Air conditioning options?
I bolted up the Volare Sanden brackets today and GAMoparMan's photos really helped. Actually, I did pull the Saginaw pump and brackets from the 78 Volare. Clearance in my narrower 64 Valiant is a concern. See the Sharpie lines where I will cut to give ~1" clearance to the battery. The p.s. pump hits the frame rail at about the 1/2 swing point, so might have to get a 2" shorter belt. You can't see that the p.s. brackets have a strut that attaches to 2 holes on the block's p.s. pad. The compressor can swing thru the full slot. My SD7H14 Sanden measures 3.25" between the inside of the ears (where brackets attach). 3 other Sanden's I have all measured the same. One is a 5 bolt (5 piston, i.e. 508), the rest 6-bolt (7 piston). I think H15's measure the same, but an H13 I have is ~1" shorter (use in my 1985 M-B). The Volare w.p. pulley is shown. The 64 pulley has an ever so slight lip past the V-groove that almost drags on the AC idler pulley. The idler's purpose is for the belt to clear the w.p., which it might w/ compressor full forward, but not at full-out position.
Note the two struts to the intake manifold bolt, one slotted. They are missing in GAMoparMan's, but (unlike me) he does have that bolt at the spring bracket. Probably only EGR intake manifolds have it, as I show for 2 aluminum ones I have. My 64 cast iron does not, nor does a 4 bbl Offy intake I have. A drill/tap could fix that, or a custom U-bracket. One might do better by fabb'ing a strut to the lifting hole on top of the head (as RV2 brackets do).
Clearance depends on how your engine sits on the mounts. "As found" my distributor was right against the inner fender, due both to a sagged R mount and a bent engine bracket. Photo shows current "as fixed" clearance on R side, so compare to yours. My intake manifold is level, which I expect is correct. Slants tend to sag with time, so the AC bracket clearance will increase, if anything. I also hope that in 10 yrs smaller batteries will be available, so the issue may disappear. Some hobbyists are using small super-capacitors today.
Next, I'll remove the brackets and paint. I then want to see if the Sanden-York adapter shown can be installed at the p.s. pad on the block, as Syed did (earlier photos). His 64 Dart is right-hand drive (Malaysia), so pulleys differ. My Valiant is currently manual steering, so if this works, the Volare brackets be for a later change to p.s. (if daughter drives car). One issue is that the York adapter doesn't swing much in the direction to tension the belt.
Finally more pulley info I uncovered. The alt-w.p. belt always runs on the damper pulley. All factory slant AC setups had a single AC belt that runs on a crank pulley inside the damper. This inner pulley has a wide hole to fit over the timing belt cover's snout. It attaches w/ 3 bolts, and you must remove the damper to install it. A pwr steering pulley bolts to the outside of the damper (giving 3 crank grooves total), and bolts to the remaining 3 damper holes. A photo from slantsix.org shows this (p.s. pulley should be flipped over). That photo does show the lip that I ground thinner on the Volare pulley to slide easier inside the damper hole, but today I found a 64 p.s. crank pulley I stashed, and it is identical w/ same lip, so one is supposed to force it in w/ the bolts.
65 Dartman, Thanks, I sent you a PM (assuming that is what "conversation" means in the new site software).
I bolted up the Volare Sanden brackets today and GAMoparMan's photos really helped. Actually, I did pull the Saginaw pump and brackets from the 78 Volare. Clearance in my narrower 64 Valiant is a concern. See the Sharpie lines where I will cut to give ~1" clearance to the battery. The p.s. pump hits the frame rail at about the 1/2 swing point, so might have to get a 2" shorter belt. You can't see that the p.s. brackets have a strut that attaches to 2 holes on the block's p.s. pad. The compressor can swing thru the full slot. My SD7H14 Sanden measures 3.25" between the inside of the ears (where brackets attach). 3 other Sanden's I have all measured the same. One is a 5 bolt (5 piston, i.e. 508), the rest 6-bolt (7 piston). I think H15's measure the same, but an H13 I have is ~1" shorter (use in my 1985 M-B). The Volare w.p. pulley is shown. The 64 pulley has an ever so slight lip past the V-groove that almost drags on the AC idler pulley. The idler's purpose is for the belt to clear the w.p., which it might w/ compressor full forward, but not at full-out position.
Note the two struts to the intake manifold bolt, one slotted. They are missing in GAMoparMan's, but (unlike me) he does have that bolt at the spring bracket. Probably only EGR intake manifolds have it, as I show for 2 aluminum ones I have. My 64 cast iron does not, nor does a 4 bbl Offy intake I have. A drill/tap could fix that, or a custom U-bracket. One might do better by fabb'ing a strut to the lifting hole on top of the head (as RV2 brackets do).
Clearance depends on how your engine sits on the mounts. "As found" my distributor was right against the inner fender, due both to a sagged R mount and a bent engine bracket. Photo shows current "as fixed" clearance on R side, so compare to yours. My intake manifold is level, which I expect is correct. Slants tend to sag with time, so the AC bracket clearance will increase, if anything. I also hope that in 10 yrs smaller batteries will be available, so the issue may disappear. Some hobbyists are using small super-capacitors today.
Next, I'll remove the brackets and paint. I then want to see if the Sanden-York adapter shown can be installed at the p.s. pad on the block, as Syed did (earlier photos). His 64 Dart is right-hand drive (Malaysia), so pulleys differ. My Valiant is currently manual steering, so if this works, the Volare brackets be for a later change to p.s. (if daughter drives car). One issue is that the York adapter doesn't swing much in the direction to tension the belt.
Finally more pulley info I uncovered. The alt-w.p. belt always runs on the damper pulley. All factory slant AC setups had a single AC belt that runs on a crank pulley inside the damper. This inner pulley has a wide hole to fit over the timing belt cover's snout. It attaches w/ 3 bolts, and you must remove the damper to install it. A pwr steering pulley bolts to the outside of the damper (giving 3 crank grooves total), and bolts to the remaining 3 damper holes. A photo from slantsix.org shows this (p.s. pulley should be flipped over). That photo does show the lip that I ground thinner on the Volare pulley to slide easier inside the damper hole, but today I found a 64 p.s. crank pulley I stashed, and it is identical w/ same lip, so one is supposed to force it in w/ the bolts.
