No Crank, No Lights, No Click, Battery Not Dead?
^^As the folks above have said^^
It is time to "dig in" and do some looking
First, do you have a factory shop manual? Posted many many times. Go to MyMopar and download one
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
There are factory wiring diagrams in section 8 of the manuals, but you can also download what are sometimes simplified diagrams from the same site
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=24
Take these aftermarket diagrams with a grain of salt.......they are sometimes not complete, (options) and sometimes leave out connectors, etc. There are sometimes easier to follow
Also READ this article
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
as well as the one on headlights
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
The ammeter article has a very informative simplified diagram, posted below This is a VERY good functional overview of factory wiring "path"
Follow along "the path." Each one of the points is a "point of failure" for losing power.
Battery clamps to battery posts, the cables themselves, and the eyelet connections
From battery to starter relay, make sure that cable and connections are good and clean and tight
From the starter relay the FUSIBLE LINK goes through a terminal in the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR. From there (RED) goes to AMMETER, through the ammeter, and out on BLACK.
Notice the WELDED SPLICE in the black wire. This is a factory splice in the black ammeter wire a few inches from the ammeter, up under the dash, taped up in the harness
From that splice branches out to the headlight switch, the fuse panel "hot" buss, and power to the ignition switch.
EVERY POINT in this circuit path is a point of FAILURE. Please READ that Mad article.
The likely suspects are all right there.........crappy battery connections / cables, fuse link, bulkhead connector, problems at the ammeter, and rare BUT HAS HAPPENED is failure of the welded splice!!!! In my lifetime, I've been involved with about 1/2 dozen cars in which that splice FAILED
^^As the folks above have said^^
It is time to "dig in" and do some looking
First, do you have a factory shop manual? Posted many many times. Go to MyMopar and download one
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
There are factory wiring diagrams in section 8 of the manuals, but you can also download what are sometimes simplified diagrams from the same site
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=24
Take these aftermarket diagrams with a grain of salt.......they are sometimes not complete, (options) and sometimes leave out connectors, etc. There are sometimes easier to follow
Also READ this article
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
as well as the one on headlights
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
The ammeter article has a very informative simplified diagram, posted below This is a VERY good functional overview of factory wiring "path"
Follow along "the path." Each one of the points is a "point of failure" for losing power.
Battery clamps to battery posts, the cables themselves, and the eyelet connections
From battery to starter relay, make sure that cable and connections are good and clean and tight
From the starter relay the FUSIBLE LINK goes through a terminal in the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR. From there (RED) goes to AMMETER, through the ammeter, and out on BLACK.
Notice the WELDED SPLICE in the black wire. This is a factory splice in the black ammeter wire a few inches from the ammeter, up under the dash, taped up in the harness
From that splice branches out to the headlight switch, the fuse panel "hot" buss, and power to the ignition switch.
EVERY POINT in this circuit path is a point of FAILURE. Please READ that Mad article.
The likely suspects are all right there.........crappy battery connections / cables, fuse link, bulkhead connector, problems at the ammeter, and rare BUT HAS HAPPENED is failure of the welded splice!!!! In my lifetime, I've been involved with about 1/2 dozen cars in which that splice FAILED
