Hei Swap with Toyota Alternator

Don't overthink. In the factory diagram, see the bright blue? THAT IS "ignition run" as it was originally wired. Now, that will go to coil + AND to your HEI "hot" terminal.

If the Denso has an "ignition" excitation wire, then that should go to ignition run........same as the "new" coil +

1. As above, the IG alternator wire will connect to the car's blue ignition 1 wire that has 12v from the ignition switch when in RUN; the coil + and HEI hot will also connect to the blue wire to receive 12v in RUN.
2. The brown harness wire that provides 12v to the ignition system in the START position of the ignition switch will also have to connect to the blue wire, so that you have ignition power when cranking.
3. The S wire is probably best connected to the large stud terminal on the starter solenoid, where it will 'sense' the system voltage.
4. Completely eliminate the original Mopar regulator and the original ballast resistor. (If it is still there.)
5. If you have any issues with the alternator charging when you first start the car, and have to rev the motor to make it start charging, then you will likely have to connect the L wire through a resistor to the 12v system. The L wire normally goes to an idiot lamp in the dash to show if the charging system is working or not; that lamp does not exist in A body Mopars. The dash lamp connection is also sometimes used to help 'kickstart' the internal voltage regulator when you first fire up the engine. This is the case for some Delco and Denso alternators, but this may not be one of those. Just hook it up as in steps 1-4 and see how the charging system operates; it may be fine as is.