Overheating during cam break in

Overheating during cam break in - help

mflynn said
thanks for all the advice. I'll be back at it tonight. Based on the suggestion, here's the plan:

1). I'm going to take the stat out altogether for now, but drill the hole in it for when it goes back in after break in.
2). Fill the block through filler neck with coolant mixture, then the rad, then monitor during break in and fill as necessary
3). Get an IR gun at Harborfreight and use that to monitor heat (BTW: rewired the whole car as part of the build, having issues with the temp gauge - so I intend on having one, just not working as I had hoped right now - problem for another day, although I think it has someth to do Witt he instrument panel voltage resistor, so long as the IR gun gives me what I need for the break in which is my BIG concern right now)
4) mist the rad during break in
5). Set the idle jets a little richer and set the bowls a little higher, check bowls if I can during break in
6). Advance timing to 34 BTC at 2500 RPM (or thereabouts)

As to #6, although I have not checked timing while engine was running, I did rotate the crank just after we put the motor back in the car, and got #1 cylinder to TDC - at that point the timing mark was right at 10 BTC, which is exactly what the factory specs call for. I'm guessing that (a) the mark lining up at rest means little when it comes to actual timing and (b) the factory spec is worthless given the top end modifications? Comments/thoughts appreciated.

2 and 4 are not necessary, but having a garden hose ready nearby has saved my bacon a time or two.. 1) is an ok idea. 4) the IR gun is a great idea, 5a) there are no idle jets, 5b) the fuel level will be ok for break-in, anywhere in the bottom half of the window, or if no windows; at or near climbing out over the threads. For break-in this is not critical, so long as the float-valves control the fuel, and no flooding occurs, and 6) as earlier stated, just crank the dizzy to whatever she likes, soon after she fires up, this is not a panic. Leak checking is number one.
Then as to your last paragraph; this needs clarification. If you correctly determined the piston TDC with a piston stop, and the TDC mark truly was advanced 10*, then that damper is junk. Get rid of it before it comes apart. And you are correct, the factory timing barely applies to the factory engine. After the break-in is done, it will be up to you to determine how much timing the engine wants, and how to give it to her, and no more.