sender by programming temperatures in based on the tick marks on the standard gauge. Assuming the standard gauge is operating correctly, I assume the marks represent some predetermined temperature. I may have to use the temperature selection on my Fluke to verify and calibrate the controller.

Trailbeast that's how it usually goes.
 
Redfish, good info. If you have more information on what the middle dot and the others represent, I'd love to know.
 
Thanks for the replies so far. I was afraid that would be the answers I would get. I'm installing electric fans and using the Pac 2750 as the fan controller. I'm trying to map the controller to my temperature sender by programming temperatures in based on the tick marks on the standard gauge. Assuming the standard gauge is operating correctly, I assume the marks represent some predetermined temperature. I may have to use the temperature selection on my Fluke to verify and calibrate the controller.

Trailbeast that's how it usually goes.

Yea, you'll be ahead if you shoot it with a temp gun or something like that and set your controller with that if you are determined to do it without an actual temp gauge.
These old parts vary quite a bit after all these years (especially electrical)

BTW, and idiot light uses an on/off switch type system that turns the dash light on at a single given temp, and a gauge like you posted the pic of uses a varied resistance voltage.
You can determine the difference between the senders with a simple resistance type meter.
Or, you can usually tell because senders for gauges are usually somewhat bigger in size.
 
I calibrated my gauge to the water temperature (205). I had to bend the thingy to make it line up where I wanted it to be. So now I know exactly where "normal" is.... And nothing else.But really, that's all I need to know.

I did the same to my gas gauge.When it hits "E", I have about 2 liters left.So E really means EMPTY! Cuz 2 liters is like 2 US quarts. I can barely drive around the block on that!
 
I can't give away all the info I have on these S-W for Chrysler instruments. Paid too much for it.
 
I always considered the two heavier bars indicate normal operating range depending on ambient temps. As to what those translate to in degrees I yield to redfish....
 
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