(Body guys) Painting interior metal trim 67-71

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Sedanman

Sedanman

67-9 Valiant specialist
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What have some of you done for painting the metal interior trim. Did you use base coat/clear coat? Is the clear coat effected by body oil,salt,sweat when you have your arm on the door. The factory used enamel but it doesn't seem to be the right route anymore. I am having my car painted next week and I'm wondering if I should have them do the interior stuff in enamel instead of basecoat/clearcoat. I mentioned my concearns to him and he said he will have to locate a gun for spraying enamel because they used a different gun. Thanks for any input you can shed light on. I am having my a pillars,doors,b pillar and rear seat area redone and I only want to do it once and have it last.
 
I can tell you that I am using base/clear on my 1970 dart. I have also seen original paint wore off from oils/sweat so I would think try and keep your arm off of the door is my best advice. I cant answer what oil/sweat will do to base/clear. I have heard everything from spray bombs to Duplicolor ready to spray paint. whatever you decide, cant be wrong. For me, I just want it to look good and glossy like factory. I did my dash in satin and it turned out ok,spray bombs.
 
I used the trim black paint from AZ for my dash and it worked great. I am dropping the car off on Friday so I need to get this ironed out by then.
 
I am using single stage on the interior and under hood. May be a mistake, first restoration for me. Painting at home myself. So far the interior parts I have removed and painted really look great, but they have not been reinstalled as of yet. Good luck
 
I would think that a basecoat clearcoat along with a couple more coats of clear using automotive paint it would be bulletproof ..
 
Uhhhh your sweat wears paint off? Maybe a shower and some lava soap is in order?

Base/clear would be fine... spraying enamel wouldn't really require a different paint gun but perhaps a different needle and fluid tip... I would imagine he should have plenty of different choices as far as paint guns... any "sealer" or "primer" gun set up will spray enamel with no problems...
 
Also it would make a difference if he is spraying a solid color vs. a metallic? If it's a metallic single stage and your sweat melted the paint off it would disturb the metallic's in that area of wear.
 
My car gets driven daily and I work hard for my money so I get dirty and I sweat and rest my arm on the door. I'm guessing you've never seen the wear or rust spots on door tops before.
 
Sedanman said:
My car gets driven daily and I work hard for my money so I get dirty and I sweat and rest my arm on the door. I'm guessing you've never seen the wear or rust spots on door tops before.
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Oh I've seen it I just didn't know it was from toxic under arm sweat
 
I was thinking about Duplicolor ready to spray paint. I think it is lacquer. Sold at autozone. They have a clear to go over it also
 
I don't believe the duplicolor spray cans hold up nearly as well as using a spray gun and regular paint. It doesn't seem thick enough or something. If you have access to a compressor and paint gun, once you mix the paint, it is as easy as a spray can
 
I use base/clear on inner door frames. I think some of the wear you've seen are from many things. Abrasive clothing is can be and probably some of the worst reasons... would you wipe you car off with a denim shirt? I believe we are a bit more mindful of these things after going through the expense of painting our cherished cars. Not to mention this wear did happen over a period of time and not over night. Enamel paint doesn't have the durability of today's paint. I understand your thought, but I wouldn't over think it.
 
back in 2007 I painted my convertible. At which point the inside of the doors were sprayed with base coat/clear coat. It has been on the road every summer since 2008 and I put about 3000 miles per year. It only gets driven on the nice days but got caught in the rain more than once. The paint has held up extremely well. Every year I use spray on wax on the exposed interior painted surfaces. Holds up nice
 
Sedanman said:
What have some of you done for painting the metal interior trim. Did you use base coat/clear coat? Is the clear coat effected by body oil,salt,sweat when you have your arm on the door. The factory used enamel but it doesn't seem to be the right route anymore. I am having my car painted next week and I'm wondering if I should have them do the interior stuff in enamel instead of basecoat/clearcoat. I mentioned my concearns to him and he said he will have to locate a gun for spraying enamel because they used a different gun. Thanks for any input you can shed light on. I am having my a pillars,doors,b pillar and rear seat area redone and I only want to do it once and have it last.
Click to expand...
I use base/clear. I use a flatting agent in the clear. PS you don't need a different gun for enamel. at least I never did
 
The parts I am having painted were semi gloss black from the factory.
 
Sedanman said:
The parts I am having painted were semi gloss black from the factory.
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what you do is the more flatting clear you use the more flat it is. When you get the flatting clear they will print you out a sheet with instructions. It will tell how to get it semi gloss, flat, egg shell, semi flat.
 
Be aware that if you use a flattening agent in a clear or a flat clear that excessive wear or rubbing will actually polish a flat clear and make it shiny in those spots only.... add some sweat and I don't think you'll like the result.
 
I used epoxy appliance paint. My mistake was using a high gloss. Every finger print shows. Should have had a custom color/sheen mixed.
 
Skin oils can and do break down interior thermo-set enamels fairly quickly because they were never designed to withstand chemical contaminants. Skin oils can also break down 2K urethane products but it takes much longer. Regular or periodic cleaning will help the longevity of any paint finish.

The heavy transportation refinish industry uses paint systems such mono-coat 2K products that will endure the skin oils and surface abrasion much better than most aftermarket automotive refinish products including the 2K base/clear systems. Because these paint systems are designed to withstand constant diesel fuel baths, greases, brake fluid, hydraulic oil, battery acid, wiper anti-freeze, caustic truck washes, and other nasty chemicals associated with class 8 and above transport trucks.
 
Rhino Line the farkkin interior side of the doors. Done.
 
Hi, just my 2 bits worth....I am a tech rep for a paint manufacturer.
Basecoat with a clear coat is the way to go. Depending which part of the states you live in products vary due to voc regulations. Basecoat sometimes uses a polyester material and then is top coated with a urathane clear coat which is pretty tuff stuff. Once the clear is cured there is not much will affect it other than say brake fluid. No chemicals omit from the product once it's cured. Nice thing with base coat clear coat is that you will not risk the chance of wearing out the color if you polish or wax it, where with an enamel there is no protection and you are wearing done the paint layer. Flatteners in the clears tend to have the issue of getting shiney if you wipe or rub them. What works good if you want a little less shine without flattener is to us an ambient air dry clear or use a faster hardener or reducer in the clear and it will usually dieback to the required shine.
 
Posts 6, 7, 9 and 18 all come from a PROFESSIONAL painter who paints for a livin every farkkin day. I would listen. Deadgummit, these type threads get old.
 
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